gazzaecowarrior Posted February 25, 2013 Report Share Posted February 25, 2013 Just bought a used fibreglass seat / tank unit for my Mont 123. I've only seen photos of it and am waiting for it to arrive but I know it needs a bit of work. Was just wondering what is the best way of preparing it for painting ? What grades sandpaper should I be using to take the old paint off etc and what sort of fibreglass fillers should I be using if it needs filling / repairing ? Any advice is appreciated as i've never worked with fibreglass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted February 26, 2013 Report Share Posted February 26, 2013 This gets VERY involved, depending upon what one needs to repair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnwayne22 Posted February 26, 2013 Report Share Posted February 26, 2013 Hi Gaz, Unless you are fabricating a full tank shroud, there is no need to get into fibre-glass lay up techniques. (however being a grp boat restorer its no big deal!) I've seen the tank shelter you have bought and it will be very easy to deal with. All you need is 120, 220 & 400 grit wet and dry, some flexable sanding blocks, a half decent orbital sander. (NOT grinder) some fibre glass filler and a little common sense. You can get it all from wilkinsons for less than a tenner! (apart from the sander) Have a look at my tank before and after, it was broken off in about 4 places so was my rear mudguard, it had a big hole drilled right through the 'm' logo! Will PM you how i did mine, as i don't want to give all my secrets away Ha Ha. J Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gazzaecowarrior Posted February 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2013 Hi Gaz, Unless you are fabricating a full tank shroud, there is no need to get into fibre-glass lay up techniques. (however being a grp boat restorer its no big deal!) I've seen the tank shelter you have bought and it will be very easy to deal with. All you need is 120, 220 & 400 grit wet and dry, some flexable sanding blocks, a half decent orbital sander. (NOT grinder) some fibre glass filler and a little common sense. You can get it all from wilkinsons for less than a tenner! (apart from the sander) Have a look at my tank before and after, it was broken off in about 4 places so was my rear mudguard, it had a big hole drilled right through the 'm' logo! Will PM you how i did mine, as i don't want to give all my secrets away Ha Ha. J Many thanks for that info fella. Time is something I have plenty of as Im recovering from a knee reconstruction. I havent got an orbital sander but Ive got an oscilating fine detail sander. Im very impressed with your tank. Looks amazing. What sort of mask did you use for all this sanding ? Don't suppose you could include a photo of the tank rubber that sits under the alloy tank. Looks like I may have to make something as the part seems unobtainable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnwayne22 Posted February 26, 2013 Report Share Posted February 26, 2013 No worries. Will have a sit down tomorow and mail you exactly how i did mine. As for the tank rubber, here's a couple of pics of mine.Its a bit hard to tell from the photos, but its around 10mm thick, you may have to experiment on your thickness slightly. The basic premise is, it has to be thick enough to trap the tank onto the frame cross member after firmly pressing it down. It should not move at all even if the bike was inverted. The other , equally important aspect, is for it not to push your tank shelter so high that it see-saws on the tank. It needs to be able to rest on the frame at the rear & be bolted on at the front without any undue stress,s from the tank underneath. Phew, that was a bit of a waffle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnwayne22 Posted February 26, 2013 Report Share Posted February 26, 2013 sorry about my photos being enormous, i don't know how to change them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gazzaecowarrior Posted February 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2013 sorry about my photos being enormous, i don't know how to change them. many thanks for those photos John. It looks nothing like what i expected it to look like. I thought it may look like the rubber 'U' shape tank holder that was common on the ty yams. Yours looks like a neopreme type material. Looks like my wetsuit may get cut to pieces then !!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gazzaecowarrior Posted February 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2013 Tank and seat arrived today. Tank looks in great condition and should polish up nicely. Doesnt the fuel cap have a thread ? Tank cover looks knackered to be honest. The front bit where the bolt should go has completly snapped off and is going to need a bit of work to build it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
triple_x Posted February 28, 2013 Report Share Posted February 28, 2013 (edited) Hi I have just repaired my early Cota tank and seat unit (see Early Cota Red Paint colours post for a picture). If the front end of the cover has broken then filler alone may not provide a permanent repair, for it is not strong enough unless you are just filling in/smoothing out surface blemishes. I used a Halfords Glass fibre repair kit and it was a doddle. Both front corner edges on the side panels were broken off, side fixing hoes had broke aways s well as the area around the the front fixing holes was missing. In order to shape the repair I made a form / mould from thin hardboard, covered with PVC sheet which was then covered with a thin smear silicone grease. This was then clamped in place. It was then simply the case of mixing the resin, applying it to the area to be rebuilt and laying the pre-cut, but over size matting on top, carefully but throughly worhing the the three layers of matting into the resin and when saturated paint another coat of resin on top to finish. This way there was minimal cleaning up/preparation prior to lacquering with three coats of plastic bumper primer and three coats of water based colour and a clear coats of fuel proof lacquer. Give it a go and you will be surprised what can be achieved for minimal cost and time. Good luck. Martin Edited February 28, 2013 by triple_x Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gazzaecowarrior Posted March 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2013 Hi I have just repaired my early Cota tank and seat unit (see Early Cota Red Paint colours post for a picture). If the front end of the cover has broken then filler alone may not provide a permanent repair, for it is not strong enough unless you are just filling in/smoothing out surface blemishes. I used a Halfords Glass fibre repair kit and it was a doddle. Both front corner edges on the side panels were broken off, side fixing hoes had broke aways s well as the area around the the front fixing holes was missing. In order to shape the repair I made a form / mould from thin hardboard, covered with PVC sheet which was then covered with a thin smear silicone grease. This was then clamped in place. It was then simply the case of mixing the resin, applying it to the area to be rebuilt and laying the pre-cut, but over size matting on top, carefully but throughly worhing the the three layers of matting into the resin and when saturated paint another coat of resin on top to finish. This way there was minimal cleaning up/preparation prior to lacquering with three coats of plastic bumper primer and three coats of water based colour and a clear coats of fuel proof lacquer. Give it a go and you will be surprised what can be achieved for minimal cost and time. Good luck. Martin Thanks for that martin. That is good info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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