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Sherco Brakes... Spongy.


comerconstructionman
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Hi All, problem with my 290s brakes. Front and rear pads are brand new due to the brakes being a bit spongy but they still are no way as sharp as they shouls be. The brakes on my KTM 350-F are like lightening, really tight. The disks are solid so would they be better with wavey disks...?

N

Edited by comerconstructionman
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Seems to me most all brake pads start out a bit soft and lacking. This is primarily due to the non asbestos materials used now days and the things require some thermal cycling to firm up and work well.

I usually perform 2-3 good hard stops from a good high speed run in 5th gear to warm them, then let them cool and resume normal operation. Do this 2-3 times to thermocycle them, then on a final trip do the same to get them and the disk good and hot and douse them with a water bottle to steam off. Different pads may take longer to firm up, and tyou do not want to overheat them as they are then ruined!

The stock Galfer pads seem the quickest in dry weather, a bit nil when wet, while the Braking pads seem good in the dry and seem to perform well in the wet. :thumbup:

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I have to say the brakes on my Serco are pretty spongy as well. (they aren't new pads) I have tried every bleeding method i know. The regular way, pulling through with a syringe, tying the lever back over night , tapping the brake line to get the bubbles out and the front is still not up to scratch. I was going to post this anyway, and sorry for the thread hijack, but anyone have some suggestions?

P.S when I do bleed them no air comes out, and it's the front that has the problem

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Hi All, problem with my 290s brakes. Front and rear pads are brand new due to the brakes being a bit spongy but they still are no way as sharp as they shouls be. The brakes on my KTM 350-F are like lightening, really tight. The disks are solid so would they be better with wavey disks...?

N

Solid disks make me think 2 Year 2000 to 2005 (just guessing) time period. Mine is a 2000 I had horrible front brakes for a long time, I tried bleeding (many times) new pads (heat cycling), master cylinder rebuild, and new hose. When I did a rebuild (seals and pistons) of the front caliper my front brakes became AWESOME!!

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Its an 2010 bike thats not had much use before I brought it shouldnt the master cylinder seals and pistons still be ok...?

I did not realize they went back to a solid disk, thought when they went wavy they stayed wavy. I would think the seals and pistons should be ok. But stranger things and all that.

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I did not realize they went back to a solid disk, thought when they went wavy they stayed wavy. I would think the seals and pistons should be ok. But stranger things and all that.

The disks arnt sold they are vented but not wavey... do you think wavey disks will help then Zippy or will they make no difference at all.?

Edited by comerconstructionman
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The disks arnt sold they are vented but not wavey... do you think wavey disks will help then Zippy or will they make no difference at all.?

Personally no I don't think there is any difference in the grab of solid, vented or wavy discs when all are clean and dry. my opinion is the vented and wavy discs allow water and such to easily find its way out of the area between the pad and disc. I may be in error about that but that is what I think at the moment.

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Mmmmm sounds like its not the disks then...more investigating needed.

The wavy disks on some earlier modes tend to squeal badly. Non of this has anything to do with stopping ability.

Seems to me if you have decent initial pressure build in the levers things have little to do with the master cyl's, although I suppose one could have some sticky pistons in the calipers, yet still seems unlikely in the newer bike.

Have you done the thermo cycling and proper dousing with water yet? Many times this works wonders! Mind you the dousing could require a few tries, then let them dry.

:rolleyes:

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