lee99780 Posted August 21, 2012 Report Share Posted August 21, 2012 I've got really bad drag on my clutch,I know this is common on these, but I couldn't even do a section for it stalling at weekend, it's got atf in from when I got it, if I change it to light gear oil will I have to change the clutch?will the plates be contaminatedand swell? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordi Posted August 21, 2012 Report Share Posted August 21, 2012 I've got really bad drag on my clutch,I know this is common on these, but I couldn't even do a section for it stalling at weekend, it's got atf in from when I got it, if I change it to light gear oil will I have to change the clutch?will the plates be contaminatedand swell? Sorry, but clutch drag is not common, its something thats wrong with your adjustment or setup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tankygsy Posted August 21, 2012 Report Share Posted August 21, 2012 (edited) Swollen clutch plates from using ATF oil is most likely cause but as mentioned above could also be clutch setup or a dodgy master cylinder / slave cylinder seals not releasing hydraulic pressure - or a combination of things. Check the hydraulics first and change the oil (change it twice with a run inbetween to flush the ATF out) and see if that helps. Failing this you might want to check the clutch pack width, you'll need a new gasket for the clutch cover so you may as well replace slave cylinder seals at the same time - whatch out for the needle roller clutch realease bearing when you remove the clutch cover, these sometimes fall apart when you dismantle the clutch cover - and tiny little needle rollers can drop into the clutch housing - not good if left unnoticed! I always found my 280cc gasser had an excessively progressive and draggy clutch on ATF. It is also a bit draggy on light gear oil even when the clutch tolerances are set as per the manual. I set my clutch / clutch release levers to the lower end of the range (about 15.75mm IIRC) as i find it is much less progressive, much like an on off switch and it doesn't drag at all. There is a video on YouTube that explains clutch checking and adjusting procedures which you may find usefull. It can be a bit trial and error to get the clutch exactly how you want it, you may want to get some different thickness steel clutch plates to try out, if you go this route you'll also need a few spare clutch cover gaskets - if you are careful you can reuse the gaskets twice while testing different clutch settings if you don't tighten up the clutch cover bolts to the full torque setting (so as not to squish the gasket too much). You can torque them up tight when you are happy with the clutch setting. Edited August 21, 2012 by tankygsy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smalley250 Posted August 22, 2012 Report Share Posted August 22, 2012 ATF does not swell clutch plates. Ive used it for years n never had any issues. ATF is by default desgined to work on multiple clutch plates under extreme loads. All my cluches have lasted years and never had drag. Most likley is air in system or a leak within the hydraulic system. You could check the clucth basket for signs or damage or wear. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lee99780 Posted August 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2012 I'm hoping it is my adjustment, I only meant would the plates swell if I went from atf to light gear oil, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilh Posted August 22, 2012 Report Share Posted August 22, 2012 Gas Gas clutch drag not common?? LOL! gasgasuk reccommend dextron 2. or putoline light if you have a DP clutch fitted. apparantly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmseven Posted August 22, 2012 Report Share Posted August 22, 2012 First off you dont say if this is something that has just started happening or has always been like it? When was the oil last changed you say its been in since you have had it? Check you have 1-1.5mm freeplay at the lever what year is your bike? ATF is fine in most but will swell if you have a particular clutch plate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sting32 Posted August 24, 2012 Report Share Posted August 24, 2012 ALL Gas Gas "pro" engined trials bikes, have a little bit of drag to them, I think it is by design (Montesa and beta dont have this) and when you pull the clutch and everything is "set right" the bike will have a slight drag or not easily free-wheeling say to backup or find neutral. ATF VS 5w30 oil: Using ATF, means the clutch is a really really grippy touchy on or off type clutch by comparison. In another way to describe it, the clutch seems touchy, more like on/off switch than say, if you use the 5w30, I use synthetic from Yamaha, then the clutch has some degrees of grabbyness. when you use ATF and clutches drag, they drag more with ATF. This is from my experience, since my 2004 pro 300's. Add to all of this, the oil gets contaminated quickly with clutch particles and anything else. So, when it drags more than it did, "last time" or anything out of normal you think, If I rid your bike, I'd look at your sight glass, and I BET the oil has been in there a while. it takes less than a quart of oil, something like 350-400cc's of oil, so change the friggin oil every 5-10 hours of engine run time. it is soo cheap to do so. DO NOT OVERFILL, overfilling can add to the feeling of dragging clutches. Yes, I am mad at myself, I cannot recall exact cc amount and that is why it is written in PAINT on my toolbox, so I dont have to guess, and I do it almost every other weekend. The sight glass should easily be half full, with the bike held perfectly straight up, both tires on ground (NOT ON SOME CENTER STAND) when you are through filling and letting the oil fill both chabers. IMHO, if you get oil to sight glass, you need to start the engine, for a second and let "rest" after filling to check this level, as it fills the outside case, and between center cases with a small opening between them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samy Posted August 27, 2012 Report Share Posted August 27, 2012 (edited) Not to say this applies to Gas Gas's, but a few weeks ago i put ATF in my Sherco due to recommendations (and because it was cheaper) but i didnt like it. The clutch was sticky/grabby and the gearbox felt very notchy/ratchety and noisy - it was VERY hard to change gears and get into neutral. A few times in sections i'd pull the clutch in to feather around a tight turn and... nothing, the bike kept charging for a split second before pulling up. I would say i lost a few points due to the clutch action and came 4th or something for the day. Last week i warmed up the bike, drained the ATF (which came out like water), put Motorex back in and took it for a ride straight away. It was like a whole new bike, back to the way it was before ATF. The clutch was smooth, predictable and BEAUTIFUL and the gearbox no longer felt ratchety but felt rock solid, and i could select neutral on the fly. This weekend just passed, i competed and came 1st. I finally felt at one with the bike and it all came together for a great ride. I know my mate's Ossa's clutch felt better with ATF but this was not my experience with my Sherco. It may be the same with your Gas Gas. cheers Edited August 27, 2012 by samy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.