jfc Posted February 20, 2013 Report Share Posted February 20, 2013 (edited) Any one got any thoughts on changing premix from full to semi and back again without causing any engine problems? Is full synthetic really as good compared to a good quality semi in the wet conditions we ride in? Edited February 20, 2013 by jfc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted February 21, 2013 Report Share Posted February 21, 2013 Never heard or had in issues switching between the two. It is the Castor based oils you do not want to mix with. You will find many opinions out there, yet I believe any high quality Semi or Full will work just fine in a trials application at rates of 80:1 barring high speed roadwork. My current opinion is that the full synth tends to basically burn a bit cleaner in the sense that the consumed product seems to build less hard carbon deposit in the exhaust and migration out the pipe is better, reducing those concerns of repacking and cleaning pipes and muff. The difference here may well vary with riding style and use, particularly just how much heat you keep in the muff to keep things flowing. An occasional good hard run does that for you and is recco for any of them, specially like you may have seen some bikes smoke like a chimney after a good long hillclimb. You can bet there is a lot of stuff in the pipe that needs a good blowout! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jfc Posted February 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2013 Thanks Copemech, do you think semi synthetic protects better against condensation when bikes are parked up for a period of time (month or six weeks)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted February 22, 2013 Report Share Posted February 22, 2013 Thanks Copemech, do you think semi synthetic protects better against condensation when bikes are parked up for a period of time (month or six weeks)? There could possibly be something to this, referred to as "oil run-off" which would be more an issue in a 4T motor on valvetrain issues and such, yet a lot would depend on the specific brand and their additives. In a modern 2T, there is not a lot in there to rust! With nikasil bore and such. Honestly I would be far more concerned about other poor maintenance practices and the fuel itself. Things like putting a bike away "wet" after washing and inducing water into air filter come to mind. After that, some may do a quick start and run after to INSURE that moisture gets sucked into the motor prior to shutdown and prolly washing some dirt through with it.. Along with that, we have our CRAP alcohol induced fuels which are hygroscopic and hold water. At least untill it falls out of solution and fouls the fuel system and carb prior to getting sucked up into the motor! You can bet you are actually paying for water and condensation at the pump in many cases, couse it just gets absorbed into the fuel and passed on to the user. Thats how things work! And we are talking still short term storage here! So there are things I would be more concerned about! Drain your fuel! Insure your tank and cans are clean! Insure your air filter is dry! And after saying all that, if you are still worried, bring the bike up to compression stroke before storing which will shut off the exhaust port to air and condensation, and use a good quality oil of your choice! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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