Rear Mudguards 2012

[eugenevd]

Whats the latest? Any conclusions as to what can be done, fixes to be made, replacement guards that has flex in them, certain year models?

[chuckindenver]

heres the hook up.

first, remove the fender{mudguard}

trim the lip of the edge that goes over the air box.

install plastic screws in the rear holes, you can use door panel push clips from an auto parts store as well,

screws look nicer, so..

when you loop it, or back it into a rock...it will pull the plastic screws out, and let the fender flop up, rather then snap off.

FYI: 2013 fenders will fit 2009 and up bikes, you have to order the air box cover as well, make cleaning the air filter much easier. only mod you need to do, is drill a hole in the fender for the very front screw. see my post on the 4T

[chuckindenver]

some pics

[eugenevd]

@chuckindenver - thanks for that , the pictures illustrates the idea nicely. This is high on my todo list!

[eugenevd]

I found the other post you mentioned: http://www.trialscen...on-the-2013-4t/

Edited May 12, 2013 by eugenevd

[coriolis]

http://www.bosioffroad.it/shop/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=2288&category_id=4&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=58

This is Top Trial Team's answer. You need to cut down an existing mudguard.

I can confirm that in my experience, 09 10 and 11 mudguards are all the same. They all break far too easily. I have a black one and they seem much more flexible.

[mark sidey]

I have a 2012 300 factory, am onto my third guard. The original smashed at the back, so I wired it up, then it smashed right across the middle of the airbox. Actually I smashed it. It was me. We should stop talking about how they smash. It's us, we are smashing them! The black one I got second was OK for a while, but then I broke it about 150mm back from the rear bolts. It looked naff too, especially with that wire that I "fixed" it with!

So I bought a new guard and sliced it straight across, 50mm back from the hooked-under bit that clips onto the airbox. Using a hacksaw. Then I epoxied and rivetted a piece of 4mm thick aluminium, 100mm long and bent to the shape of the underside of the guard, which is around 180mm across, to the stub left on the bike. First I took off the sticker though, and used emery cloth and brakleen to get both sides nice and clean. So the epoxy would stick. I used 4mm SS rivets, 3 each side in a triangular pattern to spread the loads out and hopefully avoid too much stress raising. If you do this mod, keep the rivets away from the very edge.

Then I drilled some holes in the piece of guard left over, and cable-tied it to the 50mm piece of aluminium sticking out. You can stuff spare ties into the carbon-look covers where they meet the tank, up by the filler cap.

This works well, so long as I use enough ties to keep the rear bit from flopping too much. And it is not such an eyesore. Looks a lot better than a smashed one! The graphic is fairly busy, so the cable ties don't show up too badly, especially if you trim them off nicely. You can glue the bits of sticker you peeled off back onto the underside of the aluminium. If I'd thought I would have cut the sticker at 100mm and peeled it off as one piece, which would look even better.

If I were to do it again I'd make the aluminium a bit longer, say 120mm, to get a bit more support. Easier to stop the back bit flopping around. Maybe a big hole in the middle of the rear bit "for lightness". 50mm is enough for the forward bit, it is way strong. And I would use some of those nifty plastic screws instead of cable ties. As a matter of fact, as soon as I get hold of some this will happen.

I'm out of town at the moment, but if anyone wants to see photos say so and I'll throw some on early next week.

Cheers ... Sidey of Ixion Motorcycle Club of Wellington, NZ.

[0007]

Hey, there are plastic darts that Yamaha uses on ATV fenders and snowmobile windshields are mounted with plastic 5mm screws, I could come up with some part numbers if you are interested

Just a thought

[mark sidey]

Mate!

Yeah, let me have them please.

[0007]

Plastic 5mm screws 90150-05024

The darts are 8mm 90269-08006

Both of these are snowmobile part numbers, I don't know if non snowmobile countries will have them but give it a try

If the dart number is not available have the a Yamaha dealer check a Grizzly or Kodiak part, they use these in several spots to hold the plastic down

[chuckindenver]

the white plastic screws i used were found at the local auto parts store...cost 1.29 for a pack of 10

i watched a younger rider buddy,. ground loop his 2013 with my fender mod.

pealed the fender back..didnt break,

he found the 2 screws in the dirt. put them back in...and it worked just fine..

before this mod, he had replaced the rear fender 2 times in 3 mos...

told me, hes looped it, and tacod the thing daily...has yet to snap the fender.

[zacmul]

Hi,

A while back i got asked a question about this on my youtube channel so i made a video.

Here is how i got my guard flexible.

[ross brown]

I liked the look of the black Top Trial Team mudguard kit. Well what a disappointing experience fitting a TTT flexible mudguard turned out to be. While the plastic is flexible enough, the item arrived without any installation instructions. But that’s OK as there is a low-res two page document available on the web sites of several of the Top Trial Team UK resellers. All goes well until Step 8. “Cut out the corresponding template from the suppled sheet”. This is the template you use to cut into your original guard in order to shape the Beta OEM guard ahead of the Top Trial Team part. But where's the template? It seems to me that the document on the web should have THREE pages. Oh well, with some care and attention I cut the old mudguard (a brave move when it is perfectly good to start with) using a hacksaw and a Stanley knife. This cut creates the “V” where the front and rear guards meet. The fit as seen from above is good. Just likes the photos on ebay.

However, when you screw the Beta ‘front half’ of the guard back into place you are effectively pinching in the sides, so physics dictates that the centre will rise slightly as the sides get pushed in. When you screw the TTT ‘rear half’ of the guard into place you are effectively pulling down the sides, so that the screw holes line up and the centre gets lower. This results in the Beta Guard sitting higher than the new Top Trial guard with a very sharp looking "V". Doesn't look bad in the photo but in real life I think "Damn, wish I'd just stayed with the old guard".

I

I’ve had a vasectomy so the placement of this sharp looking 'V' it doesn’t worry me unduly. But its not the sort of finishing detail that I expect to see and it lets the rest of the bike down. I wish whomever brought this product to market had spent a little more care in the design and execution. A couple of extra mms here and there and the fit quality would have been spot on.

Also I read somewhere in the forum that you can re-use the rear part of the OEM mudguard that you cut off. As I see it, this is rubbish as the TTT new metal support - nicely made and it does fit beautifully on top of the air box under the mudguard - adds height to the under guard area so that there is no way the OEM mudguard can stretch to fit over it while still using the original mounting holes. This is just one man's experience of course and while the panel-gap is not Lexus quality I had hoped for better.

The solution: is to drill a new hole in the Beta guard and anchor the Southern most part of the guard through the rear air filter mount with a 25mm screw.

Edited November 29, 2013 by ross brown