razorback Posted June 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2012 (edited) Great info Paul, thanks! I ordered the flywheel kit with the puller so it sounds like it will be an easy change. I love the fact that all of these changes can be easily undone if I want to. This bike is great fun. Being able to ride every night around the property is so nice. Edited June 16, 2012 by razorback Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael martin Posted June 16, 2012 Report Share Posted June 16, 2012 After fitting the throttle tube is it still a bit much? It looks like you bought that bike from a buddy. I have a flywheel puller if you need it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
razorback Posted June 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2012 No, the bike is not really too much. It's torquey but really not to hard to control if I was wanting to compete. It's just a little rough when idling really slow. I'm using it to build mountain bike trails on very hilly terrain and I want it for very slow riding while I look for new trails and cut thrus. I am wanting to slow it down and make it smoother when idling through the woods and making new tracks. There is not another trials bike around me for 3-400 miles so competing in events is probably never going to happen. I just wanted a very light weight bike that can "putt putt" through the woods and give me plenty of time to look around. Thanks for the offer for the puller but the flywheel kit I ordered comes with one. Since you are from Dallas, the guy I bought it from might be your buddy but I had not meet him before. He lives in Ft. Worth (actually just above it) and he ordered a 2012 Raga and is still waiting for it... bummer for him Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael martin Posted June 18, 2012 Report Share Posted June 18, 2012 Since you are asking for ideas..... Before you buy or fit a low compression head just try fitting the flywheel weight then ride it since you already have fitted the slow turn throttle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jse Posted June 18, 2012 Report Share Posted June 18, 2012 Boyesen dual-stage reeds and race gas will also smooth out the low-rpm power delivery quite a bit. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
razorback Posted June 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2012 Since you are asking for ideas..... Before you buy or fit a low compression head just try fitting the flywheel weight then ride it since you already have fitted the slow turn throttle. I have already purchased them both but I do plan on installing them one at a time to see how they change the behavior of the bike. I do agree and plan to install the flywheel weight first. Thanks for the comments. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
razorback Posted June 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2012 Boyesen dual-stage reeds and race gas will also smooth out the low-rpm power delivery quite a bit. Jon I am already running race gas but interesting comment about the Boyesen reeds. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toofasttim Posted June 19, 2012 Report Share Posted June 19, 2012 "The S3 flywheel is good (and for some of us, essential to tame the abrupt power delivery of the Raga. But you do need to drill some holes in the original flywheel to get the S3 to fit." by TooFastTim As a long time S3 importer and dealer I can assure you that you do NOT have to drill any holes to fit the S3 Flywheel weight kit. I think TooFastTim is confusing it with the HEBO weight. I stand corrected Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
razorback Posted June 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2012 I'm still waiting on parts but I was curious if the fan should be running continuously while riding. When starting it cold, it takes a few minutes before the fan comes on but once it starts, it never turns off. Coolant level looks fine, power does not drop like it's getting hot but since it's new to me, I'm not sure if this is normal. It's about 90 degrees F (32C) outside and I am putting around hilly terrain when riding. I'm running 101 octane and a 50:1 mix. Is it normal or should the fan cycle occasionally when running slow? I'm not sure how to check for coolant flow but is there anything I need to check for if it's not normal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted June 20, 2012 Report Share Posted June 20, 2012 I'm still waiting on parts but I was curious if the fan should be running continuously while riding. When starting it cold, it takes a few minutes before the fan comes on but once it starts, it never turns off. Coolant level looks fine, power does not drop like it's getting hot but since it's new to me, I'm not sure if this is normal. It's about 90 degrees F (32C) outside and I am putting around hilly terrain when riding. I'm running 101 octane and a 50:1 mix. Is it normal or should the fan cycle occasionally when running slow? I'm not sure how to check for coolant flow but is there anything I need to check for if it's not normal? Kinda depends on what you call hilly terrain? At 90F with hills it may well run. Does it cycle at idle? Too much oil BTW! You will be fine at 80:1 as long as you are not running down the highway! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
razorback Posted June 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2012 Does it cycle at idle? No, the fan continues to run. I let it idle for 5 minutes and no cycle off. The radiator fins are clean and the fan seems to be pushing a lot of air when I put my hand behind it. What's the limit to how hot a cylinder, cylinder head or exhaust exit should get? I've got a friend with a laser pointer temperature gun that can read up to 1500 degrees if that would help diagnose a heat issue. Too much oil BTW! You will be fine at 80:1 as long as you are not running down the highway! It's my first batch of mix. I'll go to 70-80:1 on next batch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted June 21, 2012 Report Share Posted June 21, 2012 (edited) No, the fan continues to run. I let it idle for 5 minutes and no cycle off. The radiator fins are clean and the fan seems to be pushing a lot of air when I put my hand behind it. What's the limit to how hot a cylinder, cylinder head or exhaust exit should get? I've got a friend with a laser pointer temperature gun that can read up to 1500 degrees if that would help diagnose a heat issue. It's my first batch of mix. I'll go to 70-80:1 on next batch. Best I recall the thermo switch for the fan is set at about 180F on most bikes(comes on), to go off a typical switch may need to be a bit lower than that. My fan on the Sherco as example will cut off at idle for short periods, yet not positive about the gasser. You should get some temp reading pertty close with the lazer gun if pointed on the head or cyl. The fan is just normally trying to keep things in a normal operating range somewhere betweel the setpoint and boiling point under the pressure cap. which I would think around 230-240 range on the high end, yet if the big motor never drops low enogh it may not cycle out at those temps. Mayby try in the AM when things are cooler. i SUPPOSE IT IS INDEED CYCLING OUT AT SOME POINT IF IT IS NOT COMING ON AT STARTUP! A little spray bottle with water on the rad usually cools things quickly (er) as another test. Exhust will be higher and vary with load, little to do with this. Edited June 21, 2012 by copemech Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
razorback Posted June 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2012 Thanks for the tips but It turns out that the radiator was low in the time it took to run a little more than 1 tank of fuel through it. That's not normal, is it? I was able to put 4-6 oz of distilled water in the radiator and the fan now cycles on and off while at idle. It cycled 3 times in the first few minutes but the over flow is spewing coolant in spurts. Every few seconds it squirts out several drops of coolant. Is this normal until a balance of fluid/pressure occurs? The oil looks great so water is not getting in the crankcase. Where else could the water go? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael martin Posted June 22, 2012 Report Share Posted June 22, 2012 No that is not normal. You shouldn't have to replace the water that much. If its been on it's side a lot or upside down in a ditch might be a factor but I don't think thats the case. Ride it for a bit and check it again and I'll bet you will be ok now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted June 22, 2012 Report Share Posted June 22, 2012 Thanks for the tips but It turns out that the radiator was low in the time it took to run a little more than 1 tank of fuel through it. That's not normal, is it? I was able to put 4-6 oz of distilled water in the radiator and the fan now cycles on and off while at idle. It cycled 3 times in the first few minutes but the over flow is spewing coolant in spurts. Every few seconds it squirts out several drops of coolant. Is this normal until a balance of fluid/pressure occurs? The oil looks great so water is not getting in the crankcase. Where else could the water go? That spitting out of fluid(with expansion) sounds pretty normal untill things normalize. There needs to be a little airspace in there, but not 6 oz worth I would not think,. Keep an eye on things for a bit, should be ok. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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