drifter_uk Posted February 16, 2013 Report Share Posted February 16, 2013 Hi guys been looking on this forum for a while now and just registered up tonight dont know why i didnt do it sooner its a great site,people and plenty of useful information and very welcoming I Just want to ask what the difference is between these bearings as I'm wanting to replace the dogbone bearings and found some on eBay for a couple quid each Hk16162rs and Hk14162rs are the ones fitted and the ones on eBay are Hk1616 and Hk1416 but haven't got the 2rs Does the 2rs matter? Thanks in advance Les Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stillers1965 Posted February 16, 2013 Report Share Posted February 16, 2013 The RS means rubber sealed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drifter_uk Posted February 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2013 The RS means rubber sealed. Ahhh right so really there no good as they need to be sealed for use on a trials bike due to the conditions there ridden in Thanks for the answer stiller Les Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_earle Posted February 21, 2013 Report Share Posted February 21, 2013 The bearings are cheap, It's the bushings that are expensive and normally wear with the bearings so just replacing the bearings will only take up some of the play. There is no cheap way around this, I need to do mine but have to convince myself that I have to spend money on something you can't see and isn't shiny!!!. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted February 22, 2013 Report Share Posted February 22, 2013 (edited) The bearings are cheap, It's the bushings that are expensive and normally wear with the bearings so just replacing the bearings will only take up some of the play. There is no cheap way around this, I need to do mine but have to convince myself that I have to spend money on something you can't see and isn't shiny!!!. Makes your rear end feel good! Edited February 22, 2013 by copemech Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tony27 Posted February 22, 2013 Report Share Posted February 22, 2013 Personally I'd buy a all balls/moose racing kit for the linkages/swingarm mount, bearings are the same but their sleeves are much better quality & I wouldn't be sure the complete kit is not cheaper than the genuine parts. Kit number is 27-1165 & is easily found on ebay especially from the states, I lent my kit to a clubmate for his new bike that was nowhere near what it was advertised as & he was able to replace it in about a week from the states for a lot less than he expected Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_earle Posted February 22, 2013 Report Share Posted February 22, 2013 Makes your rear end feel good! My rear end is tight as a ducks, The poor Sherco's like a worn out rent boy!!! It's got bad very quickly, 3 Trials ago it had a little play now it's hanging, Will be changing in the next week or so. I can't believe the price of these things, I will be cleaning and lubing my rear end after every trial from now on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted February 23, 2013 Report Share Posted February 23, 2013 My rear end is tight as a ducks, The poor Sherco's like a worn out rent boy!!! It's got bad very quickly, 3 Trials ago it had a little play now it's hanging, Will be changing in the next week or so. I can't believe the price of these things, I will be cleaning and lubing my rear end after every trial from now on. It does pay to keep your rear end clean, as otherwise it can become quite painfull! All joking aside, at the cost of the HK bearings and such, one might consider changing over to the "11 dogbone links with the plain bearings, or as some, just go with the bronze bushes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
srhirst1969 Posted February 23, 2013 Report Share Posted February 23, 2013 Sandiford off road are doing sets on Ebay for £62.50 plus £4 postage ive just ordered some as they seemed to be the cheapest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
srhirst1969 Posted February 23, 2013 Report Share Posted February 23, 2013 Can any one explain how to set up the shocker with the top of spring and the little screw on the bottom??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted February 24, 2013 Report Share Posted February 24, 2013 Can any one explain how to set up the shocker with the top of spring and the little screw on the bottom??? No, as we do not even know what year bike or what you are trying to accomplish.dot dot dot! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drifter_uk Posted February 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2013 Just ordered some allballs ones from motomerlin for under Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
si27 Posted February 27, 2013 Report Share Posted February 27, 2013 Doh!! Sorry it 290 sherco 2008 2t Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
si27 Posted February 27, 2013 Report Share Posted February 27, 2013 I want to set up the shocker for me so needed to know what does what on the shocker. I know you can twis the top bit round one way or the other but the little screw at the bottom of the shocker, which way does what for adjustment? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted February 28, 2013 Report Share Posted February 28, 2013 (edited) I want to set up the shocker for me so needed to know what does what on the shocker. I know you can twis the top bit round one way or the other but the little screw at the bottom of the shocker, which way does what for adjustment? There are only two adjustments available on the stock shock, spring preload and damping rate. The preload would be set using the threaded lock rings on the end of spring Static sag(weight of bike only on its wheels) would normally be 20-30 mm range depending upon rider weight and prefs. Little screw on bottom would be return damping speed and should have 15-20 detent clicks and travel 2-3 turns round. Set somewhere in mid range to start, and if you want it quicker for hopping and such back off a few clicke untill you get it where you desire. If your shock has a knob on top, it is not the stock Olle and has been changed for something else like TRP so adjustment is done on the knob and the screw is for the nitrogen charge port as I recall so don't mess with it! Edited February 28, 2013 by copemech Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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