nedrapier Posted September 19, 2012 Report Share Posted September 19, 2012 I've put a decent chunk down on a 2010 250 already, so I'm already fairly committed. I've had a spin round the car park, and it seemed OK, but I'm new to trials and don't know if there's anything specific to look for, particular to trials bikes or this model, beyond the standard wheel bearing wobble, brake & clutch check sort of thing. (for example, I thought the exhaust sounded lively and poppy, but I've read today that might be a bad thing!) I'm buying it mainly on the word of the dealer that it's in good nick, good history etc. He's a reputable dealer, so I'm sure it'll be grand. He's hardly local, though, so it would be very good to be able to raise any issues while I'm there, rather than at long distance after the event. So what should I look for? Any hints, tips and facts gratefully received! Normally I'd take along a knowledgeable mate, but I don't have one for trials bikes! Cheers, Ed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fatbastard Posted September 19, 2012 Report Share Posted September 19, 2012 If you have had a good look the same as you would another bike your not far off. Usual things are wheel bearings, head stock bearings , lower shock bushes/linkage , check the shock . Check tyres are good if he says there good for practicing with that means there shagged. Are leavers ok and brakes working does it need new grips. Nothing bank breaking but it all adds up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pindie Posted September 20, 2012 Report Share Posted September 20, 2012 Don't panic. If the bike is clean and tidy and not bashed around you should find any bits are just consumables and once you work through it all you will have an ace bike. Bent, wobbly or clonking bits are a bad sign. If the exhoust pops and bangs it could be several thing but most likely the bikes been lifted using the silencer and this has made the joint leak. New o rings and re fit should cure it - might as well re pack it at the same time. Tyres, chains, sprockets, bearings and brake pads will always need doing on a second hand bike. At least when done YOU know when they have been done. Buy it, ride it and take time to work out whats feels not right. Make sure the dealer will let you come back within a month or so if you have major issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pistonbroken Posted September 20, 2012 Report Share Posted September 20, 2012 When I got my 2010 evo, as has been mentioned previously , the suspension linkage bearings were knackered and they were indeed about £60 ish . Also the swing arm bearings were also goosed , so another £ 60 ish . The suspension squeeked when moving so it gave an indication before I took it apart !! And then the usual chain , sprockets , tyres etc. All in all about £ 300 ish and everythings been done . Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pindie Posted September 20, 2012 Report Share Posted September 20, 2012 Whats it like pistonbroken? Are you happy with it? I had the same with my Rev 3 but once all those bits are sorted it feels like new again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nedrapier Posted September 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2012 Thanks for the advice, all duly noted. I also did a bit more searching after I posted and found this little nugget too: http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/39731-age-of-bike-tips-for-buying-2nd-hand/ Interesting point about the exhaust, pindie. The guy who took it out of the shop for me lifted it by the exhaust and I wondered at the time if it was a good idea. Cheers again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pistonbroken Posted September 21, 2012 Report Share Posted September 21, 2012 Whats it like pistonbroken? Are you happy with it? I had the same with my Rev 3 but once all those bits are sorted it feels like new again. Brilliant , I love it . Now everythings sorted , it is pretty much like a new bike !! Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nedrapier Posted September 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2012 (edited) Hmmm. Got it home, starting to spot things I'd not seen at the time Rea wheel off, there's loose play up and down, which looks like linkage bushings? You can see the wobble in the video which translates to a 5-7mm movement at the wheel. Slightly more worrying is the fact that the shock doesn't look straight in the frame. Any ideas? Edited September 23, 2012 by nedrapier Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pindie Posted September 23, 2012 Report Share Posted September 23, 2012 (edited) The top and bottom shock mounts have spherical fish eye bearings which are made to move around so it is normal for it to look off centre at the top. Wear in these bearings is very common as people don't bother to strip, clean and re grease. Your linkage bearings though are dead/dying. Now is the time to strip it all and fit new top and bottom fish eye bearing to shock (possibly worth a re gas and seals) and then replace all bushes, needle roller bearings and seals in the linkages. Search the bearing part numbers on here and get them from a local bearing specialist. OEM ones are very expensive indeed so avoid unless you have deep pockets. I don't have a linkage on my rev 3 but it cost about £150 all in to get my shock overhauled properly by Andy Dawson (search for him on here) and fit all new bushes and bearings in my shock and swingarm. Bike is superb now. It's worth an annual strip, clean and re grease once done so you don't end up back in the same place. Use Silkolene R2 water proof grease as well. Edited September 23, 2012 by pindie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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