125 Sherco Spark Plug And Other Stupid Questions

[ar22]

1. whats the best plug for a 07 125, it currently has a BP5ES for the UK

2 Is there a spanner available small enough that will slacken the carb drain bolt when still on the bike

3. if the answer to 2 is no has anyone ever drilled and tapped the side of a carb bowl to allow the carb to be drained after washing.

4 whats the best way to keep water out of these wee bikes, its becoming a bit of a chore taking the back end of the bike off to get the carb off, I have siliconed the throttle cable joints, carb top, mudguard joint, ensure carb breathers are on etc.

And I suppose while asking are there any tips on how to improve these wee bikes in any way or are they just fine out of the box

many thanks

[wobblenorbed]

Answer to question number 2. ........Petrol floats on top of water so the drain has to be on the bottom in order to get all the water out !

[theshercorider]

As far as spark plugs go the one you got out is the common replacement and well up to the job. Iridium tipped or platinum tipped ones are slightly better but probably not worth the difference.

With 125s it is tight with the float bowl and the cases. Best tip is to undo the two jubilee clips then rotate the carb round and undo the bando bolt with a 14mm spanner to drain it.

As you have done you can go a bit mad with the silicon but with that design it is inevitable that some water/muck will get in.

[ar22]

As far as spark plugs go the one you got out is the common replacement and well up to the job. Iridium tipped or platinum tipped ones are slightly better but probably not worth the difference.

With 125s it is tight with the float bowl and the cases. Best tip is to undo the two jubilee clips then rotate the carb round and undo the bando bolt with a 14mm spanner to drain it.

As you have done you can go a bit mad with the silicon but with that design it is inevitable that some water/muck will get in.

cheers will try rotating trick, was trying not to disturb the carb as they are a terrible fit in the rubbers but if I have to.

will have make a airbox bung also

cheers

[copemech]

Right then lad, let me see if I can "splain" this to you for proper operation.

As the float chamber is a sealed container with one inlet and two vents(dellorto) these are the only normal access points for water entry.

First one must insure his fuel supply can is free of condensation being poured into the tank, second, the tank is clean, third, fuel is fresh and not been sitting to develop more water dropout from alcohol induced fuel.

Second, the open vents on the sides of the bowl. Long tubes on these are not wanted or neccessary. They must breath. Yet I typically use a short length of hose about 50mm primarily to act as a water diflector when using due caution still washing the bike and as to not push any water up into the bowl.

Third, even though not a normal water access point into the bowl under normal operation, one can flood the entire airbox and intake with water, washing dirt through the filter, etc.

When washing the bike, best to remove mudguard, pull filter, plug the bung and exhaust. Takes two minutes and keeps you from filling the airbox with sewer water!

Last tip. If it is muddy, duct tape up the airbix, mudguard junction under mud guard. Fab a drip flap just in front of it out of tape as well, and if really wet riding, run a strip of tape down the side of the mudguard / airbox junction.

There you go!

[theshercorider]

I just remembered when I had that design air box when cleaning the bike I would take off the mudguard and the little plastic air filter surround out then replace it but put a plastic bag over the air filter and then replace the surround. It did a good job of keeping water out of the air box while cleaning.

[ar22]

Right then lad, let me see if I can "splain" this to you for proper operation.

As the float chamber is a sealed container with one inlet and two vents(dellorto) these are the only normal access points for water entry.

First one must insure his fuel supply can is free of condensation being poured into the tank, second, the tank is clean, third, fuel is fresh and not been sitting to develop more water dropout from alcohol induced fuel.

Second, the open vents on the sides of the bowl. Long tubes on these are not wanted or neccessary. They must breath. Yet I typically use a short length of hose about 50mm primarily to act as a water diflector when using due caution still washing the bike and as to not push any water up into the bowl.

Third, even though not a normal water access point into the bowl under normal operation, one can flood the entire airbox and intake with water, washing dirt through the filter, etc.

When washing the bike, best to remove mudguard, pull filter, plug the bung and exhaust. Takes two minutes and keeps you from filling the airbox with sewer water!

Last tip. If it is muddy, duct tape up the airbix, mudguard junction under mud guard. Fab a drip flap just in front of it out of tape as well, and if really wet riding, run a strip of tape down the side of the mudguard / airbox junction.

There you go!

it also finds its way down the cable into the top of the slide then down into the bowl

presume there is no airbox bung for sale,

diy job it is

thanks for the replies

except for this minor irritant its a cracking bike for a 10 year old