Evo 200 - Any Good?

[02-apr]

I think the best way to put it is this. If you had given someone a 200 Beta fifteen years or less ago they would have told you it was a jolly good 250.

Sections for many are now laid out as no more severe or even less severe than they were then.

Edited February 12, 2012 by 2/4

[overdale]

Just for interest ; I'm enjoying riding in France at moment on my little (pony!) no 200 evo... It is very different from 200 available here... more power & tourque....we think probably UK bikes not being subject to homologation "stuff" has heavier flywheel and ignition timing more advanced... I.m 84 kilos and it pulls all gears up to 4 in sections as good as any...I've always been a bit throttle happy so it suits me better than a big un. Only negatives regarding beta generally are poorly designed/manufactured and overpriced rear mudguard and of course the electrics/stator. Both these issues must be cost/profit related .i.e considered more profitable to sell them like they are than to sort it out. I.ve found it effective to dismantle the clutch plates every few rides, just so they'll seperate WHEN you want them to ..not a millisecond after you pull the lever... I'm sure its just oil film and flatness of friction surfaces that causes stiction and would wellcome other solutions.

Hi Chewy,

Just noticed that you were having to strip the clutch regularly due to it not clearing. Have you tried changing to ATF?

The other thing is to ensure that all the plates are the same way round, on the steel plates make sure the rounded edges on the teeth go to the engine side. Also if you inspect the friction plates, one side of the tang is more rounded than the other, fit all of these the same way round also, say rounded side to the engine and see how it goes.

Otherwise you can always do the mod posted in the Beta section -it works!