m82s Posted July 20, 2012 Report Share Posted July 20, 2012 Hi all, im new here and new to trials! i did join here a while ago but never bought a bike until now. Anyway, i have just got a very good condition for age fantic k-roo 212cc and ill try and get some pics up. Please can anyone give me any pointers as to what to check, look out for, advice topics elsewhere and more importantly a service manual. I have a wiring diagram and thats it. I dont think i have bought a duffer anyway. It came from a mechanic and the bike is not tampered with and the guy bought it because it was untouched but doesnt use it. From what i know it needs: attention to mono shock spring rear disc sticky clutch slightly drags when cold exhaust slight leak at back box joint but no signs of a clamp? the bike has brand new carb but choke has to be out for it to run i dont need to be told how to suck eggs or have anyone do all the legwork for me. Im just introducing myself and would pay for an email copy of a manual if needs be! i hope to have a happy time here and maybe ill try and ride the bike tomorrow - first time in 20 yrs and i didnt know how to ride then at 10 yrs old! .......scary thought! kind regards and thank you in advance for your help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m82s Posted July 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2012 Its a 212cc 1991 im told if this helps (probably will lol!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goudrons Posted July 20, 2012 Report Share Posted July 20, 2012 I had one of these a few years ago, quite a tall beast. Bought it as a project as the engine was cooked. Turns out the cooling arrangement isn't the best, what with the rad slung under the tank along the top tube, it doesn't get much air aprt from what it rising off the engine! Turned into a kettle when it got hot, spitting boiling coolant out of the cap all over your B*****ks. Seemed someone had run it like this and ruined the piston and bore, melting the hose directly under the head stock. The rebuild wasn't that painful from what I remember, think the upside down fork seals gave me the biggest problem. Bottom end and gearbox is standard Fantic stuff, so no real trouble. Bill Pye's your man for spares and advice, he may help with some sort of diagrams, I think line drawings of exploded parts is about the best you can get, manual wise, I never found anything better, but it's hardly needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goudrons Posted July 20, 2012 Report Share Posted July 20, 2012 http://www.nickandkaren.co.uk/frankfieldfantic.co.uk/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m82s Posted July 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2012 Thanks for all your help goudrons!! Most appreciated and the exploded diagram should really help out too if I get stuck. I only bought the bike yesterday and have not had chance to have a go as yet as I need to find somewhere in Leeds where I can have a quick go without been pestered. I'm aware of swaine and bumpys etc but never been and I know my bike isn't in riding condition as yet do to speak as I have the choke issue and clutch drag. I just need a field I think to get a feel for the bike to investigate its faults. I think sorting the clutch drag will be the biggest job for me. Will it be pretty much the same as all other trials for sorting this issue? Maybe that's a daft question! I'll have to see if anything looks visibly worn as I'm not too clued up but I have a pal who knows a bit. I'd read something about (well mostly newer bikes) having a dragging clutch being to do with residue on the clutch plates from manufacture or that this doesn't help and people strip them and clean them up to solve it, giving a very responsive clutch? I'm new to all this so please bare with me! Love the pics - same colours as mine. Is that you on the bike? Kind regards, martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goudrons Posted July 21, 2012 Report Share Posted July 21, 2012 (edited) Yes, it's me, when I was braver, slimmer and younger! The clutch drag may be due to being stood, but it's worth checking everything is in good order. Remove the clutch friction plates and check them for wear, renew if needed, yes there is a helpful guide in the Beta section (I think) about cleaning up the glue off the plates. Also check the inner edges of the clutch basket "fingers". Where the tabs around the outside of the friction plates fit in the slots of the basket, the tabs can often wear grooves on this edge causing them to stick as they should slip smoothly. A light file can clean these basket edges up. . Check the steel plates, are they bent or kinked, these can sometimes "cone" so they aren't flat anymore. If they look "blued" through heat, I light wipe over with some fine emery paper may clean them up. There's a rod and ball bearing that fits through the main shaft that operates the clutch, make sure the rod isn't bent. Oil up the cable (I think is was still cable on these) and the correct gearbox oil and you should be away. Automatic Transmission Fluid may make it feel lighter, but expect a bit more clutch noise and PJ1 do a clutch tuner fluid that works pretty well. If it's been stood a while and only runs on choke, it's highly likely the pilot jet is blocked in the carb with gummed up fuel. A good carb clean is needed. Edited July 21, 2012 by goudrons Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m82s Posted July 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2012 Wow! That's a wicked amount of info mate - very much appreciated!!! Yes my worry is I'm nearly 16 stone 30yr old so not so agile anymore haha! I did think oh pants when I saw how slim you were on that bike! That info on the clutch and carb is brill and I'll check all that. Correct - the bike has been stood for maybe a year and has a full brand new carb