digga Posted January 27, 2012 Report Share Posted January 27, 2012 Hi there guys,well i finally have my new 2012 TR280i in the garage,if it ever stops raining i will be able to take it for a ride.Anyway getting to the chase,i went to remove the rear wheel for a wee look and check the axle for lube,drooped the chain,removed the axle and proceeded to slide the rear wheel back and what do you know,the heads of the rear disc bolts catch the inside of the calliper assembley, am i missing something here,i have had many bikes over the last 30 years but have not had this before,surely you dont have to remove some disc bolts first? Peter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
borus Posted January 27, 2012 Report Share Posted January 27, 2012 (edited) Remove the disc protector and lift the wheel straight up. The caliper comes off with the wheel. When you install, place the caliper on the disc first then drop the wheel straight down. You will see the other end of the caliper housing fits nicely in the hub which allows it to fit properly. cheers Edited January 27, 2012 by borus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digga Posted January 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2012 (edited) Remove the disc protector and lift the wheel straight up. The caliper comes off with the wheel. When you install, place the caliper on the disc first then drop the wheel straight down. You will see the other end of the caliper housing fits nicely in the hub which allows it to fit properly. cheers Hi borus,thanks for that,i was driving to a mates place today and the thought crossed my mind that it may come out that way,some bikes the locating pin/dowel that the calipper slides on has flats so you can only slide the wheel straight back,not upwards,but not the Ossa obviously. Thanks for that,i just have to get the knack of starting this sucker,its got zero hours on it at the moment and does not want to start with any less than a dozen kicks! Cheers. Edited January 28, 2012 by digga Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsp Posted January 28, 2012 Report Share Posted January 28, 2012 (edited) i took mine in yesterday for remaping and i spoke to the dealer about i was having problems starting from cold (about 6-8 kicks) he tried and it fired up in 3. what you need to do is 2 sloppy kicks and then take the slack out of the kick start and then jump on it, i tried again last night when it was cold again and it started 3rd kick, i am sure i just havent been kick it hard enough. when its hot its 1 or 2 kicks max jsp Edited January 28, 2012 by jsp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
borus Posted January 28, 2012 Report Share Posted January 28, 2012 Hi borus,thanks for that,i was driving to a mates place today and the thought crossed my mind that it may come out that way,some bikes the locating pin/dowel that the calipper slides on has flats so you can only slide the wheel straight back,not upwards,but not the Ossa obviously. Thanks for that,i just have to get the knack of starting this sucker,its got zero hours on it at the moment and does not want to start with any less than a dozen kicks! Cheers. Glad it helps. it's rather easy that way. I think because the Ossa is unique there are some tricks to working on them etc. Once riders get the knack to starting they're really no issue. The latest map appears to have more power everywhere and revs freer, same starting and maybe a little higher tickerover. JMO "welcome to the future" cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsp Posted January 28, 2012 Report Share Posted January 28, 2012 the futures bright the futures GREEN jsp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
borus Posted January 28, 2012 Report Share Posted January 28, 2012 the futures bright the futures GREEN jsp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digga Posted January 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2012 Thanks you guys,yes your correct about the bike being unique and it appears there is certain ways to remove different things,(like the air-cleaner)thats a challenge,its great to see some genuine interest and mateship in the Ossa community,have not really experienced that with other brands of bikes,i guess i have never been a member of a forum either,only joined a few months back to ask some questions about the Ossa when trying to decide between it and the Gasser. Next question,how close to the frame is your kickstarter in the (folded away posistion)? Mine is nearly touching,but i assume if i were to shift it on the internal splines it will be way too forward? Cheers again guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
borus Posted January 29, 2012 Report Share Posted January 29, 2012 (edited) Thanks you guys,yes your correct about the bike being unique and it appears there is certain ways to remove different things,(like the air-cleaner)thats a challenge,its great to see some genuine interest and mateship in the Ossa community,have not really experienced that with other brands of bikes,i guess i have never been a member of a forum either,only joined a few months back to ask some questions about the Ossa when trying to decide between it and the Gasser. Next question,how close to the frame is your kickstarter in the (folded away position)? Mine is nearly touching,but i assume if i were to shift it on the internal splines it will be way too forward? Cheers again guys. I've not run into any kick start installations where it was close to the frame. Here is an installation guide - http://www.ossacanada.ca/Ossa%20TR280i%20Clutch%20Case%20Installation2.pdf Hope this helps - cheers Edited January 29, 2012 by borus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digga Posted January 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2012 I've not run into any kick start installations where it was close to the frame. Here is an installation guide - http://www.ossacanada.ca/Ossa%20TR280i%20Clutch%20Case%20Installation2.pdf Hope this helps - cheers Hi Borus,thanks for all that info and pics,now i can see how it works,as it wears into the rubber stop the clearance will increase i think,mine is about 1.5mm of the frame at the moment.Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunlingkau Posted January 30, 2012 Report Share Posted January 30, 2012 new bike is a bit more kicks, after some hours run ..... the bike will easier Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsp Posted February 4, 2012 Report Share Posted February 4, 2012 (edited) had a strange day today i noticed the snail cam on the brake side wasnt on the swinging arm stop, tried to tighten up the bolt but still no better, you could pull the wheel and move it. i ve now worked out that for some strange reason the rear wheel spindle is tightening on the snail cams but that still isnt enough, i ve shortened the spindle by 2mm and now ever thing seems ok. but this has got me stumped as to how or why this has happened. any ideas ? jsp Edited February 4, 2012 by jsp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunlingkau Posted February 6, 2012 Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 any photos ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsp Posted February 6, 2012 Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 sorry no, do you think the spindle could have started to stretch ? its always been hard to stop the brake side snail cam from spinning when to tried to tighten or loosen the wheel but with me shortening the spindle its stoped doing that now. you could see a mark on the back of the snail cam which matched the wheel spindle, so when it was tight it was like the spindle was slightly longer than the gap in the swinging arm and it wasnt tightening the wheel fully. if that makes sense jsp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neo Posted February 7, 2012 Report Share Posted February 7, 2012 sorry no, do you think the spindle could have started to stretch ? its always been hard to stop the brake side snailcam from spinning when to tried to tighten or loosen the wheel but with me shortening the spindle its stoped doing that now. you could see a mark on the back of the snail cam which matched the wheel spindle, so when it was tight it was like the spindle was slightly longer than the gap in the swinging arm and it wasnt tightening the wheel fully. if that makes sense jsp That sounds really weird to me too. Are you sure that you didn't leave out a wheel spacer or washer last time yo took off the rear wheel? .... Or have the snail cam's gone concave? When you say you "shortened the spindle by 2mm" did you cut/grind the length of the spindle? .... Why didn't you just use a fat washer? ... And I can't figire out why that would stop the snail cam's turning? My guess is that somthing is still not right if you had to do this. Best of balance. Neo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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