cafe55 Posted June 6, 2012 Report Share Posted June 6, 2012 Just recently solved a no-spark condition (thanks’ Grib) on my 95 Section I'd been chasing for months. As I had just gotten the bike when the coil failed, I'm now ready to pick up where I left off and focus on the rest of the bike, including changing the fluids and minor touch-ups. Anyone recommend a specific coolant to use? - volume? I understand the engine is magnesium and may require a propylene glycol mix rather than the slightly more corrosive ethylene glycol? Or is this just splitting hairs? Any specific type/grade of ATF for the transmission? I assume the hydraulic brake and clutch take the same fluids - DOT 4?, at least for the brakes. I've used synthetic DOT 5 in my TR6 because it won't absorb moisture and eat the paint but it’s pretty $pendy. Lastly, type of fork fluids and volume? The seals are leaking so a fork re-build is in the immediate future. Like I mentioned to Grib I wish these bikes would have had manuals with all the specs. Thanks, Isaac Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cafe55 Posted June 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2012 Forgot the most important: Fuel ratio - 50:1, 70:1, 80:1 or 100??? Thanks, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lineaway Posted June 7, 2012 Report Share Posted June 7, 2012 (edited) 80 to 1 with a good oil. Do not remember using ATF in a fantic, Dot 4 should be right but check the clutch cap since fantic did use mineral oil at one point.That is all I remember off hand. Edited June 7, 2012 by lineaway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lee99780 Posted June 7, 2012 Report Share Posted June 7, 2012 You need to use the same coolant that is already in, if you use the opposite one then thats when it eats away at your engine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cafe55 Posted June 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2012 Lineaway and Lee, Thanks for the reply. OK, I'll use 80:1 for the fuel mix. This seems consistent since I'll be using a synthetic 2-stroke oil that's known have more lubricating qualities. From the best I could tell the previous owner (PO) was using ATF in the gear box. I've rebuild a couple of Mustang manual transmissions and the required fluid was ATF. Of course, I could be comparing apples to oranges here. I'm also aware REDline makes a racing 120W gear oil that is colored red so at this point it’s really hard to tell. I have both propylene and ethylene glycol and both are florescent green as well as what the PO was using in the bike. I might try taking the coolant that's in the bike to a Lab for analysis but not sure if this can be determined easily? I'll call around. I found out last night the manufacturer (Marzocchi) of the front shocks has a facility here in SoCal so I'll see if I can get a pair of seals and get a fluid recommendation at the same time. One last question. This may require familiarity with the Section. There is a small rubber button 1/4 inch in diam. just in front of the counter sprocket and about 2 inches above the kick start shaft on the outside of the right case. Could this be a bleed pump for the clutch or brake? The very very small lettering says "Brembo". Modern trials bikes, as I'm finding, are a whole other beast compared to the old Honda's I'm used to wrenching on. Thanks, Isaac Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tlrmark Posted June 7, 2012 Report Share Posted June 7, 2012 That would be the bleed nipple for the clutch slave cylinder. I believe Marzocchi reccomended 7 weight fork oil at that time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cafe55 Posted June 8, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2012 Thanks, tlrmark. I thought that's what the button was for but wasn’t 100% confident. I suppose you open the clutch reservoir and pump any air in the line away. Thanks, also for the fork oil info. Isaac, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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