shipdamite Posted March 31, 2013 Report Share Posted March 31, 2013 hello all, I have just bought a ty 175 for twinshock trials with the local club. after some shed time and research time, the bike has the following faults: * autolube has been removed, leaving the autolube pipe unplugged and hanging off the carb * exhaust baffle had been squashed closed in a vice * a piece of sponge as an air filter * blow by on the piston when viewed from the exhaust port * although it did run ok, the bike refuses to idle unless the choke is on / idle screw removed and hole blocked with finger * what appeard to be play on brake side rear wheel bearing, but was play between brake drum and wheel. I have * plugged intake for autolube pipe * opened up baffle end and cleaned exhaust out with brake cleaner, then a blow torch. * temporarily used some oiled sump guard foam as a filter and cleaned out filter box, but will order up the correct filter and cage unless there is an alternative suggestion? * blow by - is any amount normal? the bike pulled ok when running and doesnt smoke much (at 50:1 premix) * guess the carb needs a rebuild kit to fix lean running issues? * having tried another brake drum, this appears to be normal as bearings are ok as far as I can tell? * with the oil tank gone, the area is covered by a triangle aluminium plate - what have you all done here? * the gearbox has atf in it; is this the best oil? Feeling a bit like I have bought a wrong' un at the moment! Thanks in advance for input. Andrew p.s the infamous kickstart and gearchange fixes have both been done (thats something at least) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy m Posted March 31, 2013 Report Share Posted March 31, 2013 Sounds like many of the TY's that are left, had a bit of a hard life, they do tend to get hammered in their later years if in the wrong hands. A good carb clean and set up may sort that out after you have the correct air filter fitted. Probably needs a set of rings or at most a rebore, if however it sounds okay and pulls well I'd leave it for now. The beauty of these is there are plenty of parts around and I think most parts are still available, get it running properly first then take it from there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lineaway Posted March 31, 2013 Report Share Posted March 31, 2013 The pilot circuit is plugged. That usually is the problem of no idle. The pilot jet needs cleaned and/or blown out. Should not need any parts $$ if it comes apart good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thats_a_five Posted April 1, 2013 Report Share Posted April 1, 2013 (edited) * what appeard to be play on brake side rear wheel bearing, but was play between brake drum and wheel." I am not sure what you mean by this. The brake drum is attached to the wheel by spokes. If there is play between them, you might be able to correct with proper wheel trueing. Or have the wheel restrung if hub and rim are OK. If you mean the brake plate has movement inside the drum, that is probably OK if it is not too bad. If it is excessive, check if there is a missing spacer between the brake plate and the swingarm. There should not be anything flopping around on the bike, well, except the rider! Cheers! Edited April 1, 2013 by thats_a_five Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shipdamite Posted April 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2013 (edited) Sounds like many of the TY's that are left, had a bit of a hard life, they do tend to get hammered in their later years if in the wrong hands. A good carb clean and set up may sort that out after you have the correct air filter fitted. Probably needs a set of rings or at most a rebore, if however it sounds okay and pulls well I'd leave it for now. The beauty of these is there are plenty of parts around and I think most parts are still available, get it running properly first then take it from there. Thank you - I am looking to order up a carb repair kit, air filter cage and air filter to get the beasty running right. The pilot circuit is plugged. That usually is the problem of no idle. The pilot jet needs cleaned and/or blown out. Should not need any parts $$ if it comes apart good. Thank you - I have cleaned out the carb a few times, but in anticipation of the repair kit, I will leave the carb bits soaking in petrol for a clean. * what appeard to be play on brake side rear wheel bearing, but was play between brake drum and wheel." I am not sure what you mean by this. The brake drum is attached to the wheel by spokes. If there is play between them, you might be able to correct with proper wheel trueing. Or have the wheel restrung if hub and rim are OK. If you mean the brake plate has movement inside the drum, that is probably OK if it is not too bad. If it is excessive, check if there is a missing spacer between the brake plate and the swingarm. Thank you - Yes, thats what I meant........ apologies for the lack of clarity on that one Thanks for your input! Edited April 1, 2013 by shipdamite Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shipdamite Posted April 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2013 good evening, well, the bike is running well! I called up the mighty 2 stroke genius boghopper350 who came over on his sumo'd ktm to help me out. The problem of bad running was fixed by cleaning the pilot (again [thanks lineaway]), renewing the o rings on the air and idle screws and realising that there was no gasket on the reed block assembly (this was achieved using grease just to get it running) I am so pleased that it is going .......... boghopper350 reassured me that the bike was good and that it will soon be up to scratch will little monetary outlay (but to keep in the back of my mind about rings / little end etc). so, the shopping list is currently: new air filter and cage carb rebuild kit (just in case) reed block gaskets fuel line and filter some atf cheers Andrew Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shipdamite Posted April 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2013 Hello, all of that stuff mentioned above has been done and its running like clockwork (albeit slightly rattley clockwork). After dropping the old atf out - which was really really really filthy - and putting in new, the clutch was dragging and I could not get neutral standing still. I did all of the adjustment/s and still no joy. Dumped the atf and used some semi synth 10w 40 halfrauds own (that was bought to do mrs shipdamites xl-a-saurus) and no change, so its not a lube issue as far as I can tell. All in all, it feels like two steps forward, 1 and 3/4's back. Given that no adjustments will help with the drag, do I work on the basis that the clutch is worn and needs renewing? cheers Andrew Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy.t Posted April 7, 2013 Report Share Posted April 7, 2013 Hi, strip the clutch down and check the clutch basket tangs, where the plates catch you will probably find small grooves, get a file and flatten the edge. The plates tend to stick in the grooves and that can cause drag, check clutch spring lengths also as odd sizes can cause uneven lift of the pressure plate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shipdamite Posted April 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2013 Hi Andy - thanks for that, much appreciated! cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shipdamite Posted April 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2013 (edited) new clutch plates on order and clutch basket needing filing (thanks Andy) cylinder ok with a deglaze, but piston needs renewing (thanks other Andy). My latest question is, how to run in the piston when I have limited space and can't run the bike on the road etc? 3 heat cycles (running the bike on a stand at various rpm's [not at idle]) with cooling inbetween each cycle? mineral oil at 50:1 then onto fully synthetic once run in? Thanks. Edited April 14, 2013 by shipdamite Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy.t Posted April 16, 2013 Report Share Posted April 16, 2013 Hi, I guess everyone has their own ways of running in. I normally run the bike on just over tickover for about 1 min then let it cool, do the same again for about 5 min give it a bit more revs and then stage the runs up to about 30 mins. Its always worked for me and if you do the classic trials that should be enough to give the engine an easy life anyway. With regards the oil I normally just use some semi synthetic, somebody has mentioned in the past that the full synthetic is not the best for an iron bore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shipdamite Posted April 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2013 Thanks for that Andy; much appreciated. Interested on your comment regarding the use of semi-synth on these motors; more google time! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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