awilliams64 Posted July 16, 2012 Report Share Posted July 16, 2012 (edited) just had my chain come apart on my 04 sherco 290. Are these a standard non o-ring 520 chain? how many links is normal? i am just going to buy a new masterlink, but im thinking a new extra chain might not be a bad idea. Edited July 16, 2012 by awilliams64 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awilliams64 Posted July 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2012 i see lots of new chains on ebay, most for around $30 shipped, including rk, did, bikemaster. i also see lots of oring chains. Is it better to go with non oring for a reason? also is one brand superior to the other? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taffe Posted July 16, 2012 Report Share Posted July 16, 2012 Hi, I would check the stretch in the old chain. I just bought a new chain and had to cut a few links off. I washed the old chain and measured the wear/stretch in it and was surprised in amount of difference. When it was all full of oil and crud, it appeared ok. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted July 16, 2012 Report Share Posted July 16, 2012 What chain is on your bike? To even get a masterlink to fit properly you need to know because they will not all fit properly! Many Shercos of that vintage require a "half link" to fit properly, as I think my '03 and 05 models did. Seems there are only a couple of companies that offer this, Regina(factory chain) being one! See what you have and let us know. Oh, the length is somewhere aroun 101 as I recall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awilliams64 Posted July 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2012 (edited) i think it says regina on it, i dont have a magnifying glass to make sure, here is a pic of what i have at each end. here is one on ebay, says 420 but have confirmed its a 520, a few extra links but i have access to a chain breaker http://www.ebay.com/itm/RK-Racing-520-M-Standard-Chain-114-Links-/230812925668?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35bd85bee4 http://www.ebay.com/itm/DID-520-STD-ROLLER-CHAIN-100-LINK-/400275167216?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d324257f0&vxp=mtr Edited July 16, 2012 by awilliams64 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ham2 Posted July 16, 2012 Report Share Posted July 16, 2012 I don't like the look of that one without a box....looks used to me? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted July 16, 2012 Report Share Posted July 16, 2012 A roller is missing on yours as well. You have the half link on yours, so at the very least you will need a half link kit to fix this I think. Call Ryan to see if he has them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bputt Posted July 16, 2012 Report Share Posted July 16, 2012 Anthony, 520 is correct - No O-Ring - you don't want the add'l drag this will bring and the trials bike really doesn't need an o-ring chain in any case. You can use any chain, even if it doesn't have the half-link. Just use your snail adjusters to get the correct tensioning. Should be approx 100 links for correct length, give or take. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awilliams64 Posted July 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2012 Anthony, 520 is correct - No O-Ring - you don't want the add'l drag this will bring and the trials bike really doesn't need an o-ring chain in any case. You can use any chain, even if it doesn't have the half-link. Just use your snail adjusters to get the correct tensioning. Should be approx 100 links for correct length, give or take. thanks brian, i will just get a standard 520 non oring chain. i think mine has had it anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2stroke4stroke Posted July 16, 2012 Report Share Posted July 16, 2012 It depends how fussy you are about these things and how the bike rides. Personally, having paid for all that design expertise, I use the half link to keep the wheelbase as short as possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted July 17, 2012 Report Share Posted July 17, 2012 (edited) Your snailcams will be all the way out to start! Next you will need oversize snailcams or a 43 tooth sprocket! Bputt is too young to know all this hi-tech info! (sorry Brian) The factory chain is best, yet expensive at about $75 as I recall. If your sprockets are worn, time to do the whole thing! And the S3 bling!!!!! Mike has a kit here that is reasonable and a repair kit that may work as well. http://www.tryalsshop.com/#ecwid:category=162629&inview=product1396507&mode=category&offset=0&sort=normal Edited July 17, 2012 by copemech Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bputt Posted July 17, 2012 Report Share Posted July 17, 2012 It is true, the factory specified chain for the stock bike will be the "ideal" fit. Not certain that ALL of the bikes actually come with a half-link though, as we were just discussing this at the Ohio National when I was getting a new chain there, and there was some uncertainty depending on model. That being said, and as I stated in my post "you CAN use any chain" - yes, tensioner size as well as sprocket size will come into play in this equation too... In fact to that point, if you have switched to a 9 tooth sprocket on the front (as many do), you will find the stock chain is long, and you will be spinning your snail cams. So there are definitely variables to be considered. If you want absolute perfection, and the wheelbase at the optimal length as designed, and you have stock sprockets, etc., then by all means use the factory chain! And Mark will feel much better if you do!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awilliams64 Posted July 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2012 It is true, the factory specified chain for the stock bike will be the "ideal" fit. Not certain that ALL of the bikes actually come with a half-link though, as we were just discussing this at the Ohio National when I was getting a new chain there, and there was some uncertainty depending on model. That being said, and as I stated in my post "you CAN use any chain" - yes, tensioner size as well as sprocket size will come into play in this equation too... In fact to that point, if you have switched to a 9 tooth sprocket on the front (as many do), you will find the stock chain is long, and you will be spinning your snail cams. So there are definitely variables to be considered. If you want absolute perfection, and the wheelbase at the optimal length as designed, and you have stock sprockets, etc., then by all means use the factory chain! And Mark will feel much better if you do!! i just want my bike to roll when i put on the gas....at my level i dont think wheelbase is a big issue. i picked up a couple of rk 520 100 link chains. Just to have an extra. I am sure the sherco one is best but even on ryans site he sells the did non roller 100 link for the bikes. Must be something to it if thats what he is stocking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awilliams64 Posted July 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2012 the 100 link chain is about 2 links short, so i guess its 102. got a longer one today to break down to the right size. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted July 22, 2012 Report Share Posted July 22, 2012 the 100 link chain is about 2 links short, so i guess its 102. got a longer one today to break down to the right size. Adding one full link is going to cover two teeth on the rear sprocket(one inner and one outer) so you can hold it up there or wire tie it to ck accordingly to ck for your range of adjustment. If that is too long, then you will need the half link kit. Which will shorten you by one tooth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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