j13me Posted February 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2013 Not sure if its worth trying to clean mine up and re try it. Just worried about stripping the engine side as that's fine at minute. Bloody bikes! Lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shipdamite Posted February 11, 2013 Report Share Posted February 11, 2013 So it only turns quarter of a turn? Yes coop, the video helped massively too. Unfortunately the kick start I got does not fit. Its too small, yet another hold back Choke switch ordered and hopefully exchange the kick start for a bigger one and try that. Really want it running for this weekend. Then just need to bleed the clutch and rear brake as there is nothing there at all. Just soft! Normal dot4 ok? is the clutch dot 4 or is it mineral oil? I used LHM oil (liquid hydraulic mineral [citroen]) in my pro clutch master cylinder.............. very good action with that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j13me Posted February 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2013 I'm not sure on what's in it to be honest. Same with coolant, why I'm a bit wary about doing it yet. Just seen your in Norfolk, where abouts? I'm local and would be good to meet another rider! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j13me Posted February 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2013 Just seen a Gas Gas video on youtube (official) and they say use dot4. Will do this tomorrow. Any tricks on bleeding them? On another video I have seen it says about gearbox oil.. Using 5/30 car engine oil? Anyone heard of this? :s Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60north Posted February 12, 2013 Report Share Posted February 12, 2013 hi j13me, this is a link for the info on the 95/96 GG250. http://mypage.direct.ca/b/billyd/ggman.pdf i found the best way to bleed brakes/clutch is to reverse bleed from the bleed nipple back to the resevoir using a large syringe full of dot 4 fluid. you may have to do the rear brake several times as their a pain to get right Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thats_a_five Posted February 12, 2013 Report Share Posted February 12, 2013 Brake bleeding Since your bike has been sitting a while I strongly suggest you dissaemnble and clean the clutch and brake master cylinders before trying to bleed them. My '94 JT25 was giving me fits to bleed the clutch. then i removed the lever and small bellows on the plunger. The snapring was all rusted and there was a lot of crud that was preventing the piston from coming all the way back to the snapring when the lever was released. This prevented the fluid from returning to the reservoir. Once I cleaned the crud, sanded off the rust, and applied some oil to it, they bled perfectly. Gearbox When you drain the box, see if the oil is milky. The water pump seals go bad and let coolant leak into the box. Not a good lubricant. I use ATF in the gearbox. Works great, and is cheap so i can change it fairly frequently. It is amazing how much difference in clutch drag there is with dirty versus clean oil. Ride on! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shipdamite Posted February 12, 2013 Report Share Posted February 12, 2013 Just seen a Gas Gas video on youtube (official) and they say use dot4. Will do this tomorrow. Any tricks on bleeding them? On another video I have seen it says about gearbox oil.. Using 5/30 car engine oil? Anyone heard of this? :s use a syringe body and back bleed up to the master cylinder; make sure the play is right at the m/c or you won't get fluid through........ you can get the syringe body from a vets or a dentist if you ask nicely and explain what it is for. don't use car oil as this will mess the clutch plates up. I have had good results using putoline light gear oil, although understand that the castrol 10w 30 power 1 for 4t's would be good in the gearbox (this was from thier tech people, but i havent tried it yet) I am near to dereham! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j13me Posted February 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2013 Right guys, few updates. This is going from bad to worse. I have alot of patients but this is getting me close to giving up! Went to bleed brakes.. Rear nipple was seized solid.. After 10 minutes of carefully removing (loosing, tightening up with lots of WD) it come out. The brake fluid looked like mud, thick and brown (this was changed when I last used it!) shows what time can do to the fluid! Bleed nipple was blocked so spent ages unblocking this, thread was damaged at the end but was hoping it would go back in.. Well, it didn't! The thread on the caliper (which I think is made of some kind of cheese?) is dead totally, I tried cleaning it up but its way beyond repair! So now I need a caliper.. This isn't going to be cheap.. If I can find one at all! Which at the moment I can't! Next problem, kick start still.. Went back to the shop today to try exchange the lever for a bigger one to fit. Surprise surprise they had nothing and can't source anything either. I tried fixing mine the best I could.. I have cleaned spliness and put liquid metal in the splines. I know this isn't ideal but if it gets it started I don't mind and will fork out the £90+ for a new lever. Problem I have is I just don't want to be throwing money at it getting it running for me to take it out and keep finding problems. I'm already thinking of buying a newer bike! Anyway.. Back to the kick start.. Doing the pinch Bolt up.. Snap.. Great! So drilling that out and will use nut and bolt for that tommorow.. On the bright side.. The choke switch should be here tommorow so as long as I can sort/bodge the kick start I should be able to get her running tommorow. Any ideas on the caliper or kick start lever though guys? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j13me Posted February 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2013 This is the caliper type needed also.. AJP is the make.. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gas-Gas-Contact-Rear-Brake-Caliper-AJP-/181036143464?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item2a26985368&nma=true&si=0wnMGvHzYIzptsXiHAO4GUS%252BpW8%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shipdamite Posted February 12, 2013 Report Share Posted February 12, 2013 so the kick start clamps onto the spline rather than fitting onto it and being bolted into the spline like the txt pro? I remember way back in the day, that a spline went a bit tits up on a mates fizzy, so we cut the kickstart on the inner face of the clamp area so more leverage could be achieved when doing up the nut and bolt............. a toughened 'black' nut and bolt that wouldn't bend.......... seem to remember that we also packed it out a bit on the splines with panel pins as well.......... sounds a top bodge, but that repair hung on longer than the piston did that summer ;-] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j13me Posted February 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2013 Haha I'm a bit happier now. £7.50 helicoil kit for caliper, and I'm going to hope the liquid metal holds it! Just hope I can drill through the snapped bolt easily enough! Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coop650 Posted February 13, 2013 Report Share Posted February 13, 2013 Look on the bright side, you are learning a lot of things not to do in the future when working on old motorcycles . Just kidding, seriously I'm sorry you are having so many issues. If for some reason your kicker repair doesn't hold and you really want to her it run before you put any money in new parts, try to catch it in gear/bump start it. Find a big hill, put it in 3rd or 4th, push and jump on and pop the clutch. The downfall is if it doesn't start you have to push it back up haha. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j13me Posted February 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2013 Hahani was thinking that coop, problem is as its not starting at the minute even with a kick start I can see it being ALOT of hard work and potentially jot starting haha Hopi the repair will work at least enough kicks to get it started and have a quick ride to check for anything else Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.