nigav Posted January 24, 2013 Report Share Posted January 24, 2013 Hi Bought the missus a 2002 125 txt pro last weekend. I want to bleed the clutch to try and improve a clutch drag niggle. The cap on the clutch master cyl is green and says mineral oil on it. But being an 02 std would have been brake fluid. What fluid should I go with? Or what's the worst can happen if I use 'wrong' fluid? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sting32 Posted January 24, 2013 Report Share Posted January 24, 2013 I removed mineral, put in dot5 in most all of mine. I am betting the last or someone in it's history, had fancy (anodized alum) caps on that bike, then got a newer bike, took stock caps off new bike placed on this older bike while they took the bling to new bike. Still, dot 4 or 5 brake fluid should be fine in an 02. There was a time I thought, that you couldn't use mineral in an older than 04 pro, without changing the orings. So dont go by the caps though. I like 5 it is silicone based, might give a tiny less friction when pulling levers? This fluid wont affect how the clutch works (dragging) really, as long as you have EVERYTHING adjusted. Slipping that has to do with finger (release fingers on the pro clutch) there are tight specs for this, then it can be (relatively little bit) changed with viscosity and friction of tranny oil used. If it hasnt been done (not positive about 125's though) in 2006 they redesigned the big spring on the clutch, it was easier to pull with your finger/lever. but 125 might not been, but I would bet it has, might be a good $10 mod. Search Youtube for Gas Gas Pro Clutch, or this site, for adjusting clutch "thikness" or finger height... There's more but others probably make more sense than my typing will. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laser1 Posted January 24, 2013 Report Share Posted January 24, 2013 The 125's use the same spring as the big bikes - so +1 on the 06 spring replacement. Drag is usually a plate flatness & possible swelling issue. Like sting said - check the finger height and stack height specs as well as flatness. Last but not least - use 350 to 375cc of ATF-DexIII. Less fluid = less drag - especially in cold weather. Change it often. FWIW: you can look at the seals in the clutch slave to determine what fluid to run. That info is on the GGUSA site as well. Its in a word file, under Pro engine info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lineaway Posted January 25, 2013 Report Share Posted January 25, 2013 (edited) The early 125`s and 200`s had a lot of txt parts still installed. I would call the person you bought it from to get some history. Chances are they upgraded parts to the mineral oil. Bleeding it probably is not the answer. The finger clutch height needs to be around 17mm. Chances are you are >15. Usually you can replace one steel plate with an .03 plate and be spot on. If the plates were upgraded then a .04 plate would do the job. As previosly noted try to find the you tube vids. Good luck. Edited January 25, 2013 by lineaway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sting32 Posted January 26, 2013 Report Share Posted January 26, 2013 (edited) Start here when searching for the videos... http://www.youtube.com/user/GASGASinfo this is the "owner" and parts importer & distributor for the USA's Gas Gas trails line. Jim Snell, he and the bike importer made "maintenance" AKA "owners manuals" that are actually "movies" the put on VHS, then DVD, for the bikes they sold in the USA, I think they still do. Anywho, that is Place to start. he's uploaded all the chapters I have on the DVD for mine, I think. PS, I used to have the clutch bookmarked, lost it... but you can find it, I am sure... Edited January 26, 2013 by sting32 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nigav Posted January 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2013 (edited) Thanks for the replies fellas. Wonder what Gas Gas's idea was when going away from the traditional design of clutch assembly? Anyway I'll have to pull the cover off and measure the specs and adjust accordingly. She was out yesterday on the bike and as it got up to temp the issue wasn't as bad, but it still makes finding neutral whilst standing still a hassle. I want it to be as easy as possible as it would be one thing less to worry about for a beginner. I'll report back my findings. One other thing what's your thoughts on DP and sureflex clutch kits? If there's doubt over the plates I might change them and start from fresh then I know where I an at with that part of the system. I believe the DP kits don't like ATF . I can't be sure what type of clutch plates or oil the previous owners might have had in there. The sureflex seems to come with extra steels to allow for adjustment which can only be a good thing and aren't fussy on oil type Edited January 27, 2013 by nigav Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sting32 Posted January 28, 2013 Report Share Posted January 28, 2013 The "idea" was weight savings, and adjustability. Raga used to take his 2002 Pro clutch cover with him to all the bikes (probably new ones, just in my mind I think of it as my numberplate, I take to each new bike. Pro riders that constantly hop, SEEM to like a clutch that enguages and disenguages quickly, I describe it as a standard on off switch. Me, an old fart, likes the newest style with my favorite oil, that makes the clutch have several "degrees" in a sense at least, of progressive engagement. to me this is more like a little bit of a dimmer switch between off and FULL on. I have a normal looking light switch in the basement that works just like that. if I flip it up all the way lights are on bright as usual, if I slide it up from off, or from full on to off, I can vary the brightness. One thing has been beaten to death on the forums, you might want to read around, that the Gas Gas "Pro" engine's clutch will NOT ever freewheel when clutch is pulled (disengaged), fully. At least not quite like some think they should. I mean like my Honda Street bikes, well any Jap bike and even Harleys... If you pull the clutch on those, it is as if the bike is in neutral, for all intents and purposes. Seems to me Ossa felt this way on the one I test rode, and not sure about sherco. Honda/Montesa has a clutch that completely freewheels, on the 2 I rode... Anyway, The Gas Gas will drag very slightly, and you either like it or you get used to it then like it, or you wont like it let alone get used to it. I like it, but I am definitely used to it. I'm talking slight drag, nothing that will pull out of my hands, but I know it drags because it is hard to find neutral because of the drag, and almost impossible with an "untrained" toe of your boot, not that bad using your hand. I "ride" the rear brake all the time too, when riding, because I almost never actually let the clutch out of my finger, nor fully engaged, My dad and I refer to it as my finger being a manually operated torq converter as in a car without a clutch... you can stop at an intersection, and the engine doesn't die, but you can't (in most cars) easily push the car backwards if you let off the brake, and if idle is too high, you let off the brake it will run over anyone trying to push it backwards, lol.. Ask me how I know that one. yep, I got run over working on a race car one night, when my buddy started the car in gear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nigav Posted February 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2013 (edited) Well in my attempt to cure the drag issue, (which I now realise is just a gas gas pro quirk) I replaced master cyl piston and seals, slave cyl o-ring and seal, new clutch plates set to spec, minor marks on clutch basket polished and sliding faces on new fiber plates polished too. Atf dex 3 oil used. Slight improvement but far from the point of being able to select neutral whilst sitting still. Just have to make do lol Edited February 10, 2013 by nigav Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lineaway Posted February 11, 2013 Report Share Posted February 11, 2013 To get neutral, go down to first. Then with your heel give a short quick kick up on the shifter. Never will find it with the toe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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