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Rear Wheel


bondy
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If you use the standard spacer it should be OK.

When the wheel was rebuild did the wheel got new spokes / rims or were the spokes

deassembled and mounted again, because the hub rebuild swappt against one with

steel liners ...?

There is an offset between hub and rim which must be maintained when you respoke the wheel.

(OFF TOPIC: As a reminder, thrust washer ... )

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hi patrick yes the hub as been relined. and the wheel was done by a wheel builder. i have a speedo on the wheel may be the spacers or not the same as the standard one. but if i go back to standard spacer then i wont be abel to have the speedo on?

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The wheel needs to be dished with whatever spacers are going to be used. I used to build mountain bike wheels and the principle is exactly the same. If there was a 3mm spacer missing on one side for example then the wheel will end up 3mm to close to that side.

The wheel may not always be dead centre in the hub.... But will be dead centre in the axle.

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hi tazz am taking the wheel off to check the spacers i might just put the standard one back on for now to see if that makes a diffrance. affer all i dont really need a speedo. i was thinking of puting it on the road but am unsure need to take the motor back out today to have one of the stud removed. then i can put a new one in.and put the motor back together. once its up and running then ill sort the other littel jobs. am buying some new shocks but not sure witch ones to buy ive been looking at the magical ones wich look nice the other thing is the size ive got new njbs on at the moment 340mm but am abit on the heavy side. so was thinkind off 350mm or 360mm but would a bigger size be ok on a 199a?

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hi tazz am taking the wheel off to check the spacers i might just put the standard one back on for now to see if that makes a diffrance. affer all i dont really need a speedo. i was thinking of puting it on the road but am unsure need to take the motor back out today to have one of the stud removed. then i can put a new one in.and put the motor back together. once its up and running then ill sort the other littel jobs. am buying some new shocks but not sure witch ones to buy ive been looking at the magical ones wich look nice the other thing is the size ive got new njbs on at the moment 340mm but am abit on the heavy side. so was thinkind off 350mm or 360mm but would a bigger size be ok on a 199a?

To be perfectly honest with you although I had a 350 Sherpa once upon a time I have no idea!

I just happened to know a little bit about wheel building. Sorry I can't be more help.

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When you respoke a wheel make sure you have the right distance between the outer edges of the hub to the rim.

Often the hub doesn't sit centered in the swing arm or fork. The rear hub of the Bultaco f.e. sits towards the right side

and the front hub towards the left side. To get the wheels, (rims), aligned the rim doesn't sit centered in the hub.

I would not try to change the position of the rear hub with spacers as then you might get a problem with the chain

which then might not be aligned, anymore, (front and rear sprocket should sit in alignment).

As you have two Bultacos measure the distance between the hub and the rim of your other Bultaco Sherpa

and then compare the measurements with the rear hub which has been respoked.

Measurements:

hub.jpg

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hello patrick the wheel was done by a wheel builder so i dont think theres any problems with the hub i think its the spacers what i used that came with the speedo ive took the wheel off. ive took the engin out yesterday.and am taking it to have the broken stud removed tomorrow. once thats done i can put the new stud in. and put the barrol and cylinder head back togther so am hoping to have it all sorted soon

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If the wheel builder dismantle the old spokes and mounted the new ones OK,

But if he got the hub and rim seperated and rebuilded the whell then, how should he knew the dimensions.

(I once had the same problem with my KTM during rebuild, when I mounted the rear wheel the knobbies touched

the swing arm which they should normally not do. By doing measurements I figured out the rims where not centred

towards the swing arm, the rim had to move around 12mm off the center of the hub to get in the center of the swing

arm and in line with the front wheel.)

DSC07874.JPG

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well ill have to wait and see i got it done by bultaco uk so i shouldnt think they would get it wrong. am most certain its the space on the peedo ill find out when i put the standard oe back on. with what you have told me i hope it is only the spacer because i dont want to be paying someone toput it right. ill keep you posted. ps just to add the tyre is not touching the swing arm.

Edited by bondy
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It is possible to do yourself... If your gonna take it back to a wheel builder then you may as well have a try first you might just save yourself a few quid.

All you need to do is tighten the spokes on the side you want to pull the wheel.

For example if your trying to pull the wheel left then start at the valve and go say clockwise round the wheel, loosen the right nipple half a turn, then tighten the left nipple half a turn. Keep on doing that one by one until you get back to the valve.

Keep repeating that until the rim is centred.

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hello tazz thanks for the info ive just orderd a new spacer from bultaco uk. so am gonner try that first just took me barrol today to be rebored had to also order a new piton how much runing in time will i have to run it in?

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There's all sorts of conflicting info about running in a 2 stroke but as a general guide....

Fresh premix.

10-15mins of riding around using no more than half throttle. Try to use all the rev range up to half throttle.

Let it cool for an hour. Should be able to comfortably touch exhaust and engine.

10-15mins of riding around using about 60% throttle again try to use the rev range.

Let it cool for an hour same as above.

10-15mins of riding around using 75% throttle.

Let it cool for an hour same as above.

Then you should be good to go!

Maybe hold off prolonged full throttle for a short while.

Some people say use a heavier premix for running in (more oil) but in my opinion it should be run in with the premix its intended for.

Remember to re torque head bolts too!

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cheers tazz i have the torque settings think there about 12nm ill do it in 5nm at a time i get worrid when it comes to doing the head. ive just had all the threads retaped. i wont be rushing into doing it nice and steady these bays need alot of tlc. ive got the steel clutch plates in her at themoment but i have the newer fibre ones from bultaco uk wich i had in a motor i strip so may put them in.

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