charliechitlins Posted April 18, 2005 Report Share Posted April 18, 2005 It could be a bad ignition part, but I would first check if it's a sheared flywheel key. The change in timing caused by the rotor moving would account for the backfiring. You'll need something hold the flywheel with for R&R of the nut, a torque wrench for replacing the nut and a flywheel puller. Flywheel holding tools are pretty easily made from a flat bar and a couple bolts that match the holes in the flywheel. Male sure the bolts don't go too far through. and damage the stator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charliechitlins Posted April 19, 2005 Report Share Posted April 19, 2005 Sorry your thread got hijacked, Tom. Did you get the bike running? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy_290 Posted April 19, 2005 Report Share Posted April 19, 2005 Sorry, didn't mean to hijack, added onto this one as it was the same issue? My problem is I aint got a clue about ignitions, flywheel keys, what they look like or even where they are??!?!? Think I'm gonna have to take it to ERJ's in Stockport Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neonsurge Posted April 19, 2005 Report Share Posted April 19, 2005 My problem is I aint got a clue about ignitions, flywheel keys, what they look like or even where they are??!?!? I sure ain't no mechanical expert, but having spent many (un)happy hours fiddling with my Rev-3's ingition in an attempt to solve a persistent engine knock, I can point you in the right direction: Remove the right-side engine cover. You're now looking at the flywheel. To remove the flywheel you'll need a puller - these can be purchased from a dealer or alternatively, make your own as detailed by CharlieC elsewhere in this thread. Once you've got the flywheel off, look closely at the shaft on which it was installed. There's a slot with a small piece of metal sitting in it that locates in a corresponding slot in the flywheel. That's the key and it's fairly common for them to break, causing problems very similar to those described in this thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy_290 Posted April 19, 2005 Report Share Posted April 19, 2005 Fantastic, cheers fella, I'll have a look at that, next door neighbour used to fix my old Fantic 240 & Majesty so I imagine he'll have a puller. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomg Posted April 20, 2005 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2005 Got bike started @ weekend, but made the fatal mistake of stopping it then it would not start again. So if anyone has any more ideas i'd be really grateful Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charliechitlins Posted April 21, 2005 Report Share Posted April 21, 2005 There's obviously something wrong with it. Just because it started doesn't mean you're any closer to fixing it. You have to shut it off sometime! How did it run? Did you do anything to try to fix/diagnose it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomg Posted April 21, 2005 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2005 Tried the plug cap thing as suggested in an earlier post. It was not keen to start, but then ran OK, until I turned it off. Have not had time to look at it again this week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kinky boots Posted April 23, 2005 Report Share Posted April 23, 2005 I've got a Rev 3 (01) and my mate has an '02, and at the same trial, both of our bikes packed up and wouldn't start. Both had a weak spark. Turned out to be the CDI unit. Cost about Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy_290 Posted April 25, 2005 Report Share Posted April 25, 2005 Job snorted, turned out to be a faulty plug on mine, purrin like a pussycat again now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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