skram Posted June 4, 2012 Report Share Posted June 4, 2012 (edited) Hello, Bought this off of the original owner a few years ago. Came with original manual and sales receipt. 753 miles. He told me it was a '67, but the identification charts on bultaco.com do not have my serial number (403 541)... any input? Have not tried to start it yet, I have just power washed it. Any advice on what to look over or change prior to starting? Original owner had it running a couple years ago... tomorrow I will clean carb, revise wiring, change spark plug and put in some fresh gas! Will report with an update. Any input on model year would be helpful! -skram Edited June 4, 2012 by skram Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skram Posted June 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2012 What model is this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feetupfun Posted June 5, 2012 Report Share Posted June 5, 2012 The motor ID number (M4) says 1963-1965 Sherpa N 200cc, but the cylinder head and the rest of the bike looks like M16 (MK2 Matador 250cc 1965-1967). The MK2 Matador was developed from the Sherpa N, so this bike may be a very early Mk 2 Matador. I suggest you fit an air filter before starting the motor, and get ready to stop it quickly if any of the motor bearings get noisy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrb505 Posted June 5, 2012 Report Share Posted June 5, 2012 I agree with Feetup looks like a fairly original M16 Mk2 Matador Have a look here http://cemoto.tripod.com/bultaco.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skram Posted June 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2012 Could not achieve spark this afternoon. I went through the wires and found that the ones going into the case to behind the flywheel were pretty well worn so I fixed the ones that needed to be fixed. STILL NO SPARK! Any suggestions? New to these machines but they are very basic... don't know what I am overlooking? skram photo 1. when I opened the case and saw the wires tucked in there corroded and split photo 2. close up of wires photo 3. after wire clean up, trying to get spark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feetupfun Posted June 6, 2012 Report Share Posted June 6, 2012 maybe the points are not working? maybe the stator coil insulation has broken down? Maybe the stator coil is open circuit? maybe the HT coil has failed? maybe the killswitch wiring is shorting to earth? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skram Posted June 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2012 Thank you for the reply feetup, I did not get into those items because I do not have a flywheel puller and those are all located behind the flywheel. I will be ordering a puller tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skram Posted June 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2012 Well I finally got the puller today and pulled off the flywheel. Do points look bad? Anything stick out as a sure problem? Did a fair cleaning... This wire that runs up to the headlight looks like it needs to be replaced... or should I buy a whole new one?... Inside of the headlight, notice the block where the wires connect... there is a pair of black wires that are not connected to anything and in the manual the diagram does not show these... hmmmm?? what do you think?? cheers, skram Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feetupfun Posted June 15, 2012 Report Share Posted June 15, 2012 The points should be touching with the flywheeloff so at least one problem is that the points are stuck open. I would replace any old-looking wiring because with vibration, the copper conductors work-harden and eventually break. What is that black thing with the green and yellow wires,a horn? ingition keyswitch? speedo?. The points cam follower and oil wiper look very dry. Have a look inside the flywheel at the points cam too and see if it looks OK. It needs to be smooth, clean and very lightly lubricated, or the points cam follower will get worn away very fast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bultacosd Posted August 3, 2012 Report Share Posted August 3, 2012 Have you got that bike started yet? Your frame number indicates that it is indeed a model 16 - Mk2 Matador. (Nearly al the Bultaco frame numbers start with the letter B, then the model number but in the early years it was not always the case.) I own an ex works Matador Mk2 but I suspect the wiring is different to your machine as the U.S. Imported bikes had to have a higher spec lighting system. The ignition system will be very similar. Make sure the green wire is earthed properly. On my bike the green wire goes to the brake light switch which is normally closed and so the ignition coil finds it way to earth through this switch! When the rear brake pedal is operated the route to earth is via the brake light filament which in affect turns on the stop light. All works well if the brake switch terminals are nice and clean ( I fitted a brand new replica switch to mine).However, If the bulb blows, the engine cuts out when you apply the brake. The idea was that you would know instantly if the brake light bulb was not functioning. I would recommend that you ground the green wire to start with and get it going then sort the lights out later. The black cylindrical shape with the green, yellow and blck wire is a regulator. Have fun Bultacosd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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