bikerpet Posted June 10, 2018 Report Share Posted June 10, 2018 So I got a new spring and fitted it. 15 shifts later it was the same as before Assuming it was the terrible manufacture of the spring at fault (there is a significant crimp at the inside of the bends, one leg consistently worse than the other) and the new spring was busted, I ordered another. Meanwhile I jury rigged a bungy from the bash guard slots to the lever as a temp. return spring - worked pretty well really. New spring arrived and yesterday I tore down again only to find the spring intact. Hmmm. It seems it had just jumped off the boss in the case. The boss is in good condition, I can see a slight groove toward the back corner from where I assume the spring has been the past years. Double checking the Splatshop and Tear Down PDF pictures I decided I had the bushing on the shaft the wrong way around, there is a very slightly thicker flange one side that appears to go toward the shift arm. Swapped that around, held it up in front of the splatshop pic to check it looked the same, reinstalled everything, new fluids again, checked it was all working nicely in the shed and away we go. Got at least 8 shifts out of it this time The boss looks nice and absolutely undamaged except perhaps for these slight grooves down near the back of it - they look as if they would be an advantage if anything. There is no end play to mention in the shift shaft, so I don't think there's any problem there - the stop on the clutch housing that prevents the shaft moving right is in good condition, barely a mark where the shift shaft touches. I read in another thread that someone had trouble when they used a thinner clutch housing gasket and it caused the shaft to bind, I'm using the original still and the lever feels free moving, so I don't think this is the case here. Can't really think of anything else to look for. So before I get into it for the third time has anyone got any particular experience they might share to enlighten me how to make the b-----y thing stay where it's supposed to be? All I can think is that I need to somehow push the spring to the back of the boss in the hope that the slight grooves there hold it in place. TIA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lineaway Posted June 10, 2018 Report Share Posted June 10, 2018 https://www.splatshop.co.uk/spring-for-gear-shift-lever.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bikerpet Posted September 3, 2018 Report Share Posted September 3, 2018 On 10/06/2018 at 11:02 PM, lineaway said: https://www.splatshop.co.uk/spring-for-gear-shift-lever.html I was absolutely fastidious following the Splatshop pictures - measured both flanges of the bush it rides in, held the assembled spring and shaft in front of the photos. It just didn't work. Today I finally pulled the clutch out yet again and studied everything carefully. The original wear marks on the cast boss look like the spring was assembled the other way around, with the ends of the legs kicking out from the shifter. So I've now flipped the spring over and also ground a very slight groove into the boss for the spring to ride in. We'll see what happens this time. I'm not removing the "external return spring" I fitted yet though (a length of bungy through the bash guard that loops over the shift lever - doesn't work perfectly, but certainly helps), just hooking it out of the way until I see if this time it stays fixed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bikerpet Posted September 5, 2018 Report Share Posted September 5, 2018 (edited) Well, another failure. About 3 shifts before the lever went floppy again. I'm at a loss how to fix this without resorting to somewhat desperate measures. My current plan failing any other good suggestions is to re-bend the spring so it sits further back on the boss. The only other thing I can think off is to screw a thin flange onto the end of the boss to retain the spring - not sure if there's room to do that. Or build up some weld to form a flange, but that becomes a big job for a stupid little spring. Getting really good but sick of the process of removing the clutch and shift shaft! EDIT: I hunted out the remnant of the original broken spring to compare the shape and voila - the new spring has legs almost straight inline with the coils, the original has a significant kick out to the side. This fits perfectly with what's happening. I've now reshaped my second spare spring to match and am looking forward to installing it later in the week perhaps. Sherco really needs a new spring manufacturer - poorly made with obvious stress raisers and not even able to match a consistent form apparently. So beware - if you get a replacement shift spring, compare it carefully with an known-good one! Edited September 5, 2018 by bikerpet Possible solution found Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bikerpet Posted September 18, 2018 Report Share Posted September 18, 2018 Today I finally replaced the spring with one I modified to match the broken original (minus the break). Eureka - it is still working after an hour riding so I'm going to say it's fixed. So if you buy a replacement spring for your Sherco carefully compare it to the original working one and modify it to match if it isn't the same. In the photo I've attached here the original is in the centre, the new incorrect one is on the left and a new one modified to match the original is on the right. Now to fix the stripped clutch housing bolt from all this on-again off-again - it didn't get close to torque before it stripped, strange as it spun in easily. Am I impressed with Sherco quality do you think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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