mb4807 Posted December 20, 2011 Report Share Posted December 20, 2011 I've just bought a 2008 270 that I intend using for technical trail riding in the french alps and general playing. The bike could use fresh chain and sprockets soon, so I was wondering what gearing people might suggest? On the 11-41 setup it has now first feels really low and I'm not sure how much I'd use it. Anyway, if there is some accepted wisdom on what might work well I'd be pleased to hear it. I'm lucky enough to also have a spare rear weheel, so if I can find 2 sprocket combo's that can work on the same chain length but give 2 different sets of gearing, that might be good as a reasonably quick way to go from lower to higher gearing and back again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete_scorpa3 Posted December 20, 2011 Report Share Posted December 20, 2011 I've just bought a 2008 270 that I intend using for technical trail riding in the french alps and general playing. The bike could use fresh chain and sprockets soon, so I was wondering what gearing people might suggest? On the 11-41 setup it has now first feels really low and I'm not sure how much I'd use it. Anyway, if there is some accepted wisdom on what might work well I'd be pleased to hear it. I'm lucky enough to also have a spare rear weheel, so if I can find 2 sprocket combo's that can work on the same chain length but give 2 different sets of gearing, that might be good as a reasonably quick way to go from lower to higher gearing and back again. Talon produce 13-38 for the Rev3 which will be the same length chain. This will give you approx a 20% increase in speed for any given revs. For example, flat out in top at 50mph will become 60mph. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pindie Posted December 22, 2011 Report Share Posted December 22, 2011 (edited) Will you be doing long road sections at 50mph +? If so bear in mind the stresses that this may put on everything else. Tyres, bearings and engine will all get a real work out. What you could try is just add a tooth to the front spocket (to a 12). This will raise speeds a tad but also still give you the qualities of 1st and second should you need them on the trail. If you then later need to back to an 11 you only need to change the easier front sprocket. You will also be able to keep one chain for both. If your trail riding you can think of your bike as a 5 speed and only shift up the box from neutral. Just don't use 1st gear unless you need to? The alternative is get an Alp, Scorpa Longride etc - possible a Gas Gas EC 200 enduro bike? The EC is an awesome little bike that will cover all terrain with ease - even extreme sections. If you go this route fit a trials rear tyre to get serious drive on rocks etc. Edited December 22, 2011 by pindie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mb4807 Posted December 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2011 Will you be doing long road sections at 50mph +? If so bear in mind the stresses that this may put on everything else. Tyres, bearings and engine will all get a real work out. What you could try is just add a tooth to the front spocket (to a 12). This will raise speeds a tad but also still give you the qualities of 1st and second should you need them on the trail. If you then later need to back to an 11 you only need to change the easier front sprocket. You will also be able to keep one chain for both. If your trail riding you can think of your bike as a 5 speed and only shift up the box from neutral. Just don't use 1st gear unless you need to? The alternative is get an Alp, Scorpa Longride etc - possible a Gas Gas EC 200 enduro bike? The EC is an awesome little bike that will cover all terrain with ease - even extreme sections. If you go this route fit a trials rear tyre to get serious drive on rocks etc. I'll be doing very limited road, but some sections of 4X4 tracks linking up the play areas. Think I'll try the 12 tooth sprocket as a starter and see how that is. Many thanks. (I've also got a DRz 400, but it's too big n' heavy for the goat-track size trails I hope to be spending most of my time "trail riding" on.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pindie Posted December 24, 2011 Report Share Posted December 24, 2011 Sounds like a good plan. It might start a wear issue if you did it too long but you could fit the 12 and do a test ride? If OK then replace rear and chain?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete_scorpa3 Posted December 24, 2011 Report Share Posted December 24, 2011 Sounds like a good plan. It might start a wear issue if you did it too long but you could fit the 12 and do a test ride? If OK then replace rear and chain?? On the trails you will be hard pushed to notice the difference with just one tooth on the front. It equates to slightly more than 8%, changing your top speed from say 50mph to just 54mph. I would suggest that you go up a minimum of two on the front and ideally two down on the back thus keeping the same chain adjustment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pindie Posted December 24, 2011 Report Share Posted December 24, 2011 I've always thought that one off or added to the front is like 2-3 off or added to the back? 8% can make a big difference - if your bike was 8% lighter you'd be very happy? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete_scorpa3 Posted December 24, 2011 Report Share Posted December 24, 2011 I've always thought that one off or added to the front is like 2-3 off or added to the back? 8% can make a big difference - if your bike was 8% lighter you'd be very happy? 1 on the front is the same as 3.34 off the back, that's where the 8% come in. Of course it would make a difference, but only 4mph at 50 is hardly noticeable. I would however be very happy to get an 8% pay rise! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stonezone Posted January 13, 2012 Report Share Posted January 13, 2012 I put a 13 on the front and left the stock rear (had to get a new chain and also cut off the chain guard). It makes it much more usable in the trails, as I actually get to use first. I rarely use 5/6th 'cept on fire roads, but even then i'm careful not to bog it; mostly you can just cruise slow in 4th. I'm pretty happy with it as an uphill mountain bike ('10 evo 290) but it's not a ktm250xc. My rear brake overheats from lots of trail riding though... I need to work that issue out, there's a thread on that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mb4807 Posted January 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2012 Easy question. How do you get the front sprocket off? I've taken the circlip off, but the sprocket won't just slip off the shaft due to the shape of the chain slipper black that covers the swingarm. There's a slot for the front sprocket to run in, if that makes sense, and it's stopping the sprocket coming off the shaft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stonezone Posted February 6, 2012 Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 Easy question. How do you get the front sprocket off? I've taken the circlip off, but the sprocket won't just slip off the shaft due to the shape of the chain slipper black that covers the swingarm. There's a slot for the front sprocket to run in, if that makes sense, and it's stopping the sprocket coming off the shaft. its soft plastic/rubber so i just kind of bent it to get it out. I had to cut off the chain guard the is part of the stater cover to get the 13t to fit fyi. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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