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Kicking The Raga


modifier
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I finally got my 2012 Raga and was able to take it out for 1 day before the rain then winter mix hit. Great bike. Amazing handling. I can't imagine a trials bike being any better, except for the little kid sized kick start.

I know saving weight is key but they could have made the thing a inch longer and the added weight would have been mere grams. It works ok when everything is perfectly dry but get a little mud on your boots (Sidi Trials) and it's almost impossible to stay on it. If they can't make it bigger they could at least add some traction knurling or something.

I hate the thought, but have considered cutting some groves in the back side where your boot hits it when kicking, parallel to the kickstart so it won't create stress risers. Or maybe even drill and tap a few holes and add some allenhead set screws like in footpegs or pedals.

I can deal with it the way it is but have to be really careful and slip off a lot of the time, maybe getting 1 good kick out of 5 tries. And since you get such a short stroke with each kick that can take a lot of attempts. But that was just with a little mud. If it was actually a muddy or rainy day it would be quite a struggle.

Does anyone do anything to improve this situation?

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Modifier, my dad has the 300, he put in the low compression head insert, mellows the bike a bit, if you are new might be worth the expense right off the bat, then if you get too good before you buy a new bike/model, you could try the old insert back.

kick lever is almost as engineered as everything else is weight wise, vs strenght, not sure what happens if you go modifying on it, might break/weaken it quite a bit.

I suggest you develop a kicking method that uses your "leg" not your body to kickstart, I know what your facing, and I have to make myself get my leg to push exactly the direction the kicker is going to move, especially when wet, and it is frustrating sometimes to "miss & slip"... (even after several years with our pro models, I have the 11 raga, dad has the 12 300's)

I think if you try to do what I see lots try, to get your foot UP on the lever, and UP against compression, then jump into the air and "hope" your weight lines up right as it settles back onto that leg, with the forces you want to push with your foot. Every time I do such, I slip off and hurt something, worse when I might just have street shoes on. I have learned to put my crotch right over the fuel cap, and just push back and down with strength of my thigh muscles and calf, to kick, kind of taking my body to be lining back up over the seat as well as I finish the kick.

One other nice trick is to back the engine up onto compression, this allows the engine to free-wheel through the less compression part of the stroke/cycle, as you start your kick. This is so you get passed the akward start of the starting movement with your foot/leg and are able to keep accelerating to the peg. If you do this, it will stop you from trying to jump onto your leg and starter, because there isnt enough resistance to hold your leg like it does when you try to start at approaching compression...

BTW, I do this if it dies, or if I stop and kill it to look at sections or what not, I pull the bike backwards to back the piston as far back as it will let me, I do this before I pull it out of gear before I even dismount my bike... This way when I walk back to the bike, and I am still thinking "how am I going to make that turn" I have it all ready to start and run. It takes just 1/4th of a second to be prepared, when you get off, so when you get back to "start" it it is easy.

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Chris has the 2011 300 and White Sidi's and he does not have a problem. Me being about 5 inches shorter does have a problem.

The 2012 Raga kickstart top (where you foot goes) is 3/4 inch shorter than your 2011. Thats why the poster is saying his foot slips off.

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Thanks for the input. I'll live with it for a while and see if I get used to it. If not 1 to 3 carefully placed pedal/peg threaded studs will probably help immensely.

Yeah but the studs could eat away the soles of your boots.

I would try to (get someone to) weld on some aluminium studs or ridges on the kickstarter

Or try a larger one from an other model...

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They are the same studs that are on S3 pegs that people ride with. And you are only on it for a second rather than all day, so I don't think it would be too hard on the boots. What I'm more worried about would be slipping off while kicking and tearing my pants. But maybe that wouldn't happen either.

In another forum someone said that there have been lots of complaints about the 2012 toddler sized kick.

If I can't learn to live with it or make it work better then last year's kick is an option. Thanks.

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Is it not a heat treated kickstart?

Welding onto it could be an expensive mistake.

Not more than drilling (tiny) holes in it and potentially weaken it that way imo

And what's the value of something you'd rather get rid of? ;)

Edited by guys
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that looks good actually.

Design might not SOLELY been weigh savings, the less the arm sticks out, the less leverage you have on the "shaft" when you kick against compression like some are doing, I don't know just thinking out loud though...

lost track so Ill just ask, what CC is yours?

Edited by sting32
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It's a 280.

If 1 isn't enough I could add 1 more to the next slot. But like I said with wet soles there was no slip. Just have to see with mud.

You could be right about wanting to limit the ability to kick but I think it's more likely done for aesthetics. You can kick it just as hard as long as it's dry.

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