pindie Posted August 28, 2012 Report Share Posted August 28, 2012 Try dropping the fluid level to halfway in the MC. Check you have freeplay at the lever where it meets the plunger for the MC. Oil the lever pivot. It amazes me how often this can get forgotten and it makes things feel better especially when chasing problems. Dab a tad of coppaslip on the pad retaining pins so the pads can rattle back and forth better as well. Just don't get any type of lube on the disc or pad material! Does it drag from cold or once you move and it gets hot? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theflyingferret Posted August 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 29, 2012 Evening lads... Copemech...you mention the O-Rings on the "Pucks", I'm not familiar with the term...do you mean the Piston Seals in the Caliper or some O-Rings in the Master Cyl? Pindie, it drags cold, hot and anywhere in between. I did manage to improve it tad just now. It's just a bit of a dodgy test really but.... - The Pads probably have 75% of their original meat left on them. - That being said I noticed that the Pistons moved more freely in the Caliper the deeper seated in the cylinders they were. - Reason for this - Perhaps the further they extend out the Pistons become the "ball" in a ball and socket joint and you don't have a perfectly concentric assembly any more so they hang up. - So, this being my suspicion I super-glued some washers on to the back of one of the Pads...they act as a Spacer to keep the Pistons deeply set in the Caliper Cylinders but ensure that the Pad still contacts the Disc. - I then spaced the Caliper on the Forks so that the Disc was offset from central to ensure both sets of of Pistons were deeply seated and required about the same amount of travel to meet the Disc. - Then the usual fluid filling and bleeding procedure...actually, I've done this so many times now that I don't even need to bleed the system anymore! The result? It still drags, but not as severely. I plan on giving it a quick ride on Thursday night mainly to set up the carb so we'll see how the brake is. The Caliper will need to come back off as I don't trust those Washers to stay put for too long. I could be on to something but perhaps it's all B*****ks...! I'm assuming I can buy a kit for the Caliper and Master Cyl if needed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pindie Posted August 29, 2012 Report Share Posted August 29, 2012 I love the washer idea! I reckon your in te right ball park though. Caliper pistons don't have O rings but I think that is what copemech means (the piston seals are normally a lipped one). You may have a tiny bit of wear in several components which all added together are creating the issue. Hopefully your washer trick may help? I know my bike much prefers new pads. Soon as they get down to 50% things are not quite as nice. It is not much better than your washer idea but at it would not fall out if you = Get some thin tin and draw around your pad as a stencil, cut it out, drill holes and trim to fit and fit between the pad and piston but you will have a retaining pin hole so they won't dissapear? You could also just get some new pads and try that? Keep the part worns as emergency spares? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl ekblom Posted August 29, 2012 Report Share Posted August 29, 2012 Somtimes this helps: Remove the caliper. Take the pads out. Spray around the pistons with WD40 or similar, Carefully avoid to get drops on on the brake disk. Dry and assemble. /Carl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted August 31, 2012 Report Share Posted August 31, 2012 Evening lads... Copemech...you mention the O-Rings on the "Pucks", I'm not familiar with the term...do you mean the Piston Seals in the Caliper or some O-Rings in the Master Cyl? Pindie, it drags cold, hot and anywhere in between. I did manage to improve it tad just now. It's just a bit of a dodgy test really but.... - The Pads probably have 75% of their original meat left on them. - That being said I noticed that the Pistons moved more freely in the Caliper the deeper seated in the cylinders they were. - Reason for this - Perhaps the further they extend out the Pistons become the "ball" in a ball and socket joint and you don't have a perfectly concentric assembly any more so they hang up. - So, this being my suspicion I super-glued some washers on to the back of one of the Pads...they act as a Spacer to keep the Pistons deeply set in the Caliper Cylinders but ensure that the Pad still contacts the Disc. - I then spaced the Caliper on the Forks so that the Disc was offset from central to ensure both sets of of Pistons were deeply seated and required about the same amount of travel to meet the Disc. - Then the usual fluid filling and bleeding procedure...actually, I've done this so many times now that I don't even need to bleed the system anymore! The result? It still drags, but not as severely. I plan on giving it a quick ride on Thursday night mainly to set up the carb so we'll see how the brake is. The Caliper will need to come back off as I don't trust those Washers to stay put for too long. I could be on to something but perhaps it's all B*****ks...! I'm assuming I can buy a kit for the Caliper and Master Cyl if needed? Yes I mean the piston seals in the caliper. They need to flex to allow piston return. The only move slightly, yet if they are getting old they may not allow the pads to release fully. Yes, kits are available. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theflyingferret Posted April 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2013 I finally got the bike set up properly: 2000 Rev 3 - 270cc Ign. Timing: Stock - 7.5mm Gap from right edge of stator Plate Slot to right side of Screw Head outer diameter. Petrol: Avgas 100LL Carb: Dellorto VHST26 Idle Jet: 36 Main Jet: 118 There can't be many year 1 Rev 3s with this setup out there but I thought I'd post just in case this can help somebody. Bike is awesome now, very responsive, smooth, very powerful and revs like it never has in my ownership....very happy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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