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Dogbone Linkage 2010+ Maintenance Advice ?


hugo
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Starting 2010, Sherco uses what they call "friction bearings" in the dogbone linkages instead of needle bearings...I am not familiar with these.

I was wondering what's the best way to maintain them in good shape?

I read this type of bearing is sometime self-lubricated (oilite), but I am not sure if that is the type Sherco is using in the dogbones ?

When disassembling, they seemed quite "dry" (but they are moving freely).

Thanks for any tips/advice.

Hugo

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The new bearings are made up of 3 layers, a steel backing, a porous bronze core with a final coating of PTFE and lead.

They are designed to run dry, the ptfe and the lead are very low in friction but if you want to grease them I can't see it doing any harm.

As regards to maintenance I just replace the bearings as soon as the PTFE/Lead coating has come off, which seams to be about every 6 months for me riding once a week. I also give mine a quick spray with a water dispersant after washing my bike to stop the steel bushing going rusty.

You can find the large dog bone bearing here and the small dog bone bearing here

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The new bearings are made up of 3 layers, a steel backing, a porous bronze core with a final coating of PTFE and lead.

They are designed to run dry, the ptfe and the lead are very low in friction but if you want to grease them I can't see it doing any harm.

As regards to maintenance I just replace the bearings as soon as the PTFE/Lead coating has come off, which seams to be about every 6 months for me riding once a week. I also give mine a quick spray with a water dispersant after washing my bike to stop the steel bushing going rusty.

You can find the large dog bone bearing here and the small dog bone bearing here

Chris is a wealth if info at times. A allways wondered a bit about the choice of the plain bearings over a oilite bronze, yet all along I did figure it all came down to "stiction" issues, although there have been reports in the past from those who had done direct conversions to bronze without issue.

As it even seems to me to be a bit odd, if the bearings are indeed designed to run dry by the PTFE induced babbitt surface, then some sort of dry lube such as LPS 1 may actually be the best at keeping things going vs a grease that may attract more dirt and such. Just a thought.

Are they still using the HK roller on the brake pedal? That has been a big pain in the past, and mine went with bronze a long time ago, still there and working fine.

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Thanks Chris for the information. I've noticed small patches of deposit that I've cleaned and then re-assembled "dry". Will keep an eye on the coating's condition over time.

Copemech: the brake lever now use an oilite bronze bush. HK roller's gone.

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