Buying A Beta, But I Have A Different Question !

[magicmat]

Hi guys

I've done some searching on here and found some excellent threads about what to check over when buying a beta.

And while im very tempted not to put a thread (a sign that the beta has a good following and forum !) I still had the urge to put a thread up and ask just a couple of questions.

This is the bike i am going to look at.

2005 Rev3 250 cc - owned from new for the last 7 years (which to me is a good sign)

- I know that they are prome to stators, and this one has had one replaced.

- i know to check for headstock and swinging arm bearings

- I've read that the shocker is rose jointed and i need to check the joint at the top and bottom of the shock due to them being

[al_orange]

Hi,

All of the information you require is on here if you search for it but I'll try and summarise/answer for you. Bear in mind I'm a beginner but I've just purchased a 2001 Rev 3 that was in a pretty poor state and have learned a hell of a lot from here and by working on it!

- I've read that the shocker is rose jointed and i need to check the joint at the top and bottom of the shock due to them being £40 each to replace ?? The guy says he weighs 18 stone, im not saying he's big but could suspension wear be an issue? -- Like you've said, check the joints and the frame/shock around them as I weigh 17 stone and the suspension bottoms hard sometimes. Worse case is something is cracked. Most likely, bearings will just need replacing but you can check them as normal. Oh and look at the pegs/hangers if they are drooping past horizontal then that shows the owner is hard on the shock/pegs

- I've also done abit of reading and it seems that carbs can leak? -- Yep and there's loads of info about stopping it. Search the internet and the forum. It's no big deal if it hasn't been done. I would think that it has been though!!

- If it is normal for them to leak? if so when should i expect to see it leak? cold/warm p****** out / a dribble? and can you actually stop it leaking because im not keen on the idea of it leaking -- It will p*ss out when the bike is stationary and the engine off and you lean it to the side. Obviously, the fuel tap needs to be on for this to happen - it really is no biggy but then if after 7 years they haven't done something that simple, what else have they skipped??

- Do the watercasings also corrode in this model of bike? Can i check it without spilling coolant everywhere? -- Pretty sure they do. Search the forum for exact details but assume they do. No you can't check it without draining the coolant and taking off the water pump cover. However, run the bike up and down the road (get the gears/clutch working, not just the engine) and then look at the oil window (bottom left hand of engine - it should be clear/transparent (ignore the colour unless it's white!) or very near (clear after a few mins rest). If it's white/milky/not transparrent, then probably have coolant problems.

My oil was actually white, like paint! but I was too ignorant to know what I was looking at, at the time. I've fixed it all up now so the it will remain to see how much damage has been done to the internals by sitting in water!! That's the main risk with this. Actually fixing the issue is very easy and I found it quite fun!

Again, this is just my limited knowledge so get searching the forum and the internet. It's all good info for when you do buy one - and I promise that you'll be very pleased when you do get a good one. They're awesome fun.

Edited January 27, 2012 by Al_Orange

[magicmat]

thanks Al,

Thats very informative

Matt

[dan williams]

I have an '05 which is down for main bearings at the moment. Too much sitting in storage after I got the '08.

The shock mounts are called Heim joints over here. Wikipedia has a bit on the history. Wear will depend on use and conditions but just picking up the rear end and seeing if there's play will tell you more than any of us can.

Yes the Mikuni piddles fuel. Take it off and set the float level, change pilot jet to a 27.5 if not done already and then reassemble and nipper a hole in the two vent tubes halfway up the carb body. Problem fixed.

Do the clutch fix pinned at top of forum.

The '05 has aluminum cases which were a lot less prone to corrosion but again you might want to pull off the case just to check. Use a good premixed coolant like Silkolene Pro-cool or Engine Ice and never fill with tap water.

Every Beta with an aluminum frame I've owned has developed a front end clunk as the steering head bearings have seated. Usually tighening the triple clamp nut above the bearings eliminates it for the life of the bike. Do this carefully though as the aluminum threads can be stripped.

Make sure the electrical system has a good solid frame ground. I usually hard ground to the frame at the ignition coil mounts. Betas can be a bit daft with their wiring.

The stock kill switches are awful. If the original owner hasn't replaced his yet tell me how he lived this long.

Everybody panics about "white oil". The truth is the case is not sealed and even if you don't go through puddles condensation will get into the gearbox and emulsify the oil. You will never get all the water out. Change the oil once in a while and don't worry about it.

I highly recommend the full length fork guards.

Welcome to the family.

Edited January 28, 2012 by Dan Williams

[fhtrucker]

How can you tell if it is a stock kill switch or not and what trouble do they give??

[magicmat]

Thank you for all the input.

The above bike was a mint and had been looked after really well, I dont know what was wrong with me though, as i didnt buy it.

I cant explain it, but it just didnt feel right. Odd i know and i regretted it straight away.

BUT !

Im off to pick up a 2006 Rev3 270 tonight

I know the owner and he has looked after the bike right, setting the float etc, so hopefully it will be spot on