coxy Posted September 9, 2012 Report Share Posted September 9, 2012 Hi Been out on my bike today and rode the first lap, bike was running fine. After a couple of laps the bike starting cutting out (around ten times over the course of the trial sometimes with revs on and sometimes on tickover) after the bike cut out it would take alot of kicking the bike to get it started again. When the bike was switched off normally it would start again first or second kick. Took the plug out at the end of the trial and it had alot of black soot around it. My two questions are; What is the cause of my bike cutting out like it was? Ive got a keihin carb on the bike (300 racing 2010) what is the standard mixture setting for the carb? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nigav Posted September 9, 2012 Report Share Posted September 9, 2012 what way did the bike cut out? just die instantly like a possible electrical fault or sort of burble and linger before dieing? Simplest things to check 1st is that your fuel tank cap is venting correctly and not creating an airlock and the fuel tap filter isnt blocked up. Could be fuel starvation? Full carb clean could be a good start too. Check the float height and valve isnt sticking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coxy Posted September 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2012 It just died as if the bike had stalled. Ive got home and cleaned the carb out and that all seems to be fine and there is fuel there as the bike was running ok apart from the few times it cut out and it would do it randomly. I was wondering if it could possibly be something to do with the plug as the bike would be hot when it would cut out and then with it taking several kicks to start could the plug of cooled again to be working correctly again? Just a thought Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sting32 Posted September 11, 2012 Report Share Posted September 11, 2012 It just died as if the bike had stalled. Ive got home and cleaned the carb out and that all seems to be fine and there is fuel there as the bike was running ok apart from the few times it cut out and it would do it randomly. I was wondering if it could possibly be something to do with the plug as the bike would be hot when it would cut out and then with it taking several kicks to start could the plug of cooled again to be working correctly again? Just a thought Cheers When in doubt, you should carry a spare plug with you anyhow, lol. so try the new plug. BTW, I rode and worked on a friends bike that would run 1/4 throttle perfectly, but go past that it would stall and buck you over the bars almost, lol. I swore it was a fuel problem, after a couple hours, of dicking with the carb and retrying, I finally tried a new plug and it freaking ran perfect. that was the only time I ever had a plug that did anything but fire or refuse to fire at all, this one refused to fire "quickly" or rapidly I guess... Live and learn I guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tazz229 Posted September 18, 2012 Report Share Posted September 18, 2012 Disconnect the cut off switch and try that. Take the plug out connect it to the plug cap, kick it over several times and make sure you have a constant spark every kick. If not..... Check the earth connections on the coil. Try a new plug. Check for any chaffing on th HT lead. Check for any chaffing on the wires coming from the stator. Sounds electrical but..... Strip the carb blast out all the jets and holes with either carb cleaner or compressed air, or both. If none of that works goto the shop and buy a hammer and a condom..... If it doesn't work hit it. If it still doesn't work f@$% it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sting32 Posted September 18, 2012 Report Share Posted September 18, 2012 (edited) Spark plugs, really should be tan colored. Black means rich, or oil mixture in fuel could, just could be wrong. Jets in the carb, set the base altitude that the bike operates in. Plus you can change where the needle is on the slide to find tune along with those jets... Lastly the air screw (on the outside of carb) should be 1.5 turns out, for a starting point. This should Only affect the 2 things... Just IDLE though. 1, is the idle, because it enrichens or leans the idle circuit. 2, engine's response to closed to open throttle. In layterms, does it hesitate? if it does you must adjust. Age of engine on a 2010? I would think this means rich mixture, like main or pilot. I dont know enough to suggest remedy, other than contact other local guys, find out what they have, dealers should know your area as well, and suggest the right combinations, and supply them if needed. Edited September 18, 2012 by sting32 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tazz229 Posted September 18, 2012 Report Share Posted September 18, 2012 Just had a thought it could be something as simple as a bit of water in the fuel! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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