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Just picked up a rev 3


durham4416
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As title, just bought a 2003 270cc rev3, it's a good clean bike and seems mechanically spot on, just a few questions, iv read about the water pump casing, can some one point me in the right direction to check this or a link to a workshop manual would be great, also the front brake is very weak, I'm gunna pull the pads out and see if they have maybes glazed over or I need to bleed the brake, iv only had a little play on the front but the pickup dos t seem very quick and one last thing what year mudguards will for an 03 model, I'd liketo freshen it up a bit and where the best place for plastics and stickers, thanks in advance for any help

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As title, just bought a 2003 270cc rev3, it's a good clean bike and seems mechanically spot on, just a few questions, iv read about the water pump casing, can some one point me in the right direction to check this or a link to a workshop manual would be great, also the front brake is very weak, I'm gunna pull the pads out and see if they have maybes glazed over or I need to bleed the brake, iv only had a little play on the front but the pickup dos t seem very quick and one last thing what year mudguards will for an 03 model, I'd liketo freshen it up a bit and where the best place for plastics and stickers, thanks in advance for any help

Mudguards up to 06 should fit. 07 on won't. Lampkins direct or BVM offer pretty much next day service. Be warned though, they are not cheap.

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When you say pick up doesn't seem very quick I assume you mean engine revs. Pull the throttle grip rubber back and if the twist grip is black it's had a slow throttle fitted, if it's white it's a fast throttle.

I fitted a slow throttle (black) to my rev3 to steady it down....worked a treat just took the edge of it nicely. :thumbup:

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It is White plastic with a blank rubber liner, the front brake lever is coming back to the bar, are they a pain to bleed?

The front brake is not a pain to bleed but it's easy to bleed brakes wrong

First remove the caliper and push the piston all the way into the caliper

Often if there is a bubble at the top (gravity makes this happen) the bubble will be pushed into the master and problem solved, if the bubble is in the caliper there is no room for it so it can be bled through

Then just bleed the system as per normal and you should have a firm lever feel

Never let the master go dry, just bleed it low and clean the reservoir with a Kleenex and refill, it's a total pain if you suck air at the master cyl

If you have problems just pump the brake pads together and then pry them back apart pushing the fluid back to the master, tap the lines etc, remember bubbles sit at the top of things and don't overflow the master when pushing the piston in

Edited by 0007
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Cool I'll give it a try tomorrow, just a few other things, sorry to be a pain, iv read the horror stories of the stators and water pump casing, I'm learning more by looking through the forum, but seen that people take something off after riding to let it dry out, do you take the flywheel cover off and then what, also to check the water pump casing hasn't holed do I just drain the oil and pull the cover off to check it, I'm more used to four strokes but looking forward to tinkering with my new bike :)

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Don't worry about the stator if it's running OK. I damaged mine through abuse and ignorance....a little knowledge is a dangerous thing :dunce: ......and got it fixed for 45 quid by West Country Windings (am I allowed to advertise? If not sorry Mr admin). They repaired it based on what was needed. Mine just wanted one coil rewinding. Did a great job and turned it around in a week.. :thumbup:

Edited by The_Oil_Baron
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Some people used to take the fly wheel cover off and leave it off for a day or so after every ride/wash and then spray with wd40 or something similar. I wouldn't worry about the water pump casing if it's not leaking. Just check it when you next put new coolant in. That's what I would do anyway.

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