trix Posted January 8, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2012 Cheers will replace the key switch with one of them, its a pain in ass to reach under for the key. I never tested the key switch because I'm going to replace it and presumed it must be ok if I'm getting 0 or 25v depending on if its on or off or am I wrong ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwhy Posted January 8, 2012 Report Share Posted January 8, 2012 (edited) Cheers will replace the key switch with one of them, its a pain in ass to reach under for the key. I never tested the key switch because I'm going to replace it and presumed it must be ok if I'm getting 0 or 25v depending on if its on or off or am I wrong ? is the 0 or 25v on the thin wires at the relay? if yes then the keyswitch is ok this means the relay is not switching the thick red wires, you can test by just by connecting the 2 thick red wires together at the relay this should bring the bike to life ( put the keyswitch to the on position ) . edit: the reason I ask if the 25v is on the thin wires at the relay is this voltage is to high for the relay cos from your pictures it is rated at 14vdc and 25v will not do it to good over long periods. Edited January 8, 2012 by gwhy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete_scorpa3 Posted January 8, 2012 Report Share Posted January 8, 2012 I've fitted a simple On/0ff toggle switch under the 'tank.' http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/110748136394?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 I mounted it on a plastic bracket cable tied to each frame rail, it's easy to reach under and switch it on. I've also changed the original connectors to one male and one female so that if the switch fails, it's an easy job to plug them together and bypass the switch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwhy Posted January 8, 2012 Report Share Posted January 8, 2012 I've fitted a simple On/0ff toggle switch under the 'tank.' http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/110748136394?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 I mounted it on a plastic bracket cable tied to each frame rail, it's easy to reach under and switch it on. I've also changed the original connectors to one male and one female so that if the switch fails, it's an easy job to plug them together and bypass the switch. The on/off switch do not need to carry much current so a smaller (much cheaper ) toggle switch could be used, I suspect that the fact that there is no back emf diode fitted to the relay coil is what kills the original keyswitch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trix Posted January 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2012 Sorry for the late reply. I have replaced the keyswitch and the relay with new parts and still nothing so we can rule them out. So now down to the throttle or controller, the throttle is cracked so I'm debating replacing it anyway but any tests I can do ? I took it apart and cant see anything obvious, maybe water got in through the crack I dunno. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwhy Posted January 10, 2012 Report Share Posted January 10, 2012 On picture 5 that you posted ( where you showed you measured the voltage ) on the plug where you connected the black prob to do you get 25v if you put the red prob on the red wire at that same plug ?. this will test the relay,and keyswitch and nearlly all the wiring so you should have +25v at that plug ( the one that goes into the controller ). the throttle can be tested if you can get to the wires that go to the controller ( at the throttle plug) , there should be a thin red and black wire ( going to the throttle ) these wires should have around +5v on them, if the throttle has 4 wires then one of the other wires will read 0v but as you twist the throttle ( if its working ) the voltage should rise upto around +5v , the other wire ( if it has 4 wires ) will have a fixed voltage that will light the lights on the throttle body. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trix Posted January 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2012 (edited) I've uploaded 2 more pics so you can see the wiring I have for the throttle going to the controller... http://s880.photobucket.com/albums/ac10/Trixlad/Public/ I can slice a bit of the shielding off to get the multimeter prongs in if needed. Edited January 10, 2012 by Trix Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwhy Posted January 10, 2012 Report Share Posted January 10, 2012 Ok so its looks like a 5 wire throttle and from your pics it look like the three wire plug, red and black are the +5v and blue is the throttle signal ( 0-5v dependent on throttle position) and the two wire plug is the battery monitor orange and black ? that will be 25v ( I think ) you can measure these at the throttle as you have it apart. Did you measure the supply voltage ( 25v ) at the controller, bypassing the relay and keyswitch? and was it 25v ? . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trix Posted January 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2012 Yeah 25v at the wires going into the controller. Nothing on anything at the throttle. I ordered a controller last night so should be here tomorrow hopefully, regardless of anything having spare parts is not much of a problem. Cheers for the help. Oh another thing, each connector plug is filled with something, I presume to waterproof it, is this glue out of a glue gun ? Had to rip most of it out to get at the cables so either need to re-do it or properly join all the cables which I'm leaning more towards to be honest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwhy Posted January 11, 2012 Report Share Posted January 11, 2012 If you have 25v going into the controller and no voltage ot lights at the throttle then this do indicate that the controller is at fault, Yes it is probably hot glue, I use hot glue all the time to seal wires in plugs to help keep the water and dirt out its good stuff until you need to get it out again . Hope the new controller does the trick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trix Posted January 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2012 Just to update this replaced the controller still nothing so bought a new throttle and still nothing. So brand new relay, controller, key switch and throttle, still no lights no power no click of the relay. Only thing left to replace is the battery's which was my original plan, so off to buy new battery's then Ill update this again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwhy Posted January 21, 2012 Report Share Posted January 21, 2012 Just to update this replaced the controller still nothing so bought a new throttle and still nothing. So brand new relay, controller, key switch and throttle, still no lights no power no click of the relay. Only thing left to replace is the battery's which was my original plan, so off to buy new battery's then Ill update this again. If you have +5v on the throttle connectors and 25v going into the controller then I cant see how it is the battery's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trix Posted January 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2012 Well battery's replaced, still nothing, plug the charger in and the light goes green after 5 mins saying its finished charging, re-checked all the wiring everythings connected good. The only thing left is the motor. I'm debating cutting all the wires and joining them with solder to eliminate any connectors, good idea ? Can I unplug the motor just to see if the lights come on ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwhy Posted January 24, 2012 Report Share Posted January 24, 2012 Well battery's replaced, still nothing, plug the charger in and the light goes green after 5 mins saying its finished charging, re-checked all the wiring everythings connected good. The only thing left is the motor. I'm debating cutting all the wires and joining them with solder to eliminate any connectors, good idea ? Can I unplug the motor just to see if the lights come on ? Hi Trix, you can test the motor by taking your red and black wires from your battery and connect them directly to the red and black ( I think they are Red and black but it really dosnt matter, if you connect them up the wrong way round the motor will go in verse )wires going into the motor, make sure that the wheel is off the ground and the bike is held stable and fingers out of the way of every thing that moves when you do this as the motor will instantly go max speed ( if it is working ) . You can bypass the keyswitch, relay and fuse wireing just by connecting the red and black from the battery directly to the red and black that goes into the controller, this should light the throttle light if you still do not get any throttle light then check the connections to throttle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trix Posted January 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2012 Cheers gwhy, stuck the wires straight onto the battery from the controller and the lights came on , keyswitch, relay and fuse is all brand new so it must be a connector in one of them, ive gave each one a tug and nothings loose or even wobbles, gonna rip the connectors off em all and solder all the wires together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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