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315R Clutch Change Advice


plugman
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Hey Guys,

Got myself a 315R last weekend & am now looking at servicing the bike as it hasn't been touched since new (No mods) & has been sat for 2 years also.

First up, I have already seen the clutch drag issues & struggle to get it into neutral with the engine running / hot so I was looking at the heavy duty clutch plates (Link). These plates are friction plates only, should I be replacing the steel plates at the same time also (Even if showing no signs of wear) due to the size of the new plates?

Also, the oil that I have seen recommended (HTX740) is hard to come by in the UK, does anyone have an alternative to suggest?

One last thing! Any other highly recommended mods / upgrades to improve performance / life of bike?

Thanks a lot!

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Do not replace the friction plates unless worn out. The clutch fix for the 315 is replacement of the stock steel plates with aftermarket dimpled plates. All the 315's suffered from clutch drag from new. With the right metal dimpled plates, oil has a chance between the plates to prevent the drag. Do a search on here for different makes of plates it has been covered extensively over the years. Great bikes.

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Try ATF oil change first before spending to much money, Had several 315s and never changed clutch plates so unless bike has been very well used an oil change may do the trick. ATF oil is as close to the elf as you can get without spending a fortune.

As for rest of bike just look after it well - good ATF changed every 8 to 10 trials. Clean air filter every ride and clean carb every 6 trials should see things go well. Linkage greased every 6 months. Brakes stripped and cleaned every outing.

One of the best quality bikes ever made

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I had the same problems when I got mine last year...

I bought the Apico steel plates (about 20 quid) and PJ1 Ultra Light 75W, from BVM and it sorted it right out.

...not sure which did the trick though, as I did both at the same time.

Another mod that I'd recommend are the footpegs - I put S3 Hardrock's on mine and they're much better than stock.

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I had the same problems when I got mine last year...

I bought the Apico steel plates (about 20 quid) and PJ1 Ultra Light 75W, from BVM and it sorted it right out.

...not sure which did the trick though, as I did both at the same time.

Another mod that I'd recommend are the footpegs - I put S3 Hardrock's on mine and they're much better than stock.

totally agree about the pegs

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Footrests are a bit of a week spot. Genuine hangers are cheap and a bit of extra bracing when new helps. Check genuine Montesa/Honda bits first as you may be suprised at prices. Honda packaged brake pads are as cheap as Galfers and the "Honda light weight trials chain" is one of the best value products about.

Best of luck

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Hi Plugman.I had the same problem with my 315 ,i did change the clutch friction plates i got them of ebay .Theres a shop that sells after market ones at about £30 +p&p .There up in the north east i forget there name,the guy said they work well and they do .I use the ELF oil i get mine from BVM.I did this change in May of last year,i rode one trial and it was perfect ,the bike was the parked up for six months and i rode it at my local boxing day trial.It started second kick i let it warm up for about one minute pulled the clutch in put in gear and it didnt jump forward ! also i won the trial !! I also think that it is the best trials bike ever made,if montesa remade them again i`d be one of the first in yhe que.Ps ill try some new pegs aswell

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Ive always found changing the clutch for a CR 250 think 1989 works wonders for clutch drag and putoline light gear or ATF, Changing oil wont get the old oil off the friction plates, that will be soacked in by now.

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Mine was exactly the same. New friction plates made the clutch 100% better. I used to use ATF in mine. As the oil filler is so small and in such an awkward place I used to lie the bike on it's side, remove the clutch cover and pour the oil in there. Great bikes, wish I still had my old one.

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Mine was exactly the same. New friction plates made the clutch 100% better. I used to use ATF in mine. As the oil filler is so small and in such an awkward place I used to lie the bike on it's side, remove the clutch cover and pour the oil in there. Great bikes, wish I still had my old one.

Thanks a lot for all of the replies, been a great help. Also forgot to mention that this is my first trials bike, came from sports / cruiser / trail bikes & fancied a change!

RE: ATF Oil, do ATF sell different models of their oil or would their standard transmission oil (here) do the trick?

I'll be giving the bike an oil change as soon as I have bought some & also cleaning the air filter & carb. I will also be switching from 50:1 to 80:1 to check for any differences in performance :)

Thanks Again!

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Honda #22201-KZ3-730 frictions used on 84-07 CR250Rs, plus some others.

Honda # 22321-KA4-741 discs used on 84-07 CR250R, plus some others.

The clutch in my 315 is the best clutch of any bike I've owned.. I use to run the Elf oil but it is expensive and hard to find so I searched for substitutes.

my research:

  1. Crankcase lube oils are risky to use in a wet clutch because anti friction additives can cause clutch slippage.
  2. Montesa recommends Elf HTX740, which is a very thin synthetic gear oil. Elf cautions not using this oil in wet clutches. EBC and others recommend not using synthetic oils in wet clutches. Go figure!!
  3. Dextron ATF provides much smoother clutch engagement than "F" ATF.
  4. Synthetic ATFs are much thinner at typical ambient temps than Dyno based ATFs (see chart below). Thicker oils cause more drag.
  5. Cork friction discs provide the smoothest engagement, paper the grabbiest. EBC claims smooth engagement with their sintered cork and Carbon Fiber frictions.

I tried a Valvoline synthetic Dextron VI ATF in my 315R with good results. A little more drag when cold, slightly longer range of engagement, and smoother lockup. But how much was new oil versus old oil, or different brand? The increase in drag was fixed with a bit of adjustment at the lever.

Gear Oils................................ @40oC........... @100oC

Elf HTX740............................. 21.4............. 7

Valvoline Dextron VI ATF syn.. 29.5........... 6.0

Mobile 1 Syn ATF.................. 36.3............. 7.4

Royal Purple Max ATF........... 35.0............. 7.5

Mobile Dextron VI ATF......... 38.8

Valvoline +4......................... 34.13.......... 7.55

Allison Transynd ATF ........... 53.9............ 9.75

Elf HTX735.............................114............17.8

Silkolene Medium 85W-90... 150-340..... 15

Silkolene Light 75W-80......... 100-180..... 15

Silkolene Comp 80W-90........ 100-145.... 15

Silkolene Pro SRG 75............ 100-180..... 11

Elf HTX755........................... 197.24......... 2

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I agree with everything that's been said so far. I would add two things as you come from a road background;

1. Be sure you don't overfill your gearbox when you do the oil change. If in doubt, you can reduce the quantity by 25ml without harm. Too much oil will create drag. I use Dextron III bought by the gallon from my local motor factor and I change it very frequently (every couple of rides).

2. In addition to the other maintenance tips mentioned, keep an eye on your cooling system - it's tiny. The fan should cut in and out on a fairly regular basis, this is completely normal. 50/50 mix of antifreeze and distilled water to keep everything in order.

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  • 11 years later...
On 1/22/2013 at 10:41 PM, chuck4788 said:

Honda # 22321-KA4-741 discs

Digging this up from the archives… Can anyone actually confirm that the Honda # 22321-KA4-741 metal plates are dimpled?  I’d like to avoid aftermarket if at all possible but every single photo (including on eBay) I’ve found of the 22321-KA4-740 or 741 is a perfectly smooth metal plate.  I’m sure the dimpled plates are interchangeable but I’d really like Honda OEM quality if at all available.   I’m just not seeing it.  

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