neilh Posted June 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2012 Can’t see your point, why would you want to use anything other than the correct oil? If you had loads of filter oil would you use that for a car oil change… well then its obvious that you read without comprehension. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monty_jon Posted June 3, 2012 Report Share Posted June 3, 2012 well then its obvious that you read without comprehension. No, basically you want to use any old oil to save a few quid. Doesn’t sound good for a mechanic! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilh Posted June 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2012 No, basically you want to use any old oil to save a few quid. Doesn’t sound good for a mechanic! no i dont. ive stated previously that i got no problem buying the correct stuff. whether you like it or not, all oil got an alternative. including your car and your bike. do you want me to give examples? if there is an alternative out there that will work, then i may have stock of it. i dont know if there was, so i asked a question, and not once argued with the info ive been given. just questioned replies to promote discussion. now i know different then the correct stuff will be used. next. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manofsteele Posted June 3, 2012 Report Share Posted June 3, 2012 What I can tell you is that a good number of riders (including me) use ATF in their gearboxes. Now that you do have gallons of lying around.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilh Posted June 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2012 yep mine is due a change immediately to be honest. i might squeeze another little wobble about out of it on tuesday. hangover dependant lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manofsteele Posted June 3, 2012 Report Share Posted June 3, 2012 Yeah, don't leave it in too long. I change mine every other ride. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dadof2 Posted June 3, 2012 Report Share Posted June 3, 2012 I have only ever bought 1 tin of air filter oil (silkoline) in my life and that was for motocross. I found it very difficult to wash out thoroughly compared to 20w-50 or 2 stroke oil. I now use 2 stroke, 10w-40 or gear oil and know from the wear (lack of) on my engines they must be doing the job OK. Using Duckhams hypergrade 15w50 (car engine oil) on my Honda CR500 motocross filter I would find that the outside of the filter could be nearly completely clogged by the end of a days racing but non at all had got through to the inside of the filter. I have seen bikes set on fire by using 2 stoke mix or filter oil on the filter and not allowing sufficient time for the petrol or solve to evaporate. Coat the inside of yur air box with oil also. I suspect that frequency and thorougness of cleaning is far more important than type of oil. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilh Posted June 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2012 Yeah, don't leave it in too long. I change mine every other ride. every other!?!? i was told every 5 rides? I have only ever bought 1 tin of air filter oil (silkoline) in my life and that was for motocross. I found it very difficult to wash out thoroughly compared to 20w-50 or 2 stroke oil. I now use 2 stroke, 10w-40 or gear oil and know from the wear (lack of) on my engines they must be doing the job OK. Using Duckhams hypergrade 15w50 (car engine oil) on my Honda CR500 motocross filter I would find that the outside of the filter could be nearly completely clogged by the end of a days racing but non at all had got through to the inside of the filter. I have seen bikes set on fire by using 2 stoke mix or filter oil on the filter and not allowing sufficient time for the petrol or solve to evaporate. Coat the inside of yur air box with oil also. I suspect that frequency and thorougness of cleaning is far more important than type of oil. Cheers careful now, you may just get yourself arrested by the filter oil gestapo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manofsteele Posted June 4, 2012 Report Share Posted June 4, 2012 Well, to be honest everyone seems to have their own schedules for oil changes and stuff. I bought my bike quite tatty and the previous owner appeared to follow a "never in my lifetime" service schedule. Everything was rotten filthy dirty and horrible. It was terrifying to see what came out the my gearbox the first time I changed the oil, so I changed it every ride until it started to come out clean with little or no metal particles in it. After that I dropped back to every other ride and it's remained all good. Dextron III is so cheap by the gallon (my bike holds 520ml) it seems daft not to do it regularly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pindie Posted June 6, 2012 Report Share Posted June 6, 2012 I use the posh and expensive Putoline nano trans as it lasts six months of general riding until the gear selector gets notchy. It still comes out clear after that time as well. It's not expensive when you consider how long it lasts. Also, since using it I have not had any clutch drag/judder/creep etc since on Nano trans. I always use specific filter oil as a 1ltr tin lasts years. I get a thick clear polly bag and put a cap full in an empty bag. Squidge the bag about to coat all interior surfaces. Drop clean and dry filter into the bag and squidge about again to work the thin smear of oil into and over the filter surface. Works a treat and you don't get messy!!!!! I also use a smear of plain grease on the filter mating surface so when it goes into the airbox it seals really well and stops any water getting through. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manofsteele Posted June 6, 2012 Report Share Posted June 6, 2012 That's a cracking idea with the placcy bag. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted June 7, 2012 Report Share Posted June 7, 2012 yep mine is due a change immediately to be honest. i might squeeze another little wobble about out of it on tuesday. hangover dependant lol. Now then all said I will tell you something. Yes, basically any oil will work, yet possibly not the best, still better than nothing! Change it every ride then less an issue as no runoff concerns. Yet the high tack oils specific to this application do seem to have their advantages, and in having used a few over the years, some seem better than others. (mind you this is a bugtrap so you want something that makes bugs stick) I have come to like the NO-TOIL product. Firstly because it seems to wors as a high tack, and secondly because it can be cleaned with a water soluable and bio-degrabeable cleaner that comes in the kit as compared to using solvents. Fact is I could probably just throw the filter in with the dirty laundry as it seems the actual cleaner agent is nothing more. As time has passed it seems that I am not the only one that likes this stuff, as I found it on the shelf of the local Honda dealer in a Honda wrapper, so it seems that it is indeed Honda approved here in the states, yet I have not been able to confirm it available in the UK market under the Honda lable. It is just easy for me to stop by the local Honda motorcycle dealer to pick it up if need be, yet it does last and I do not clean every ride, so I get a year out of the kit at least! Something for you to look into, as well as others, as the old style solvent or petrol cleaning of filters is not environmentally friendly nor kind to your hands, yet in a pinch it can still be done with this stuff as well it seems. Nuff for now, MC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feetupfun Posted June 7, 2012 Report Share Posted June 7, 2012 No-Toil dries out and becomes not-so-sticky much quicker than normal filter oils (in my climate anyway) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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