cabby Posted December 19, 2011 Report Share Posted December 19, 2011 Just been out to the shed to find my beta 270 has leaked gear box oil all over the floor ?? Had a play on it on Saturday but it's never leaked oil before now or at least before Saturday. Any thoughts, theories or guesses on possible cause ??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outlaw dave Posted December 19, 2011 Report Share Posted December 19, 2011 Did you overfill it? Could also be the sidecase gasket - there is a bolt at the bottom hidden by the rubber buffer, that often gets missed when doing maintenance - you need to drop the bashplate to access it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cabby Posted December 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2011 Like I say, it's been fine up til the weekend, never leaked a drop before and haven't changed the oil for at least a month. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outlaw dave Posted December 20, 2011 Report Share Posted December 20, 2011 Check that the crankcase breather isn't plugged with mud. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cabby Posted December 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2011 (edited) Check that the crankcase breather isn't plugged with mud. Nope they are fine. Just had a quick look and seems to be seeping out from behind the casing, Crackcase gasket possibly ?? Edited December 20, 2011 by Thedbf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bazza1 Posted December 20, 2011 Report Share Posted December 20, 2011 hi,check your coolant level, these bikes are prone to the clutch housing going pourus around the water pump shaft, if this is the case the oil will appear to be a milky colour. coolant can enter into the gearbox causing it to overfill and come out of the breather. you can remove the small housing with the 3 allen screws and have a look behind the water pump impellor to confirm this . hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cabby Posted December 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2011 ye thanks fella, I am aware of that issue, though this is spewing out uncontaminated atf. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leggins Posted December 20, 2011 Report Share Posted December 20, 2011 Hi, I had the same problem with my rev3. I replaced the outer casing gasket ( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cabby Posted December 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2011 Hi, I had the same problem with my rev3. I replaced the outer casing gasket ( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leggins Posted December 20, 2011 Report Share Posted December 20, 2011 (edited) I'm suspecting it may well be said gasket, though foned Lampkins today and he said that it wasn't common, and I didn't know the bash plate has to be removed....oh dear. Its not a big job mate, took me 30 mins tops,There is a casing bolton the underside which means the plate has to be removed, when removing the last bolt on the plate just be careful as they can fly out and go missing ( as mine did )!!! Edited December 20, 2011 by leggins Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
overdale Posted December 24, 2011 Report Share Posted December 24, 2011 This fault is more common than you think. If your bash plate is bent or slack, when you smack into or land on a rock, the bashplate bends upwards and knocks the clutch casing. This upwards knock causes the earlier old style paper gasket to move and so the oil drains out. Lucky you saw it before you ran the gearbox dry. Theychanged that gasket to a one with metal compressed between to layers of gasket material. This is stronger and less likely to come out. To do the casing gasket, as others say, you have to remove the bash plate, mabe even the exhaust front pipe to get access to the front bashplate bolt on the right hand side. If the bashplate is bent, there is going to be some tension in it, so slacken the front bolts but not completely out, then slacken the back until nearly out and using pipe pliers or mole grips hold the bashplate to the bottom of the frame next to the swinging arm linkage whilst removing the back bolts. To straighten the bashplate, compare it to a friends good one or just hammer the bent bits down straight on a wooden block. Keep trying it against the frame until it fits with hardly any tension to get the bolts in. To change the clutch casing gasket, drain the coolant and gearbox oil and lay the bike on the floor, right side down. Leaving the water hoses attached to the pump cover remove the 3 screws and tie the cover back out of the way. Take off the gear lever and kickstart, (no need to remove the circular clutch cover) then remove all the clutch casing socket screws. As someone said - make a cardboard drawing of the cover and put the removed screws through corresponding holes in the cardboard as some screws are different lengths. Tap the cover and jiggle to pull away from the engine whilst always pushing the kickstart and gearlever shaft back in towards the engine so that everything stays in place. Lift the cover off carefully as their maybe be shims stuck to the casing where the shafts went through. If so take them off and put over corresponding shafts. There are also two hollow circular dowels which align the cover, one front and one back, best to put them both in the engine side holes. Remove old gasket, fit new metalised gasket. Squarely mount clutch cover over shafts jiggling down carefully until ther is no gap. During this fitting, the water pump gear has to align with the crankshaft pinion, so as you lower the casing you may have to just move the water pump impeller a little to allow meshing of gears. Refit screws, etc. and water pump cover. Get bike upright, fill with 550cc of ATF, fill coolant, rocking bike from side to side to allow venting, take spark plug out and kick over engine to aid venting of pump and top up coolant. Leave rad cover off until you've run the engine for a while to fully vent the engine. Never let the bashplate get too bent on a Beta, and always check the screws are tight. Hope this helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cabby Posted December 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 24, 2011 Hope this helps Jeez, that was mighty, will get stuck in during the week, cheers fella Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.