spawtydawg Posted March 6, 2012 Report Share Posted March 6, 2012 Hi, sorry if this subject's been covered before but can anyone advise me on the correct way to preload the shocks on a twinshocker? I have a nice new pair of Betor shocks which have preload adjusting rings but I'm only guessing at the amount of preload I use so the shocks may not be working as well as they might. Also how do you determine the shock spring rate Is this just down to feel and experience? I'm assuming if the springs are to soft it will bottom out easily, to hard and it will kick on small stuff. Thanks in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bashplate Posted March 6, 2012 Report Share Posted March 6, 2012 i will be interested in the replys to this, as i'm on the lookout for some shocks for my newly aquired tlr200, and was wondering about spring selection. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
axulsuv Posted March 7, 2012 Report Share Posted March 7, 2012 Set your preload so the bike drops the same front and rear with your weight centered on the bike ... So your weight doesn't change the bike geometry . You will most likely need help to measure your suspension drop . Start with equal and then play with it to your liking... glenn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feetupfun Posted March 7, 2012 Report Share Posted March 7, 2012 Further to what Glenn said, if when you do what he has said, you end up with the preload set so high that the shocks are topped out with no rider aboard, that is telling you that the springs are not stiff enough. Betors come with 40 or 50 pound per inch springs. If your bike is a standard TY175, then I would suggest as a guide that if the rider is over 90kg to use 50 pound springs and under 90kg to use 40 pound springs. If your TY175 shockie mount locations or footpeg locations have been customised, then that spring rate recommendation may not apply. For bashplate's TLR, the rear suspension leverage ratio and footpeg position is different to a TY175 so may need different springs for the same weight of rider. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feetupfun Posted March 7, 2012 Report Share Posted March 7, 2012 Another thing is the type of riding style you have. If you generally ride gently and want to maximise traction and control, go for the softest springs you can. If this is you, then aim for about 50% of the travel used (front and back) when you do the Glenn test. Some other people like jumping off big things. They are usually willing to compromise a bit of traction and control for the sake of not breaking wheel hubs and spokes, and so they opt for springs on the stiff side to avoid harsh bottoming. If you are like that, then aim for 30% to 40% of the travel used up when you do the Glenn test. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tee_why Posted March 7, 2012 Report Share Posted March 7, 2012 Betors come with 40 or 50 pound per inch springs. If your bike is a standard TY175, then I would suggest as a guide that if the rider is over 90kg to use 50 pound springs and under 90kg to use 40 pound springs. My comment to this with my Falcons with 40 pound springs, standard height feels out of sync to the front end,as they are stiffer to my weight. (havent experimented with lighter oil yet). Compared to another bike I rode with 50 Pound falcons, standard length, they were stiffer, but felt ballanced to the front. So what I am saying is the reaction rate is equal, but never got a chance to try the borrowed bike for traction test. My 40 pound springs are set up correctly as above post, the front end is skitterish (rebounds too fast) and something I havent had time to sort. Any suggestions here for the front end (standard springs, 10wt oil) ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bashplate Posted March 7, 2012 Report Share Posted March 7, 2012 tee why, guess if your forks are rebounding too quick you need thicker oil in them, try 15 or even 20 grade as some old bikes used to use ATF in the forks, which is 20 grade. thanks for spring advice on the TLR, the ones on it are non standard as far as i can tell, and too stiff, same with the dampers, which is why i'd like some complete new units.....just deciding what the spec should be, i'm 90 kg with gear on. will try njb, they could proberbly tell me exactly what i need. 390 long are standard, are there longer ones available to quicken the steering? cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old trials fanatic Posted March 8, 2012 Report Share Posted March 8, 2012 tee why, guess if your forks are rebounding too quick you need thicker oil in them, try 15 or even 20 grade as some old bikes used to use ATF in the forks, which is 20 grade. thanks for spring advice on the TLR, the ones on it are non standard as far as i can tell, and too stiff, same with the dampers, which is why i'd like some complete new units.....just deciding what the spec should be, i'm 90 kg with gear on. will try njb, they could proberbly tell me exactly what i need. 390 long are standard, are there longer ones available to quicken the steering? cheers If i remember correctly the TLR250 used 400mm ones or alternatively you could reposition the shock mounts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pschrauber Posted March 18, 2012 Report Share Posted March 18, 2012 There is an easy how to adjust from Öhlins for adjusting your shocks the right way in terms of: - sag, how much the shock shoud be compressed when the is standing and you stand/sit on the bike, - adjust preload, - adjust rebound, - ... http://www.zupin.de/uploads/tx_userzupindownloads/OM_07252-01_01.pdf (The site is in Germany but the instructions are completly in english, you can download the PDF for record) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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