strong_lyk_bull Posted October 20, 2012 Report Share Posted October 20, 2012 Hi, i have just bought my first trials bike today and want to get everything right from the start. Is there a place/website that i can put a frame number into to get the model/make/cc of the bike, this is to only double check what i was told the bike was. I was told it was a GAS GAS JTX270 1997, after looking about on the internet i believe this to be true but there are lots of similar things about to start second guessing it, Secondly i like my bikes to look the part so plan on making her good looking for her age so is there any place where i may get a workshop manual? I am handy enough to figure things out but would like one all the same. And last and final thing. (for now ) The bike kicks over first time every time but seems to not want to tick over all the times is this a quick fix? and where do i start? Tomorrow she gets cleaned down to her bones! she will be shiny!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gasthatchgas Posted October 21, 2012 Report Share Posted October 21, 2012 Hi try the Gas Gas USA website that's packed full of info...there spanner man jim also has videos on YouTube. If its not ticking over try adjusting the air mixture screw on the carb. If that don't get it, strip clean and setup again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t-shock 250 Posted October 21, 2012 Report Share Posted October 21, 2012 Google search "gas gas museum" All the model years are pictured on there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
strong_lyk_bull Posted October 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2012 Thats great thanks, just looked and the pictures confirm mine is the JTX 1997, and thanks for the museum tip they have a download for the parts manual, shows a complete breakdown of the whole bike. Hoping to start and get my hands dirty tomorrow going to put new oil in it checked the window today and cant see any so guessing its really low, good thing i resisted going straight out on it, which is the best oil to have in my bike? Is it worth getting a cheap oil to run in the engine to flush it out then put the better oil in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shercoben12 Posted October 21, 2012 Report Share Posted October 21, 2012 Yes that sounds like a good idea:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thats_a_five Posted October 21, 2012 Report Share Posted October 21, 2012 A few tips: 1) Drain the oil and see if it is milky. If so, replace the water pump seal. Water or coolant in the oil will cause lots of clutch drag and cause the friction material to come unstuck from the clutch plates. Also if the water is in the oil, it is not in the radiator so the bike can overheat. Water is not a very good lubricant of thr bearings or gears. 2) If your oil drain plug is not magnetic, change it to a magnetic one. It is amazing how much stuff collects opn that little magnet. None of that stuff is good for the bearings. 3) Change your fork fluid. Easy to do and often overlooked. 4) Keep the feet up and the rubber side down and most importantly, have fun! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
strong_lyk_bull Posted October 31, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2012 MY OIL IS MILKY I have finally got round to work on my bike and have dropped the trans oil out, to find its like milk, i am going to tackle the water pump seal but was wondering, If anyone has experience in change a water pump seal on a 1997 gas gas or if someone could point me in the direction of some footage of this been done. Is there anywhere i can get the seal to match the bike as ebay drew a blank when looked earlier? Thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sting32 Posted October 31, 2012 Report Share Posted October 31, 2012 The usual problem, and please bear with me, because I don't have that old of bike or a lot of time working on oldies... but on the newer "pro" models until recently at least, the impeller is on a little drive shaft, that goes through that seal, and is driven off the crank. That shaft wears out (the shaft should be perfectly smooth) and then gets grooves, which makes the seal worthless. I guess they finally got the heat treating fixed for the shafts that they ship now with repair/seal kits for our Pro models. My telling you about this is JUST IN CASE it Could be same thing on that older bike, pumps were same design kinda, just made smaller for the pro, I believe. There is a "right way" and a wrong way for the seal to go into the pump housing, Im sure that is still true. You best bet might be to just find a parts breakdown from Gas Gas (usa or uk, or spain) for your model, or anything except "PRO MODEL-Trials" engines, use basically the same engines, up until 2003 or 4? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60north Posted October 31, 2012 Report Share Posted October 31, 2012 hi strong_lyk_bull, this topic should help you. http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/41818-trials-newbie-advice-appreciated/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thats_a_five Posted October 31, 2012 Report Share Posted October 31, 2012 I have a '94 JT25 and i think uses the same seal as yours. Changing the seal is not a hard job if have some mechanical skills. You have 2 primary choices: replace just the seal or replace the seal and bearing. I took mine apart and went to a local bearing and seal shop. The seal was a 15 x 26 x 7 and the bearing was a #6000 sealed. I think yours should be the same but I would take the old ones with you to compare. These parts only cost me US$5.60. I cut a new side gasket from sheet gasket paper. I think Gas Gas sells a kit that includes the seal. bearing and shaft. I do not know what they charge. 1) Replace just the seal. This can be done with only removing the water pump cover, pry out the old one, press in the new one and reassemble. 2) Replace the bearing and seal. To do this you have to remove the side case, after removing the kick starter and water pump cover. Remove the seal and bearing (don't lose the little C-clip). Check the pump shaft for wear and replace if needed. Reassemble everything with new side cover gasket, being careful to engage the gear of the water pump with the one in the engine. It will take a couple oil changes to get all the old milky oil out because it does not drain fully each time. Use ATF, it is cheap and works fine. Note: It is most likely that your milky oil is from a bad water pump seal but it is also possible to get milky oil if you ride a hot bike through a deep water crossing. It can draw water in through the vent into the box. Check your oil from time to time - clean oil makes a big difference in clutch performance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
strong_lyk_bull Posted November 8, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2012 well i have checked over my bike with a fine tooth come and all i find is evidence of somebody thinking they know what they are doing but they don't, everything is tight and dirty, unloved and mistreat is the scope of it all, THIS WILL NOT DO!!!!!! So over the winter i am going to completely strip down, clean, grease and replace :-). I know this will end up costing me a little bit more than a younger bike but i figure if i put a bit of money in it and do it all right i can have a reliable bike, going to do all the work myself but may get a specialist to do the engine. So i may ask a few questions i can't find on the forums Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.