razorback Posted July 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2012 Sounds good. I need to call Adrian anyway and order a spark arrestor and extended tip to mount it as the entire state is in a burn ban. We still haven't had any rain in months and everything is brittle dry. I've got limbs breaking off trees about every day now it seems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jse Posted July 14, 2012 Report Share Posted July 14, 2012 Sounds good. I need to call Adrian anyway and order a spark arrestor and extended tip to mount it as the entire state is in a burn ban. We still haven't had any rain in months and everything is brittle dry. I've got limbs breaking off trees about every day now it seems. If you do any hillclimbing or high-altitude extended fairly hard riding, I would avoid the small clip on spark arrestors that have the outlet hole smaller than the ID of the muffler spigot. It's my experience that they tend to restrict the exhaust under severe loading and cause overheating. At the Ute Cup last year (8K-13K altitude) just about all, except one, of the plastic end cap mufflers used on the new Pros lost the end spigot due to the plastic melting at the end of the plastic cap. All ran the small add-on SA with the smaller ID outlet. I would imagine they are fine for a "normal" riding scenario, but under more severe conditions they are too restrictive. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
razorback Posted July 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2012 Good tip. I really only need it for this dry season but I'll keep and eye on it. Is there a more open/better arrestor for a late model gasser than the SF? I see Adrian is selling an aluminum end piece to replace the plastic one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jse Posted July 15, 2012 Report Share Posted July 15, 2012 Good tip. I really only need it for this dry season but I'll keep and eye on it. Is there a more open/better arrestor for a late model gasser than the SF? I see Adrian is selling an aluminum end piece to replace the plastic one. Bill, If you are just messing around the property or riding a local Trial the SF should work fine. I run a large body SA I got from RYP and made a vibration-proof mounting system. It looks clunky but is essentially non-restrictive and works a treat up at the ultra high altitudes we run at the Ute Cup. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thats_a_five Posted July 18, 2012 Report Share Posted July 18, 2012 Its good to hear that my overflow bottle idea gave you the same feeling of relief that it did when I used it on mine. ON the subject of spark arrestors, I found a "Sparky" add-on unit that was for some other bike but was able to do a little hammer and dolly work and it now fits over the entire end of my silencer. I drilled out the rivets on the end cap and replaced them with some threaded inserts that allow me to remove the spark arrestor and / or end cap and reinstall with 4 screws. There is no restriction at all but is US Frest Service approved which is required any time I ride on public land. Sorry I don;t have a picture and I can't easily take one because I am in China and the bike is in USA. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
razorback Posted July 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2012 Appreciate the info guys. I had ordered a spanish fly from Adrien on Friday so it's already on it's way but I do like the thought of finding a real USFS approved arrestor as the local forest regulations do require them. I've been riding on public lands for decades however and not once has a ranger ever stopped me to check out my bike except for saying something like "Dang, that sure is a purdy bike" or some such. For now, I'll be riding on private property so the SF should work OK for this dry weather. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
razorback Posted July 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2012 Since race gas is such a pain to get I started using non-ethenol premium gas (93 octane) and I'm getting a little pinging on a hard climb. So I'm going to install the low compression head but I can't get the radiator off as it hits the head before the lower radiator mounting stud/nut things clear the mounting holes in the frame. I read the sticky post about the radiator fan replacement and the text and pictures in that post makes me the think the radiator is easy to take off but I'm not seeing it on my bike. What am I doing wrong? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laser1 Posted July 18, 2012 Report Share Posted July 18, 2012 Razer - You should be able to remove the head w/o removing the Rad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
