tony27 Posted February 26, 2013 Report Share Posted February 26, 2013 I've got my TY250C coming apart for main bearings, seals & a rebore to 1st oversize & want to know is there any way to improve the action of the clutch while the engine is in bits. The basket & hub are in good shape but I found the clutch to have very narrow range of engagement almost like a lightswitch which is a problem when making full lock 180deg turns as found in modern clubmans sections Levers are domino trials & the cable is a new venhill, action is quite light so I don't see any problem there Any suggestions or is this how they are? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feetupfun Posted February 26, 2013 Report Share Posted February 26, 2013 No they are a very good clutch if working properly Things to check: edges of basket fingers need to be completely smooth not ridged steel plates need to have a rough finish (not polished smooth) cam surface smooth end of pushrod smooth newish friction plates (originals would have lost their frictional properties by now) suitable oil in good condition Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon v8 Posted February 26, 2013 Report Share Posted February 26, 2013 I also run Domino levers and Venhill cables on my TY250,but as David says if they are in good condition they are a very good clutch.I have lengthened the operating arm by about 15mm on mine and have fitted an angled cable seat to make the cable pull in line.This works very well and apart from a little freeing off when cold its perfect.I use Land Rover MTF94 oil in the gearbox,(I run a land Rover garage....) which keeps the box clean and does not change its properties when hot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ducman Posted February 26, 2013 Report Share Posted February 26, 2013 If you need Cluchfriction plates,Yamaha XJ 550-900 are the same as TY 250 Cheers:Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tony27 Posted March 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2013 (edited) The adjuster was wound way in & has a flat worn on the outside, looks like the ball that sits between the push rod & the top hat piece that pushes on the pressure plate was missing, does anyone know what size it should be? The cam is fairly flat with a small mark on 1 side which I'm picking will be out of the way when there is a ball back in the system taking up the slack & the adjuster won't be wound in as far. Not sure about the flat on the adjuster but I'll have a look to see if a new 1 is available Looks like TYtrials has the adjuster so I'll put another order in this week Edited March 19, 2013 by tony27 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feetupfun Posted March 19, 2013 Report Share Posted March 19, 2013 (edited) The ball is the same diameter as the rod whatever that is (5mm maybe). You can file or grind the face of the cam flat again, just make sure it ends up smooth where the rod end contacts. I've successfully built worn ones up with mild steel weld and machined the OD back to size when the pit in the cam was too deep. I don't think the cam face needs to be especially hard, but smooth is important Edited March 19, 2013 by feetupfun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tony27 Posted March 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2013 Looks like the ball will be quite a bit bigger than 5mm, the hole in the end of the mainshaft looks closer to 8-10mm. Will measure the hole size & fit the nearest size ball that I have, if it was too small the pushrod wouldn't make contact properly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tony27 Posted April 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2013 Have come across another puzzle when stripping the motor. The parts lists show a shim of .3/.4mm between the main bearing & seal on the clutch side of the crank, my guess is it spaces out the primary gear to a set amount. I didn't find 1 in there & wonder what effect not having 1 fitted will have Any thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tony27 Posted April 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2013 Have started assembling the motor but cant work out how the spring that sits around the actuator sits, the square end obviously fits over the lever but where does the round end go? My manual doesn't have a clear shot of how it should be Can anyone take me a photo of their bike to show the setup? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feetupfun Posted April 13, 2013 Report Share Posted April 13, 2013 This is a B model bottom end. I looked at an A model as well and it looked very similar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tony27 Posted April 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2013 Thanks David, I did suspect that was how it should sit but thought there had to have been something I was missing. Hopefully I should be able to finish putting the motor back together on thursday Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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