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Ty175 Whitehawk


earthmover
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I went to the Telford show with the intention of buying a Twinshock trials bike, after extensive canvassing of our local Classics club members opinions. Two hours into the show, my wallet is lighter, and I'm the proud owner of this:

Mark-012-M.jpgMark-010-M.jpg

The bike was on Ian Pebery's stand, but wasn't one of his. The owner was at the show later that morning, and filled me in on a couple of little things that needed doing. I'd already spotted a couple of my own, but was confident these could easily be rectified. Everyone I knew at the show commented on the purchase, so much so that I started to panic that I'd bought a Lemon! With Ian's help we put the bike in the back of my car, and I left just before the snow screwed all the roads up! Later that evening, after checking the oil (none! :huh: ) and sticking a drop of fuel in, I started her up. Engine works, clutch works, gears work, brakes work. Job's a good 'un. Then, things start to go a little downhill........

The second time I started her up, my slipper (?) slipped off the lever, and it kicked back, cracking the casing. This turned out to be a very poor welded repair, liberally covered with filler.

Happily, I was right, the problems were (fairly) easily rectified. Again, thanks to the great information resource that is Trials Central, knowledgable friends, and helpful and enthusiastic dealers.

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First I fitted a new folding tip gear lever, and a gear change shaft repair kit. There was no o-ring in the old one, and one stripped bolt hole. A tab washer was needed on the gearbox sprocket. The fuel tap and the carb

were stripped and cleaned, and an in-line filter added.

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A sidestand was added, and the Betor shock springs changed to 40lb ones.

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Ian provided me with a replacement clutch casing (the old one has now been properly welded as a spare). I've extended the upright part of the brake pedal upwards, and added a "stop" rather than allow the pedal to rattle against the bottom of the clutch case. The kickstart shaft has been replaced, and a blob of weld on the kickstart knucle has put the lever perpendicular to the ground again.

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The forks required the most work. The sliders are quite badly pitted, both above and below the seals, and I'm not sure these forks have ever seen a service! The top caps were very tight, but had no spanner marks on them. The springs and spacers were rusty, the oil was milky sludge, but worst of all, the right wouldn't go down the last two inches of travel, and jammed if tried. The slider would go all the way down in the left leg, so it wasn't that, but looking down the bore of the right leg showed nothing obvious. Working on the "what's the worst that could happen?" theory, we honed the bottom of the leg with emery tape wrapped round a dowel in an electric drill until the slider went all the way. Both of the sliders were then degreased, the pitted areas gently cleaned with a brass brush on a Dremel, then filled with Areldite. 24 hrs later I carefully rubbed them down and then polished them smooth. A thourough clean of all the internals, new seals, and 130ml of 10w oil and we have full travel, and about the best action I think we'll get with stock springs. I'll ride it like this for a while and see what happens.

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I bought an old top yoke off flea-bay, and had the original handlebar mounts machined off, so I could move the bars forward. This has only had a brief test ride at the moment, but seems to help greatly in keeping the front wheel down! The billet ones look great, but I can't justify spending that much just yet. I'm really looking forward to getting a few trials under it's belt now!

Cheers Mark

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HI EVERYONE

JUST THOUGHT I WOULD ADD TO THIS TOPIC, HAVE SPOKEN TO IAN TODAY , WOULD PEOPLE PLEASE READ AS MARK STATED, THAT THE WHITEHAWK THAT MARK BOUGHT AT THE SHOW DID NOT BELONG TO IAN , SO PLEASE CAN PEOPLE READ WHATS CORRECTLY STATED AND NOT WHAT THEY THINK AS IAN HAS RECIEVED SEVERAL TELEPHONE CALLS TODAY REFERANCE THIS POSTING , THANKS ROB

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The bike was on Ian Pebery's stand, but wasn't one of his.

Had an email asking about this, so to reiterate, the bike wasn't one that Ian had built for sale, it was one that someone else had asked him to put on his stand. I'm sorry if I've given a wrong impression, Ian has been more than helpful, and the problems with the bike were nothing at all to do with him.

Cheers

Mark

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Hi, your bike looks nice, just done something similar to you with the top yolke clamps.I had to resort to hand saw and file. Not tried mine out yet in anger, but it does feel much better. Thought I would ask if the fibreglass tank has been treated against ethanol as it will start to dissolve and cause you problems if its not.

Regards.

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Hi, your bike looks nice, just done something similar to you with the top yolke clamps.I had to resort to hand saw and file. Not tried mine out yet in anger, but it does feel much better. Thought I would ask if the fibreglass tank has been treated against ethanol as it will start to dissolve and cause you problems if its not.

Regards.

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Hi Everyone Its time to stop this nonsence, i am the the previous owner of the bike, obviously Mark has issues with the bike, which he is perfectly entilted to air, what i can not understand is why he had to drag Ians name into this, im sure that he is not happy to be associated with the negitive remarks about the bike, so to get strait for everyone who reads this forum.

IAN PERBERDY HAS HAD NOTHING TO DO WITH THIS BIKE, HE HAS DONE NO MECHANICAL WORK, OR SUPPLIED ANY PARTS FOR IT, IN FACT HE HAD NEVER SEEN THE BIKE UNTIL THE FRIDAY BEFORE THE SHOW, HE PUT THE BIKE ON HIS STAND AS A PERSONAL FAVOUR TO ME

I consider Ian as one of the nice guys in trials, his work and parts are excellent, and i would reccomend him to anybody who wants a first class job.

Mark if want to take up any of the issues you have with the bike, you can do so through this forum or contact via messages.

OXBOY

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I have to agree with Andy.T where he says about an 'untreated' fibreglass tank.

Here's mine 2 weeks after painting and had NEVER had petrol added to it since washing it out prior to painting.

A classic dose of 'tank-warts' if ever there was one!

Within a month of adding petrol, the 'tank-warts' had turned into huge 'blisters' and most of the paint had peeled off in layers!

I've stripped it since then and added Caswell GTS1750 sealer but as I'm still in the process of repainting it, I can't say if the Caswell's has cure it ................. yet!

tank-warts.jpg

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Didn't know whether to start a new thread, as this one seems to have sparked off some "interesting" replies, but decided to finish this one off instead.

Andy.T & handsome_al;

Yes I have been warned about the ethanol effect, both by Oxboy when I bought it from him, and from others. I have used it every weekend since I bought it with no ill effects, but I do drain the tank on Sunday night. I take the fuel pipe off the carb, slide a short length of larger diameter pipe over it which I lead back into my petrol can, then lean the bike over onto its left side with a tie down from my garage wall.

The top yoke mod was suggested by Ian when I was chatting to him, he showed me what he had done to his bike, I thought I'd give it a try. I like what you've done with the old bolt holes handsome_al, I might just copy that.

I rode it in a trial yesterday, Aqueduct Classics at Llandegla Moor. Dropped 17 marks on the clubman route, which was about mid-pack. Very, very pleased with the way the bike performed, and think that some of those marks can be shaved off once I get more used to it's characteristics. I can't believe how tight it can turn, and finds grip (sometimes too much!) where I didn't expect any. There was quite a lot of interest in the bike too, as there don't seem to be that many in our neck of the woods.

Can't wait for the next trial now!

Cheers

Mark

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