mr neutron Posted December 21, 2012 Report Share Posted December 21, 2012 (edited) I've found a deal on what seems to be a still new Hebo flywheel weight.The model number on the box says the flywheel weight is HI4080, and that it fits the 2002-2005 250/280/300 Pro models. Does anyone know for certain if this flywheel weight will (or will not) fit my 2010 model? I've looked at the part numbers of Gas Gas flywheels for the 2005 models, and then my 2010 model, and they are indeed different part numbers. But that isn't always a sure indicator a part won't fit...... Also, if anyone has used one of these, or is using one, what are the opinions? Thanks! Jimmie Edited December 21, 2012 by mr neutron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dombush Posted December 21, 2012 Report Share Posted December 21, 2012 Jimmie i used one on my 2006 250. It had 2 good effects and 2 small side effects:- Good The flywheel significantly reduced the tendency of the bike to stall when travelling slowly down hill or negotiating tight turns on tickover "in section". This in turn allowed me to utilise this to trust the bike and keep the overall speed down. I'm quite small & light and i found the flywheel smoothed out my poor throttle control. Bad If "firing" the bike up a big hill in 2nd / 3rd the flywheel can affect the bikes ability to slow down at the top. This is just a get used to it thing. The steering can "push" a bit in mud or poor grip when rolling the throttle off. Overall it works for me, mostly because it helps with my hamfisted throttle control. Dom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr neutron Posted December 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2012 Hi, Dom!! Dom, I have to wonder if we may not somehow be related...... I too suffer from "ham fisted throttle control"..... You had me laughin' there, my friend! Thanks for the "Pros & Cons"! That gives me something to think on. I would like to slow my bike down just a little bit, to match my "Sea Cow-like Reflexes"..... But mostly, what I'm after is to make starting slightly easier for myself in the future. I'm getting a knee replacement a few weeks after Christmas, and I've been worried about how hard starting the bike will be with the new hardware in my knee. I also plan on getting a head spacers/compression reducer kit to help in the starting dept.. My doctor says It'll be okay to ride still, as long as I don't take any "big hits" from long drop offs & such. At the Novice level here where I ride, they mostly torture you with tight turns near smaller obstacles. So if I'm careful, I'll be okay. I can't help but think some of the help with smoothing out low end grunt, or "chugability" will certainly be welcome. Would you happen to know if the flywheels for 2002-2005 & 2010 models are similar? Thanks again! Jimmie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tjp Posted December 21, 2012 Report Share Posted December 21, 2012 Hi Jimmie it looks like most sites selling the Hebo flywheel weight say it fits 02-09, however the S3 flywheel weight fits 02-12, so applying logic you'd assume the Hebo one would fit too............. but logic does not always apply. If the price was good I'd risk it but it's your money. Good luck, they do make a nice difference to the way the bike runs Regards T http://www.trialendurodirect.com/products.php?S3_Flywheel_weight_kit_for_GG_Pro_250_280_300_models_286&manufacturers=15 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samblade Posted December 21, 2012 Report Share Posted December 21, 2012 I bought the Hebo for a 20005, then used it on an 2011. It comes with different bolts, spacers etc. So I think you'll be ok, as long as everything is with it. Definitely worth having as well. Sam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dombush Posted December 21, 2012 Report Share Posted December 21, 2012 Jimmie I'm afraid i dont know which years flywheels it fits. What i do know is the features that affect whether it will fit or not are:- The position of the two holes in the std flywheel. You press the supplied threaded inserts into these holes from the inside of the flywheel. The flywheel weight then bolts to the std flywheel using these fastening points. The outside diameter of the flywheel as the weight very slightly wraps around the chamfered edge. Another point of note was that i slightly modified (shaved) the gear lever to stop it fouling on the engine cover with the spacer fitted. This ensured that the gear lever remained fully on the splined gear change shaft. Dom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr neutron Posted December 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 22, 2012 (edited) Dom, TJP, & Sam, Thanks you guys so very much for your help!!! You've no idea how much you're appreciated! I got hom from work this afternoon, and used my home computer to go to some websites where Hebo stuff is sold, and was able to glean just about what you stated, TJP. I also called a great guy that owns a dealership in Maine (eastern US) who confirmed that the Hebo flywheel weight I have will also fit my 2010 model. He also told me that my 2010 model has the S3 head with the replaceable combustion chamber. While most folks want a head with more compression, he said S3 makes one with less compression, which will meet my needs. He felt the spacer plates aren't nearly as problem free as the head "insert" is. So, I've also ordered one of those, along with some O-rings, as well. The Hebo flywheel weight was bought by a friend, but never used. So it appears all the hardware & required stuff is in the box.The install of the Hebo weight is slightly different from how the S3 weight installs, I think, Dom. But it still looks like it is fairly straightforward. I will need to remove the stock Gas Gas flywheel, position the Hebo weight in place, and then drill & tap two 8mm holes in the flywheel. It looks like two countersink head bolts help hold the weight in place, as well as the bolt in the center?? So I guess I need to find a flywheel puller, now..... Unless someone knows if the stock flywheel comes off w/o a puller? Doesn't look like it to me...... Again, I'm really grateful for your help here, fellas. Thank you very much! Jimmie Edited December 22, 2012 by mr neutron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zippy Posted December 22, 2012 Report Share Posted December 22, 2012 Unless someone knows if the stock flywheel comes off w/o a puller? Doesn't look like it to me...... Beat it with a very LARGE hammer..........................won't come off but you will get your aggressions out. Actually though it sounds like you are on your way to having your bike sorted out to how you want it. Good luck, hope it works easily and enjoy the new characteristics of the bike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laser1 Posted December 22, 2012 Report Share Posted December 22, 2012 You will need a puller to remove the flywheel. I found a thread from RichT that mentioned the size is: M27 Dia x 1mm Pitch, right hand male thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr neutron Posted December 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 22, 2012 Thanks, Laser!!! That info really helps. i wish I'd been thinking ahead enough to add one to the order I made with Stu @ Jack's Cycles...... Maybe one of the sorta-local bike shops in Portland might have one.... Zippy, I love your posts & website/videos. But I think I'm maybe gonna respectfully pass on the BFH flywheel removal method, hee hee..... But don't think that hasn't happened in my younger days. There's many a lawn mower I've worked on out there that fears me...... Actually, I'm pretty much happy with the bike stock. I do feel at my level of riding (if I've achieved one, hee hee), a slightly slower behaving bike might be a plus, except in the situations Dom mentioned. I'm just kinda faced with deal where my in order to keep riding my Gas Gas, I need to make it easier to start. That's why I was wanting the flywheel weight and ordered the head "insert" deal. Again, I really appreciate everybody's help, y'all!!! Thank You!! Jimmie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
huski Posted December 29, 2012 Report Share Posted December 29, 2012 Flywheel weight is defo a good mod,calms the power down and makes it easier to ride,but won't make it easier to kick overLowering the compression will make it easier to start ,but with the weight as well might make it too lazy.I'd lower the comp first,and see if its how you want it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr neutron Posted December 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 29, 2012 (edited) Hey, Huski!! Yes, it certainly does seem to slow down the power a bit. It may take me a short time to get used to it, but I believe I'm gonna like it. My little short rides on my property have seemed to make things like slow corners a little easier, as well as my feeble attempts at Floater turns. My timing for log hopping & stump jumping is a little off, though; I bumped the skid plate a few times yesterday (this was probably due to my own bad technique, instead of the bike's fault though.....). And I inadvertently did a wheelie/"holding pressure" move while riding off a stump that wasn't really planned on that obstacle. The mass of the flywheel now takes a little longer to slow down, like Dom mentioned..... And for me, in past experiences, that extra flywheel mass has been what has helped out starting in a small way. I've put flywheel weights, or a complete replacement heavier "Off-Road" flywheel, on other bikes that were made for mx. I wanted to trail ride/race off road/scrambles/enduros on a KTM 300 MXC & later, a Yamaha YZ450F. A side benefit of taming the hit on these bikes was that the extra mass, once put in motion, would stay in motion longer than the lighter flywheel, and this was what helped starting slightly. It seemed the most helpful when I was tired. A half-hearted prod at the kick lever got enough mass spinning long enough to get the thing lit off..... Anyway, this has been my experience with these types of deals. But you are definitely spot on; it does nothing to mechanically make the bike easier to kick over. Once it does get spinning, it tends to stay spinning longer..... I totally agree with you that lowering the compression ratio is more effective at making a bike engine spin over easier for starting. Last week, I ordered a low compression insert for the S3 head on my bike, to address that aspect of starting. It hasn't made it here yet, but I will likely put a sort-of non-expert opinion on this forum about that.... Jimmie Edited December 29, 2012 by mr neutron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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