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Rear Tyre/Tube Help Required


whiteley
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Hi,

New to trialscentral so go steady on me.

I've recently bought a 2004 Sherco 2.9 and I'm having a bit of a problem with the rear wheel. Someone in the past has fitted a tube in the rear tyre, and drilled the rim for a rimlock. I set about changing the tyre when I got the bike and managed to nacker the old tube when removing it.

I bought a new 'heavy duty' 400/450-18 tube and assembled the lot, got the tyre on the rim fine, beadlock seated properly, plenty of soap, then started inflating. I couldn't for the life of me get the bead seated all the way round. There was a section on either side which wouldn't budge. Deflated, re-soaped and tried again to no avail. The tube then burst at ~45psi along the seam.

So where am I going wrong. I realise it's going to be a tight fit with it being a tubeless rim and tyre, but I don't see how I'm going to get the thing seated. I read in another thread that tubeless tyres usually pop onto the rim at circa 60/70psi with soap, but I'll not get that into a tube if it burst at 45!

Any help appreciated, I'm running out of patience and want to get out for a play on my new toy after a 7 year break!

Thanks,

Chris

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Hi Chris, and welcome.

My previous bike (a rev3) had a tube fitted due to a horribly leaking rim the previous owner was unable to fix. I replaced the tyre and put a tube back in. HOWEVER, as I used a tubeless tyre, I didn't use a rimlock. I did struggle to seat the bead, but no more than with a tubeless tyre. I used around 90psi with loads of soap and left it until the magical pop happened.

My tube didn't burst, but shouldn't because the tyre is preventing it 'growing' under pressure. Assuming there is nowhere to nip it once it's under pressure. I'm thinking spoke holes etc. It may be that the rimlock is preventing the tube from inflating evenly, streesing parts of the tube.

Try it again, and if you have a tubeless tyre, leave the rimlock out. Mine never crept in 2 years after it was finally seated.

Good luck

Graham

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Thanks for the quick replies and welcome.

I should have mentioned in the first post that the rim is in quite poor condition internally. It has corroded quite heavily around the spoke nipples which I'm guessing is why the previous owner went down the tube route. A fancy new rim band and a tube of silicone would maybe solve it, but I quite fancy sticking with the tube knowing the state of the wheel. I did apply plenty of thick rubbery tape I had in a rim band sort of formation to protect the tube from the rim, so that shouldn't be causing me any issues.

I'll try and get hold of another tube and give it a go minus the rimlock. What you say about it not allowing the tube to inflate evenly does make sense. I used THIS tube if it makes any odds.

Thanks again.

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Hi Chris, and welcome.

My previous bike (a rev3) had a tube fitted due to a horribly leaking rim the previous owner was unable to fix. I replaced the tyre and put a tube back in. HOWEVER, as I used a tubeless tyre, I didn't use a rimlock. I did struggle to seat the bead, but no more than with a tubeless tyre. I used around 90psi with loads of soap and left it until the magical pop happened.

My tube didn't burst, but shouldn't because the tyre is preventing it 'growing' under pressure. Assuming there is nowhere to nip it once it's under pressure. I'm thinking spoke holes etc. It may be that the rimlock is preventing the tube from inflating evenly, streesing parts of the tube.

Try it again, and if you have a tubeless tyre, leave the rimlock out. Mine never crept in 2 years after it was finally seated.

Good luck

Graham

:agreed:

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STOP!

Do not use silicone sealant. It will be buggered for ever.

1.Take off the tyre completely from the rim.

2. Takes a wire brush to the inside of the rim and then finish off with a handfull of wire wool and WD40 to clean it up.

3. Clean inside of rim with contact cleaner spray and paper towels - let it dry.

4. Add new rim tape for spokes of use a new tubless band.

5. Put tyre in a warm place for a couple of hours - airing cupboard or 6 inches from a radiator should do it.

6. If you use a tube again make sure you but just enough air into it so that it will stand up on its own. This stops you pinching it or it twisting as you fit it all, it also helps minimise the chance of nipping it with your tire levers (try pinching a blown up ballon with your fingers). You are using proper smooth end levers are'nt you?

7. Place pre aired tube into tyre.

8. Sort out valve in rim hole and fit lock nut.

9. Fit well soaped first side of tire.

10. Fit second side of tire.

11. Bounce wheel vertically onto the ground for a 360 of the wheel - seems to help settle it all.

12. Soap up any bits of rim edge you can now see.

13. Add air till she pops onto the rim.

Don't give up and work in small amounts getting it all onto the rim. A good tube and rim should not burst a correctly fitted tire and tube.

Edited by pindie
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i had this trouble with a new back tyre on my yam xt600.

Had to inflate to about 80psi to make it move, but i only had fairy liquid on it, so proper soap would be better.

As pindie says, make sure its clean and then well soaped and bounce the wheel 360 semi inflated and try again.

I left at 80psi overnight and it did creep into positon in the end, but it was very tight.

One thing...if you do use fairy, when the bead pops, watch your eyes as it can really through the soap out at that pressure.

Swearing at it helps too :rolleyes:

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If you must use soap , don't use a liquid soap. The thickener used is salt.Ever wondered why the alloy rims corrode ?

I suggest using WD40, it lubes well , dries very quickly and despite fears of the rubber rotting due to petrochemical damage,I have had no problems.

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