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Gas Gas Oil Choices?


bennyb91
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Hi. I've purchased a gas gas 250 txt pro 2004.

Basically I've heard so many different types of oil that can be used.

People are saying, 10w40, 5w30, ATF Dex2 or Dex3.

Also I've heard don't use any synthetic based oil, I've checked my manual and it says to use 10w40. So i called my nearest trials garage and the recommend synthetic oil.

I'd like an answer to my confusion please.

I've bought ATF Dextron2.

Thankyou ben.

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Hi. I've purchased a gas gas 250 txt pro 2004.

Basically I've heard so many different types of oil that can be used.

People are saying, 10w40, 5w30, ATF Dex2 or Dex3.

Also I've heard don't use any synthetic based oil, I've checked my manual and it says to use 10w40. So i called my nearest trials garage and the recommend synthetic oil.

I'd like an answer to my confusion please.

I've bought ATF Dextron2.

Thankyou ben.

What you bought will work fine. Change it often.

Jon

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Ben,

Can I clarify and ask you what you plan to do (riding wise) on the 250? reason being is, for "trials use" only, you can play around with the oils, try different ones, and find out that the clutch "engagement" or how can I say, the "feel" of the clutch at the exact moment you start to make it make the bike "go" changes, some are slight, this is why people "like me" have put information up on this forum.

The manuals state (in a Cover their ass way, you know) that you should use 10w/30 or 40, depending on the years of the information printed... I have used several different oils in the past several (more than 10) years I have ridden a gasgas. Hell, even out old Bultaco Sherpa-T's we used different oil in the clutch area, than what the books told us, because the oil worked better at what we were doing.

New "formerly refered to as the *PRO* model, gasgas engine" only engine they sell on trials bikes now, other than the 4-stroke radoner? Is made so that the TRANSMISSION and CLUTCH oil, also lubes the 2 crank bearings on the "engine" itself. This is why we all (even JSE) says to change the inexpensive oil, whatever you use, instead of letting the filings and clutch materials build up in the oil, which lubes many bearings, but also the main crank bearings, which can be expensive (labor wise) if you take those out, and replace. Even if not expensive, it is a chore, so be warned we figure about 10/12 hours and the oil will be visually darkened by used clutch debris, if used as a trials bike, where we slip the clutch a lot, to ride...

If you plan to enduro or race or just high speed this bike like a trail rider, then my all means use the recommended oil and KEEP IT FULL TO SPECs, given by the book... so the crank and other surfaces keep cooled and lubricated at speeds that "we don't except on honestly a "limited basis, subject our bikes too." The arguement is kind of "any good clean oil, is better than whatever dirty oil you wish to run" stands, for us at low engine as well as trail speeds, which are 80% true of any given day of riding, when used as a "trials" bike. I drive my bike 1/2 mile down a pasture/wheatfield, to ride many days. I don't go 50mph, I just trudge along in high gear 1/4 throttle max... I like my Yamalube.

I AM NOT saying fill the cases up with STP, or WD40, I am saying within parameters of engine oil, or Automatic Transmission oil, which has been used by MANY top trials riders, and people that find out (like me), for many years, in most gasgas bikes...

Hope the point I tried to make, helps you out.

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Thats about how often I change mine and not had any trouble.

I have the same model as you and use ATF Dex3. Dex2 is still okay but must not use the 'GM Auto-trac II' (blue) oil !

Been alot of posts on this subject, The following is cut + pasted from the GG tech bulletin;

Transmission oil:

Recommend type: ATF DEXRON III

Alternatives:

NOTE: GASGAS Spain recommends only Dexron III automatic transmission oil at this time.

Oil type warning:

DO NOT USE #12378508 GM auto-trac II (blue) oil

Never use synthetic oil in the transmission~clutch. The synthetic oils are “stickier” and this adhesion tendency, when applied to the areas between the clutch plates contribute to excessive clutch drag. Some brands of synthetic oil will chemically react when mixed with water, (from creeks, rain, or waterpump seal leakage). This reaction alters the pH factor of the oil. This acidic condition accelerates corrosion of steel engine parts, and loosens the bond of the clutch fiber plate material. Please do not second-guess this information. We have twelve years of experience with the Herbringer/Adige brand clutch plate materials, and we are in direct contact with the technical department at GASGAS Spain.

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