razorback Posted July 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2012 It does look like I can do that but don't think there is room for a torque wrench when putting it back together. Do you just torque the head bolts by feel or use a torque wrench? If the later, tell me more. Maybe I need a long extension and swivel... maybe, maybe??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jse Posted July 19, 2012 Report Share Posted July 19, 2012 (edited) It does look like I can do that but don't think there is room for a torque wrench when putting it back together. Do you just torque the head bolts by feel or use a torque wrench? If the later, tell me more. Maybe I need a long extension and swivel... maybe, maybe??? Do them "snug" as evenly as possible, run it a bit and re-check. The capscrews only go to about 9 ft lbs or 108 in lbs and chances are you don't have a torque wrench that reads accurately at that low a level. I've never had a problem with "snug", but I re-check them after a heat cycle or two and now and then when servicing the bike. The copper washers will compress over time with heat cycling but just check them once in a while and you will probably never have a problem with head o-rings going out. Remember to always grease o-rings before installation, including the one at the top of the chamber insert. They need to be able to move around slightly to "settle in" during installation, otherwise they can be damaged. Jon Forgot to mention, try lowering the needle clip before going to the low compression insert (unless you want to soften the response) to see if that solves the pinging. Edited July 19, 2012 by jse Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
razorback Posted July 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2012 I've got a 1/4" torque wrench and 108 in lbs would be it's sweet spot but it's just a tad to big to get the front nuts. I've got a small ratchet that fits in there so I may go with the "snug" tightening. Lowering the needle clip will be pretty easy so thanks for the tip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jse Posted July 19, 2012 Report Share Posted July 19, 2012 I've got a 1/4" torque wrench and 108 in lbs would be it's sweet spot but it's just a tad to big to get the front nuts. I've got a small ratchet that fits in there so I may go with the "snug" tightening. Lowering the needle clip will be pretty easy so thanks for the tip. Try a little "practice" with the in/lb wrench with a capscrew in a nut in a workbench vice and that will give you the "feel" for what 108 in/lb torque setting will be on the ones that are difficult to reach. See you on the 28th. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sting32 Posted July 19, 2012 Report Share Posted July 19, 2012 Hey Razorback, I have a starting tip for you, to try. This might not work if you are actually having a bike that is getting too much fuel when you cold start, but hell, 99% of these bikes actually starve for fuel to start. So just give this one try next night you have a chance. Works for me and my dad every day/night no matter what the weather. when you get ready to start your bike, turn on the choke, pull the shifter once or twice (your choice, I personally use 3rd). leave clutch out, rock the bike back and forth moving the engine enough that it is more less bouncing from near TDC (compression) both directions, sometimes I push kicker by hand to get it off the compression part of the stroke, so I can "rock" it... I do this at least 4 times in hot nice weather, in cold I do it 8 times, forward and back 1 times = 1. Now, Each time, bike starts on 1st kick. what is more even when it was 32F at winter trials, might take 2-3 kicks, where it was taking 10 (watch your buddies kick their bikes, I do and I kind of laugh, 6 kicks for most when it is like 70 degrees in the morning). Me, I get almost pissy if I rock the bike 4 times and it doesnt start 1st kick. Helps though that it has been jetted for my area (ks-ok-tx, you know sea level or 1000ft). I like mine richer than pro's who want the big thing to jump before they are ready... 38 pilot I think I have. not sure on main I can look sometime, I document by carving it into the toolbox lid, lol. Anyhow, This saves a HELL OF A LOT of wear and tear on kick-start parts. Some people just lay the bike over to flood the bike when it is cold, since the carbs dont seem to get overly rich enough to start these things when cold. But if you are actually flooding the way you are now, this definitely wont help ya. Just try it. ALso I have had a new plug go bad, I buy Bosch platnums, they are like 3 or 4 bucks a piece so I had hard time thinking a new plug was a problem, but it was. your mileage may vary? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
razorback Posted July 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2012 Try a little "practice" with the in/lb wrench with a capscrew in a nut in a workbench vice and that will give you the "feel" for what 108 in/lb torque setting will be on the ones that are difficult to reach. See you on the 28th. Jon Great idea Jon! Looking forward to meeting you next weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
razorback Posted July 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2012 I have a starting tip for you, to try... I suspect the clogged exhaust was causing my rich condition. It has been starting great ever since I cleaned the exhaust out but I will probably try your approach when it gets colder. My XR650R starts great if I pull the decompression lever in and kick it over 10 times to "clear it out". Then release the lever and it starts the next kick every time. If I don't follow this process it may never start. Who says bikes don't have personalities? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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