chuckmorris Posted May 31, 2012 Report Share Posted May 31, 2012 I ride a 290 2001 and need to learn how to maintain my bike properly. I've basically run mine into an inch of its life but before I buy a new bike I want to practice maintaining the old one first. Now the bike isn't in great condition so I don't want to spend bucket loads on it, but I want to get it to a decent condition for selling and learn a few things along the way. Also I've only been riding in the local quarries so I want to get my bike into a decent condition to join my local club and ride in novice trials. So far I've started off by changing the spark plugs, replacing the air filter and removing the air box for cleaning. I was amazed at how much sh!te was in there. Now I want replace the gear oil. I've looked around the net for information on how to do this but haven't come across anything useful. I do have the spare parts manual for my bike but that's it. Now this is the gear oil I plan to use. http://www.splatshop.co.uk/ipone-gear-box-oil-1-ltr.html Is this the correct stuff? Also can anyone give me any pointers? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuckmorris Posted May 31, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2012 (edited) Within minutes of posting I've just found this http://www.sherco.co...ation_Guide.pdf from the sherco site. And whole bunch of useful guides from here http://www.sherco.com/wayne/ The previous links I had didn't work. Will the above transmission oil be OK to use? Thanks Edited May 31, 2012 by chuckmorris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul_stuart Posted May 31, 2012 Report Share Posted May 31, 2012 to keep bike sweet just keep doin filter i keep a gas gas diary of all things needed, trials , carb done , oil change , like a service history all youve got to do is small things regulary makes a big difference and due to what you said id get a mechanic to look at you bike and you should look at exhaust Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dadof2 Posted May 31, 2012 Report Share Posted May 31, 2012 Hi there - the good new is that expensive wear is easily avoided. 1) Reguarly clean the air filter and soak with sticky oil - whatever you use in the engine usually works fine 2) Wash out the air box now and then 3) Never use a pressure washer and don't put water on a hot engine so it steams the electrics under the tank 4) Regualry grease swink arm bearings, shock bearings, linkage and steering head bearings 5) Change fork oil and brake fluid every year 6) Reguarly change the gearbox oil. You can reuse some of it if you leave it to settle for a couple of weeks and only reuse the clean oil at the top. Check the discoloured oil for bits of metal 7) After washing spray the metal parts and pivots with WD40 or similar (obviously take care near brakes or handlebar grips etc) Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cabby Posted May 31, 2012 Report Share Posted May 31, 2012 Hi there - the good new is that expensive wear is easily avoided. 1) Reguarly clean the air filter and soak with sticky oil - whatever you use in the engine usually works fine 2) Wash out the air box now and then 3) Never use a pressure washer and don't put water on a hot engine so it steams the electrics under the tank 4) Regualry grease swink arm bearings, shock bearings, linkage and steering head bearings 5) Change fork oil and brake fluid every year 6) Reguarly change the gearbox oil. You can reuse some of it if you leave it to settle for a couple of weeks and only reuse the clean oil at the top. Check the discoloured oil for bits of metal 7) After washing spray the metal parts and pivots with WD40 or similar (obviously take care near brakes or handlebar grips etc) Cheers. Everything he says except completely ignore the "never use a power washer" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuckmorris Posted June 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2012 I started my bike and noticed water leaking out of what looks like and overflow near the transmission oil drainage bolt. Why would it do this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rickymcg Posted June 2, 2012 Report Share Posted June 2, 2012 Take a close look to make sure it coming out of the overflow and not around the bottom for rad fan cowl. My plastic cowl rubbed though my rad fins and had to fix it with jb weld the put silicon between the cowl and rad to ensure it doesn't happen again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuckmorris Posted June 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2012 Take a close look to make sure it coming out of the overflow and not around the bottom for rad fan cowl. My plastic cowl rubbed though my rad fins and had to fix it with jb weld the put silicon between the cowl and rad to ensure it doesn't happen again. Thanks for the response. Yes it's definitely coming from the overflow. I can see it bubble out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted June 3, 2012 Report Share Posted June 3, 2012 What overflow are you referring to? There is no overflow (specifically) on a typical Sherco motor. Yhere is a tube on the rad outlet for coolant(not water). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuckmorris Posted June 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2012 What overflow are you referring to? There is no overflow (specifically) on a typical Sherco motor. Yhere is a tube on the rad outlet for coolant(not water). Sorry for the slow response I've been away for the weekend. I've uploaded a picture http://www.flickr.com/photos/78678479@N06/7159055923/in/photostream The water seems to bubble out when its ticking over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tony27 Posted June 6, 2012 Report Share Posted June 6, 2012 Thats the hole to shows if 1 of the seals on the waterpump shaft has let go, looks like the waterpump seal has let go. Very easy job to fix, you may as well do the seal to the gearbox while you're at it. Manual showing what needs to be done is pinned at the top of the page Hopefully the shaft hasn't developed grooves as they're not the cheapest things in the world Give Chris at Splatshop a call, he'll be able to sort out what you need & give you any advice you may need Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuckmorris Posted June 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2012 Thanks for that Tony. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted June 7, 2012 Report Share Posted June 7, 2012 Thanks for that Tony. There you go then as Tony has you in the right direction now. The only thing I might add to the pump seal replacement guide on the Sherco or RYP site is that you may be well advised to lubricate the shaft and seals with a dab of silecone grease upon assembly of the shaft assy. This extra bit of lubrication seems to help prevent a "dry seal " condition and premature seal failure in my opinion and is noteworthy.. Cheers, MC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuckmorris Posted June 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2012 There you go then as Tony has you in the right direction now. The only thing I might add to the pump seal replacement guide on the Sherco or RYP site is that you may be well advised to lubricate the shaft and seals with a dab of silecone grease upon assembly of the shaft assy. This extra bit of lubrication seems to help prevent a "dry seal " condition and premature seal failure in my opinion and is noteworthy.. Cheers, MC OK thanks for the help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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