fitted by a mechanic but I'm unsure when so it could be grimed up as you say. I'll try and do some photos of my findings. Think I've seen the beta post somewhere RE clutch cleaning and polishing etc so I'll do a search on that and come back to you. Another job is to find someone to do a mould for me off the seat mudguard and possibly make on out of a better abs plastic or something so I can store the original which is in great condition currently for its age and source some tank fairings thingy mabobs as mine are absent Speak soon. Massive thanks again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m82s Posted July 31, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 31, 2012 Thanks for all the help Goudrons the other week! i have had a little drive out and met bill on person. He did me a great deal on two rolling chassis and got a few other new bits. Bit of shame as one or two things are wrong and maybe it was a hicup on one of our behalfs. Bill mentioned the exhausts were changed in 92 to 3 part systems although i believe mine is a 91 and has the manifold and centre in one peice. I got my exhaust rubber bung for the backbox joint but the manifold gasket he gave me has a square cut out and a four bolt mounting. Mine is two bolt with a round hole in adiamond shape gasket maybe ill make one rather than source an original. Any ideas on which type of gasket material is prefered? Bills was 'paper' type and v thin! A few more questions if you wouldnt mind please anyone.... What parts and order should my rear wheel axle have please as all the 3 bikes i now have seem to have different spindles and parts. the axle i intended on using with original yellow hub (looking from rear of bike) has the ball/disk with hole in it for inserting a locking tool (?), then the wheel spacer/guider with markings on, tapered collar and then hub. axle pokes out of hub on brake caliper side and has a spacer, then caliper frame, one washer, rear arm and another marked guider/spacer thingy mabob!, washer and nut - is this correct and is any washers missing please? my brake caliper seems a little on the angle and isnt free wheeling brilliantly. im also unsure as to how much tension should be on the chain/markings on wheel guiders as i just attempted to seat it as far back as possible but i dont want to cause future issues. i have not manage to ride it yet as its not finished. any tips on bleeding brakes - rear is the one requiring doing. I got another full caliper off another bike as mine was too much hassle to refurb at the minute and can wait. Also, there is a 'nipple' guider on the caliper housing which i assume slides into the slot in the rear arm and can slide to suit wheel position? makes sense but none of my bikes had the nipple in the slot in the inside of the arm. it was always sat above and tight against the top of the arm? i assume i need a frame to house the air filter as after closer inspection at home, i realised mine has holes in it (new from bill) and nothing to hold it in its guider. I assume the wheel should sit exact central over the U shape of the rear arm? mine looks offset hence rough free wheel? i came accross a site that does reproduction plastics although i might refurb mine and was thinking of kevlar cloth on one set? hope it wont look chavy! sorry for all the newbie questions here guys. i just want to get into this myself and enjoy working on things as im sure any garage will want to strip it to bits and start again or close the door in my face! not bill though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m82s Posted August 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2012 Now im baffled and give in! i didnt want to upset and start another thread but im confused. I have the exact same looking bike as what goudrons posted in his kind pics above but having spoken with bill pye at frankfield fantic, we have come to the conclusion (without him seeing it) that mine is not a 1991 kroo 212cc!! so what is it? i will try and get some pics up but its identical in colour and engine looks as to the one above but bill sent me some parts and they do not fit having confirmed again he says they are for a 1991 kroo 212cc After a discusion and brief newbie description from myself with bill, he tells me that mine isnt a 212cc as mine has a non liquid cooled engine as soon as i mentioned my manifold is a one peice mani and centre and a diamond shape 2 bolt mani gasket. Twin this with the air filter not fitting that he gave me, we are baffled until we meet with the bike which is a bit of trek for me and id like to find out more before i have to do the drive again with all my bike and belongings in tow. Please can anyone shed some light. I think it might be a 250 2 stroke looking at goudrons pic. he he could shed some light then that would be a massive help! thanks in advance goudrons! my bike has: usd forks, hydro clutch, twin disc brakes, mono shock, blue engine (i think as repainted), yellow hubs. doubt this sheds much light but please shout up if i can add anymore detail for you. bill said dont put your eggs in one basket - it might be an engine transplant from another size machine yet! i have issues with the bike but im not sure whether to start another thread or not unless people would like to answer my carb questions etc here. cheers all! i await you to put me out of my misery! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m82s Posted August 8, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 8, 2012 http://s329.photobucket.com/albums/l373/martin82scott/fantic%20k-roo/ here is the bike guys. sorry for delay. be most appreciated if anyone can comment. i believe its got to be a 91 or 92 with 91 plastics looking at it although bill pye said it cant be watercooled with a 2 bolt manifold gasket Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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