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Ty175 Throttle Cable Options


johnnyboxer
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I'm in the process of swapping from an Amal throttle to a Domino

throttle on my Majesty 175.

However the original cable already fitted, is slightly too long and I've run out adjustment at the carb end.

Anybody know a correct length cable to mate a TY175 Carb to a Domino

throttle (I don't want to mess about with soldering nipples)

I want to buy one of the correct length - any suggestions - do Domino

make one?? Venhill??

Your ideas please

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Easy to phone one of the people specialising in TY Yams, Trial and Trail, JK Hirst, or Criag Mawlam (who does use Domino throttle on his own Majestys, if I remember rightly!).

Thanks Chris,

I will do that anyway......................just trying to narrow it down a bit first

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Domino twistgrips usually come with a solderless nipple.........why not cut a bit off the end of your existing cable and use that!

Domino

Martin................you're right, they do

However does it work to cut the cable (cue........ many strands of little wires) and screw in the solderless nipple.

What about ..........

a) the nipple working loose and falling out........resulting in a DNF

:rolleyes: the cable fraying and becoming useless

These are my fears against cutting the cable and using that approach

However could you use that nipple and use solder .................just to make doubly sure

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Easy way to cut cable..........place the cable on top of a lump of flat metal, and chop it using a hammer and stone chisel. Need to get it in one hit to work properly....but it prevents the cable from fraying all over the place.

Solderless nipple should hold ok if its tight.

Your cable you have at the moment is not much use, so it has to be worth trying and it wont cost you anything!!!!

Martin

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I always coat the whole deal with flux and solder up the 'solderless' nipples.

Been making my own cables for 25 years without a failure.

Made plenty of clutch cables, and they get a lot more stress than throttle.

Thin cables I cut with nippers, no problem.

Thick ones (clutch, brake) I use a Dremel with cutoff wheel.

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I prefer to buy, but make usually due to time or because its an odd part no one has.

I try and use the factory soldered end on the carb end and my solder joint on the throttle end. Figure that way if my joint is bad, parts don't suck into the engine. Has never happend, but I always worry.

put the nipple on before cutting to length, else you have to thread frayed wires through tiny hole.

I use liquid dip acid flux.

Then use a solder pot made from 3/4 inch copper pipe cap with a srew or wire for a handle. Heat the solder pot til all molten, dip in the cable end until it heats and solders on. Doesn't overheat the joint, doesn't expose the wires to torch flame or they oxidizxe and weaken.,

k

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good point on widening the braid.

also, I should have clearly noted two cautions that I forgot:

1. Use some light heat from teh flame to dry the liquid flux out of the joint before putting into hot solder. any remaining moisture flashes to steam and can blow melted solder out at you.

2. When all is done, clean the flux acid reisude throughly and lube with penetrating oil to prevent any inner corrosionin the wires. Even ss can be affected by residual acids.

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