flappy Posted July 21, 2012 Report Share Posted July 21, 2012 Fair enough, I'm trying to help, not look for an argument, Both the 2005 + 2008 manuals page 4-49 say the same: Install the left crankcase cover being careful not to damage the oil filter cover O-ring. The left crankcase cover (stator) is magnetically attached to the flywheel, be careful during installation. Install and tighten the bolts in a crisscross pattern in 2 – 3 steps. Install the new sealing washer and engine oil drain bolt, tighten the bolt to the specified torque. Torque: 22 N•m (2.2 kgf•m, 16 lbf•ft) Note 2 things It is the crankcase cover bolts not the crankcase bolts that Montytess is snapping The above instructions do not say tighten the crankcase cover bolts to 16 lb.ft Presumably your 2010 bike manual is different I do Apologise gii, after re-reading the manual (properly) I realise it's the drain bolt @16 and not the crankcase bolts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
axulsuv Posted July 21, 2012 Report Share Posted July 21, 2012 Fair enough, I'm trying to help, not look for an argument, Both the 2005 + 2008 manuals page 4-49 say the same: Install the left crankcase cover being careful not to damage the oil filter cover O-ring. The left crankcase cover (stator) is magnetically attached to the flywheel, be careful during installation. Install and tighten the bolts in a crisscross pattern in 2 – 3 steps. Install the new sealing washer and engine oil drain bolt, tighten the bolt to the specified torque. Torque: 22 N•m (2.2 kgf•m, 16 lbf•ft) Note 2 things It is the crankcase cover bolts not the crankcase bolts that Montytess is snapping The above instructions do not say tighten the crankcase cover bolts to 16 lb.ft Presumably your 2010 bike manual is different The statement above clearly states to tighten the DRAIN PLUG to 16ft.lbs ... It just says to tighten the cover bolts in a crisscross pattern , with no torque spec given ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
axulsuv Posted July 21, 2012 Report Share Posted July 21, 2012 OOPS didn't see the above post , but same sentiment ... And Cope ; yes my wrists and hands are calibrated in inch and foot pounds , there is a switch on my elbow to change between them . But something I experience drastically more here in South Carolina , than I ever saw in So.Cal. is relativity new cars and bikes with untouched components and bolts just completely corroded together ... Must be the year-round 99% humidity !!! And I'm sure you see the " My uncle Buck and his Friend fixed it , but it still don't work ..." (at that point my labor rate usually doubles ). Glenn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted July 22, 2012 Report Share Posted July 22, 2012 OOPS didn't see the above post , but same sentiment ... And Cope ; yes my wrists and hands are calibrated in inch and foot pounds , there is a switch on my elbow to change between them . But something I experience drastically more here in South Carolina , than I ever saw in So.Cal. is relativity new cars and bikes with untouched components and bolts just completely corroded together ... Must be the year-round 99% humidity !!! And I'm sure you see the " My uncle Buck and his Friend fixed it , but it still don't work ..." (at that point my labor rate usually doubles ). Glenn Hey Glenn, here is a memory test! You recall working on any old jap bikes with phillips head 6mm screws holding things together that were allways rounded out! Hammer driven impact driver with a #3 bit!!!!! Man could they be a pain! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zippy Posted July 22, 2012 Report Share Posted July 22, 2012 Fair enough, I'm trying to help, not look for an argument, Niether am I, to be honest I thought 16lb was rather high and while I was tightening up mine I was sweating a bit A good indicator that something is not quite right would be that really worried feeling that it is just too tight. Just a side note on this thread, I am rebuilding my Honda TLR200 Reflex engine and nothing has been apart on this engine since 1986. (I know history of bike personally). Holy Crap every bolt was just TIGHT! busted a couple knuckles "popping" loose case cover and case bolts. Every bolt had me worried I would break the bolt before getting it loose. Speaking of the #3 phillips head screws, I left the oil pump attached just because those are what is holding it on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
axulsuv Posted July 22, 2012 Report Share Posted July 22, 2012 (edited) Hey Glenn, here is a memory test! You recall working on any old jap bikes with phillips head 6mm screws holding things together that were allways rounded out! Hammer driven impact driver with a #3 bit!!!!! Man could they be a pain! If I had a dime for every one that I've cut off , lefthanded drilled , or heli-coiled just to be able to do a minor repair ... And I've got Boxes full of all different size stainless allen head bolts and nuts and washers all neatly organized just for such ... So much cheaper to buy in bulk beforehand .... Edited July 22, 2012 by axulsuv Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
axulsuv Posted July 22, 2012 Report Share Posted July 22, 2012 A good indicator that something is not quite right would be that really worried feeling that it is just too tight. Just a side note on this thread, I am rebuilding my Honda TLR200 Reflex engine and nothing has been apart on this engine since 1986. (I know history of bike personally). Holy Crap every bolt was just TIGHT! busted a couple knuckles "popping" loose case cover and case bolts. Every bolt had me worried I would break the bolt before getting it loose. Speaking of the #3 phillips head screws, I left the oil pump attached just because those are what is holding it on. A good impact screwdriver with fresh bits will be your best friend ... Just remember to hold pressure on it when striking !! (but I know you know that ... ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
montytess Posted August 8, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 8, 2012 Wow, thanks for all the help. I was mistaking 8mm heads for the thread size. So they're really 6mm bolts (sorry, I'm new at this). NEXT ISSUE !!! Now all my new oil leaked out after one ride. I can see exactly where too, around the electrical wire plug coming out of the case and up into..... SO, sealing gasket you ask? Yes, I put in a new sealing gasket on the left-side case after draining old oil. But was I supposed to use a certain adhesive on both sides of it? Manual does not explain that well...or at all. It makes good sense to do so but I was being careful not to use something that could seep into the oil, then your engine, etc. So I used a TINY bit of grease to make it stick a bit. (Same grease used on the air filter). It didn't seal things up enough and the oil is leaking faster than my adult diapers when I just don't feel like changing them after I've had a 6-pack of Tab soda. Main Q: How do you seal up the left-side after an oil change??????? THANKS - MontyTessy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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