arnottben Posted May 31, 2012 Report Share Posted May 31, 2012 Hello, New to this forum and to trials actually, have had a few MX bikes and am very much in to mountain bikes. Bought a 2004 TXT pro 280 from a friend for a good price...it's needed quite a bit of work so far though, but I don't actually mind and have enjoyed tinkering! There was a problem with the clutch, with it needing bled every time I went to use the bike. Changed the M/C and S/C seals, bled and it's fine now, and have just ordered a new clutch pack as the old one was measuring under 9.5mm and dragging. The gearbox is the next problem. It is very hard, almost impossible, to get the bike in to neutral when it is running. The only way I have managed is to put light pressure on the gear lever whilst rolling along slowly in 2nd, then sometimes it will click down in to neutral. However it is not easy. I know the clutch drag could be the problem so hopefulyl with the new clutch pack this problem will be sorted. The bigger problem though is that the bike will shift between 1-4th, sometiems not easily (repeatedly trying to shift up, lever moving but not selecting the gear) but when I get in to 4th and try to shift up, the lever will not budge. It will shift down again to 3rd easily, but will not move up at all. I think it has only started doing this in the last couple of months as I'm sure when I first got the bike it shifted up in to 5th and 6th ok. Anybody got any suggestions? And how do I get in to the gearbox? I've had the clutch side apart, but on the left side of the engine I've only taken the plastic cover off to reveal the igntition. Would happily tackle a gearbox rebuild if there was a guide on how to do it. Cheers, Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laser1 Posted May 31, 2012 Report Share Posted May 31, 2012 http://www.trialspartsusa.com/youtube.html See engine repair video's on above site. Invaluable info from Jim Snell - the USA parts importer for GG. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thats_a_five Posted May 31, 2012 Report Share Posted May 31, 2012 It is quite common for trials bikes to be difficult to shift into neutral. That is a good thing. You do not want it finding neutral when you don't want it to. Have you changed your gearbox oil? I have found that to be the first thing to do when my clutch begins to drag. Look at the fluid you drain. Just dirty or milky, metal parts, etc? Under the clutch, check the springs on the gear selector rollers. They should be pretty firm. Also check the shift adjustment per the Jim Snell video. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arnottben Posted May 31, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2012 Cheers for the replies guys. I will check his videos out. I appreciate it should be difficult to get in to neutral, however on this bike it is impossible while the bike is running and stationary (have checked idle speed too), and shifts like 2nd to 3rd are troublesome, sometimes taking 3-4 attempts (lots of rolling along pulling up on the lever, slowing down enough that the upshift is no longer needed! ). How do I check the springs under the clutch? I know the part you mean, I had a prod at it last time but couldn't determine anything. When I got the bike I drained the oil, it was a milky red colour, I've since changed it twice and it's come out clear each time. Cheers, Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baldilocks Posted May 31, 2012 Report Share Posted May 31, 2012 use ATF dexron 3 in the gearbox this in my experience reduces drag and should improve the gearchange. Also that first oil change when the oil was milky ? has the waterpump seal leaked recently, coolant may have contaminated clutch pack so your new plates plus ATF should improve things and as said above check the adjustment per the video. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thats_a_five Posted June 1, 2012 Report Share Posted June 1, 2012 My bike is older and not a "Pro" so the springs are different. I am not an expert on the pro. You may have to remove the clutch basket to see the rollers on the gear selector drum. They are spring loaded and have a lot of tension to keep the drum from turning and holding the bike in gear. Check that they are working correctly and not binding up. Check your radiator for oil in the coolant also. If you find any, change the water pump seal beforre you put in the new clutch pack. Water in the oil will make the clutch drag like crazy and potentially foul the new clutch material. With the clutch off you should be able to turn either the rear tire or transmission shaft and select all the gears with the shift pedal. That should tell you if there is a problem inside the gearbox or just under the clutch cover. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arnottben Posted June 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2012 Great, I've changed the coolant before and it didn't seem to have any oil in it. I'll get a seal and change it just in case though, not worth the risk of damaging the new clutch for the sake of a cheap seal. Next question...gear oil volume..manual says 550cc, I've read 300cc on here, when I put 550cc it seems to come out the breather pipe until the level decreases. Should it be half way up the window when the bike is sitting vertically? 550cc covers it and more. Cheers Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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