marky g Posted January 3, 2004 Report Share Posted January 3, 2004 Anybody else getting water in the Airbox? Past two trails now I've found water has got inside my airbox, the filter looks to be in good nick, I put Silkolene filter oil on it so I doubt water is getting through it. The airbox is in good condition with no cracks or holes....the fliter is held inplace by a black plastic 'clamp' is all I can describe it as, it's just a push fit over the foam filter. My old TY250 has a similar setup but the Yam is held in place by a large rubber clip/band...should the Sherco have this too?? Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charliechitlins Posted January 3, 2004 Report Share Posted January 3, 2004 Mine was a team bike and there were 2 'drywall' screws holding that bezel down...I still use them, but I really don't think it's necessary. There is also a piece of automotive weatherstrip between the airbox and muffler...that seems to be a useful addition. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bikespace Posted January 4, 2004 Report Share Posted January 4, 2004 I've just got rid of an 02 GasGas, so maybe I've become immune to water in the airbox, but my 04 Sherco is pretty damned good for it. A good soaking in filter oil - Is your black 'clamp' held down tight by a metal clip? Mines just a thin metal clip that hooks under the frame and screws in to hold the black plastic down tight. Do you seal between the mudguard and the frame (under the mudguard and put a big chunk of sealant in gap between the mudguard/frame/silencer, AND a strip of sealant al the way down between the silencer and the airbox AND if you're still getting some in, sealant under the plastics on the left hand side between the plastics and the airbox? Is it getting in when you wash it, or when you're riding? I just use a tube of kitchen sealant and replace every week. A tube lasts about 6 months. Gaz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
munch Posted January 4, 2004 Report Share Posted January 4, 2004 ive done some very wet trials , steams, deep water etc and have never had water in the airbox. but i have sealed around the exh and top tube when i first got the bikes . do you check before washing or after? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne thais Posted January 4, 2004 Report Share Posted January 4, 2004 David Chaves of Sherco USA recommends that you use a piece of duct tape at the air box to fender junction. There is a Tech Tip on the www.rypusa.com site that provides information on how to do this. A couple of questions: 1. How is the rear fender retained? Are you using the stock 2 bolts or are you using zip ties? 2. Does the fender lip overlap the airbox or is the finder lip missing. Some riders eliminate the rear fixing bolts and replace them with zip ties or plastic buttons. It is recommended that you retain the factory bolts and use a piece of duct tape to seal this joint. If the fender to airbox joint is not tight, water can enter the air box at this location. The tech tip is called "Engine stops running in wet conditions". http://www.rypusa.com/sherco/manual.htm Wayne Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marky g Posted January 4, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2004 Not sure if the water is getting before the wash of after...I've never looked I'm always a bit carefull with the jet washer around that area, My bike does already have the automotive weather strip between the exhaust silencer and the airbox. There is nothing securing the 'airbox lid' down at all, I think I will look at securing this. I must admit I don't have any sealer or duct tape between the mudgaurd and the frame...but I will from now on . Wayne, I will check the link out about water stopping the engine...thanks, I still use the OE bolts to secure the mudguard to the bike....but I was thinking of using zip ties.......is it not a good idea with the ties?. The mudguard lip is actually fitting between the frame and the top of the airbox, not the underside of the airbox! thanks guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sherpa Posted January 4, 2004 Report Share Posted January 4, 2004 That Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne thais Posted January 4, 2004 Report Share Posted January 4, 2004 Zip ties / tie wraps are great for securing wires, cables etc. Many riders use them to hold on their rear fenders. I used to use plastic automotive fasteners until I crashed and knocked the fender off. Had to ride back to the truck with the fender flopping, the air box filled up with crud. The same thing can happen with the zip ties, even if you carry spares. I now use the factory bolts. Fenders are much cheaper than an engine overhaul. A good idea is to buy a stock fender without deals (they are fairly cheap)and use it for practice. Another comment: When washing the bike water CAN get into the airbox. I recommend putting a piece of good old duct tape over the filter retainer. I also oil soak a rag and place it on top of the duct tape and then reinstall the fender. I don't like to take the airbox off. If you do not cover the air box when you wash the bike you should always pull the airfilter and make sure there is no water inside the airbox before you start the bike. Wayne Sherpa, can you send me a picture of your arrangement? