jandyb Posted March 24, 2013 Report Share Posted March 24, 2013 Put a new plastic end silencer on the kids 2011 today, and it felt naturally to repack it the same time. Well I did manage to get it together OK I think, but wonder how You guys do it, :-) Thanks -Jan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr neutron Posted March 25, 2013 Report Share Posted March 25, 2013 (edited) Hi, Jan!!! This is kinda "timely" in that I just did this job to my 2010, and then had to do it again...... The packing that came out of my 2010 was the flat, mat-type of packing that was wrapped around the core, and then had a few strips of masking tape around it. I thought I'd simply try to match the factory job, and that would be alright. But I never could get it right with that type of packing. I tried repacking it with this mat-type packing 3 times, and it was always noticeably louder than it was before I attempted to "fix it"..... I'm guessing some of the problem is the thin, oval cross section shape of the silencer? I then happened to stumble across a post from a rider here called "pumpkin trials" that helped a whole bunch: 1. ring Dot or Jude or others at Gas Gas UK and order a bag of silentsport repackaging material (I skipped this step, and used FMF Premium 2-Stroke Packing)2. drill off the rivet heads and and remove the end can 3. remove the old packaging and baffle and dispose of the oily waste - bit messy be sure to note what way the baffle sits as you need to put it back in the same way - it is slighty bent at an angle at both ends 4. put the baffle back in and pack the silentsport in around the bafle tamping it down with a piece of wood making sure you get it in the thin gap at the sides of the baffle - from experience 2/3 of the bag of silentsport is a perfect amount for 1 silencer - keep whats left for the next time 5. squeeze the end can back on with a bit of material inside it and pop rivet back in place this is a proven method i have used over half a dozen times and i haven't heard of a better method as yet I bought a bag of the loose, shaggy type of packing from FMF. It took about 1/2 to 2/3 of the bag for my silencer. I packed it in with a piece of aluminum angle (structural L-shaped) I had laying around in the barn. I tried to get it along the sides well, and not too tight. It came out much better using this loose, stringy type of packing, and putting it in the way described by pumpkin trials. It's as quiet as it was when I bought the bike, which makes me happy.... FWIW, here's how Silentsport recommends packing a 2-stroke silencer with their packing (scroll down to the bottom of the page): http://www.silentspo...revpack_eng.pdf Jimmie Edited March 25, 2013 by mr neutron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jandyb Posted March 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2013 Yeah.. familiar with that on the up to 10 models. Now we got a 2011 model "in tha house" witch is got the newer type silencer with plastic end like this: What I did was mount the inner tube first. Then packed the aluminium part. Mounted the plastic part without the end tip and then filled the rest with packing material. Finally mounted the end. Well it worked somehow, but wonder if it is some clever way to do it. -Jan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jse Posted March 25, 2013 Report Share Posted March 25, 2013 Hi, Jan!!! This is kinda "timely" in that I just did this job to my 2010, and then had to do it again...... The packing that came out of my 2010 was the flat, mat-type of packing that was wrapped around the core, and then had a few strips of masking tape around it. I thought I'd simply try to match the factory job, and that would be alright. But I never could get it right with that type of packing. I tried repacking it with this mat-type packing 3 times, and it was always noticeably louder than it was before I attempted to "fix it"..... I'm guessing some of the problem is the thin, oval cross section shape of the silencer? I then happened to stumble across a post from a rider here called "pumpkin trials" that helped a whole bunch: I bought a bag of the loose, shaggy type of packing from FMF. It took about 1/2 to 2/3 of the bag for my silencer. I packed it in with a piece of aluminum angle (structural L-shaped) I had laying around in the barn. I tried to get it along the sides well, and not too tight. It came out much better using this loose, stringy type of packing, and putting it in the way described by pumpkin trials. It's as quiet as it was when I bought the bike, which makes me happy.... FWIW, here's how Silentsport recommends packing a 2-stroke silencer with their packing (scroll down to the bottom of the page): http://www.silentspo...revpack_eng.pdf Jimmie Jimmie, I've used the SilentSport type loose packing since it first came out. It's got to be the easiest to use for the long, oval silencers with tight clearances and as long as you don't pack it too tight, it works great. We used to be able to get the OEM formed, slip in packing but that hasn't been available for some time as far as I know. I've had very good luck with it. Jon 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr neutron Posted March 26, 2013 Report Share Posted March 26, 2013 Jimmie, I've used the SilentSport type loose packing since it first came out. It's got to be the easiest to use for the long, oval silencers with tight clearances and as long as you don't pack it too tight, it works great. We used to be able to get the OEM formed, slip in packing but that hasn't been available for some time as far as I know. I've had very good luck with it. Jon Thanks, Jon! I looked for a place to buy the Silentsport packing. I found out after I'd already bought the FMF packing that the Silentsport packing is available from MSR here in the States. It might be available from other places, but I couldn't find any. So, I got the FMF, which was about half the price of the Silentsport. The FMF stuff seems to work, and definitely much better than the flat, mat type I tried (several times....). Jan, Sorry; I forgot about the new style end cap. Did it come apart simply by drilling out rivets, like the "old style" that I have? It seems like that end cap would be more difficult to re-pack effectively...... Jimmie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jse Posted March 26, 2013 Report Share Posted March 26, 2013 Thanks, Jon! I looked for a place to buy the Silentsport packing. I found out after I'd already bought the FMF packing that the Silentsport packing is available from MSR here in the States. It might be available from other places, but I couldn't find any. So, I got the FMF, which was about half the price of the Silentsport. The FMF stuff seems to work, and definitely much better than the flat, mat type I tried (several times....). Jan, Sorry; I forgot about the new style end cap. Did it come apart simply by drilling out rivets, like the "old style" that I have? It seems like that end cap would be more difficult to re-pack effectively...... Jimmie Jimmie, I haven't messed much with the new endcaps but I think they use buttonhead capscrews and are fairly easy to re-pack with the SilentSport type packing. I just picked up some new FMF packing that is like the SS type and will try it next, probably before going up to the Ute Cup in August (high altitude 2-day endurance Trial, usually 8000-12,000+ ft) where the engine gets a real workout. If you need to run a spark arrestor and have the new plastic endcap, I would not recommend you use a SA with an outlet smaller than the ID of the muffler outlet pipe, under severe conditions (like the Ute Cup) it will tend to cause the aluminum endcap to overheat and melt the plastic (you never want to restrict exhaust at high altitude). We had a bunch of them melt at The Cup the first year they came out. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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