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sherpa Posted January 4, 2004 Report Share Posted January 4, 2004 Wayne, not a problem. I'll have to take the pic's first. As far as the zip ties go. I carry spares along with an Allen wrench under the handlebar crash pad. I've drilled the front hole in the fender large enough to accommodate a tight fitting grommet. This way, if I get over my head, or do something stupid, the zip ties will break allowing the fender to pop loose. This doesn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted January 6, 2004 Report Share Posted January 6, 2004 As stated, the sealing and placement at the rear fender/airbox/muffler is very important no matter how you do it, DO IT! It think the thin plastic shield between the carb and airbox(newer bikes) is only helpful in the most extreme riding conditions. If I ever make it to the Scottish I will reinstall mine but for now it is just too much of a pain to deal with. The biggest problem is washing the bike as it seems that no matter how careful, water will find its way around or under and get in. Once this happens it just goes right through the foam filter as oil does not stop the water, and it will take fine dirt particles with it. So ALWAYS pull the filter and look/clean inside the box after washing and be sure to look FAR down in the very bottom corner. A rod or such with a paper towel will reach it. I use a 1/4 in brass welding rod. The alternative told to me by my local dealer is to just remove the fender and tank, block the filter and exhaust and wash everything properly! That works too and takes the same time to perform. I can also tell you from experience that if you fail to ck the box, dirt of sufficient size can make its way through and cause the throttle slide to stick, usually wide open! It WILL get your attention, as the brakes on the bike are not really designed to stop a 2.9 running WFO! It is difficult to kill the bike in gear when this happens and even more difficult ot reach the kill button when you are in about third gear! Another tip. Water will also find its way in the magneto cover and get trapped causing corrosion problems. Coating the electrics with clear coat helps but you need more. I drill a small hole (1/16th in.) in the bottom of the plastic cover. This allows anything that gets in to get out and moisture to vent and evaporate. The hole is so small that the rate of water entry through the hole even in deep water is insignifigant as long as you are not playing submarine with the bike, which I do not intend to do. I know some may not agree with me on this mod but it is simple and it works. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marky g Posted January 6, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2004 Thanks for the tips guys, I've now postioned the rear guard under the airbox and I've used silicon sealer to cover the gaps. Hopefully no water will get in now!....so far this is the only minus point I've found with the Sherco. Funny thing is my 1991 TY250 never gets water in the Airbox, no matter how much of a soaking it gets.........good design I suppose Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waynus Posted January 9, 2004 Report Share Posted January 9, 2004 I dont know if I'm covering old ground but dont forget to seal off the top of the rear shock with silicone sealant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telecat Posted January 10, 2004 Report Share Posted January 10, 2004 I'm Sealing around any gaps under the read guard with Silicone sealer. (125 04 model). I would say tho that if anybody does do a guard similar to that on the Beta's that basically blocks mud going forward I would be very interested. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charliechitlins Posted January 10, 2004 Report Share Posted January 10, 2004 Another tip. Water will also find its way in the magneto cover and get trapped causing corrosion problems. Coating the electrics with clear coat helps but you need more.I drill a small hole (1/16th in.) in the bottom of the plastic cover. This allows anything that gets in to get out and moisture to vent and evaporate. The hole is so small that the rate of water entry through the hole even in deep water is insignifigant as long as you are not playing submarine with the bike, which I do not intend to do. I know some may not agree with me on this mod but it is simple and it works. Cheers It is a very good idea to vent the mag. If it's not vented, it can also suck water past the seal if the engine is hot enough when you hit water...a vacuum forms inside because of the temp change. I heated up a #2 phillips screwdriver and ran it through the rubber block right next to where the wires exit and siliconed in a piece of vent line that I ran right alongside the wires and up under the tank. Very sanitary, and a little air circulation keeps it from rusting in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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