trevbul1 Posted April 5, 2013 Report Share Posted April 5, 2013 Hi, Just acquired a clean '05 250 Pro, it's lovely but the clutch rattles in neutral. Oil level seemed a little low but topping up has made no difference. Gear change is a tad notchy, but I expect that. No slip or drag on the clutch at all, it works perfectly. I just thought I would ask if anyone has any ideas before I take the cover off. Whilst writing, who likes which oil, and how much of it? Thanks in advance for taking the trouble to reply. Cheers, Trevor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jandyb Posted April 5, 2013 Report Share Posted April 5, 2013 Dont worry. This is normal on theese bikes. Have fun!! :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zippy Posted April 5, 2013 Report Share Posted April 5, 2013 Team WGASA Member (and technically ipso facto big wig dude) Biffsgasgas made this little instructional video about that very noise you speak of. Now please bear in mind I do watch every video that is uploaded to the Team WGASA channel.................sometimes only once. This video would be a case of I watched it once.....long time ago. So, hope this helps! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trevbul1 Posted April 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2013 Absolutely brilliant, you guys, thank you so much for your input. Cheers, Trevor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jandyb Posted April 5, 2013 Report Share Posted April 5, 2013 Very good video! As for what oil, and how much.. I use the GRO Gear Extreme oil that my GasGas shop provides me. That said there are plenty of discussions on this board regarding oil type. Try a search.. About 450 ml should be enough to get the level on the upper half of the sight glass. -Jan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zippy Posted April 5, 2013 Report Share Posted April 5, 2013 I have heard a couple different amounts. A fellow GasGas rider says 375cc and that 400cc will leak out. So my advice is start with pouring in 375cc wait a couple minutes for it to all settle down, look in the sight glass if the level is not in the middle of the glass then add more oil in 25cc increments until it is in the middle of the sight glass. Then the trick will be to remember how much you put in for the next time you change the oil. As far as oil type............... there are entire threads devoted to that subject. Oil Quantity----- http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/44901-txt-pro-oil-quantity/ Oil discussion -- http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/44861-gas-gas-oil-choices/ Oil discussion -- http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/44309-oil-recommendation-from-motul/ Personally I am using GM AutoTrak II (blue stuff) because that is what previous owner was using and has had zero problems with it, I like how the clutch is working. (bike is a 2003 and kicking ass!) Also know others that have used it exclusively with no problems. So there is much science and opinion behind oil choice.......... good luck. (use what you like and sod the rest) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shipdamite Posted April 7, 2013 Report Share Posted April 7, 2013 I use 400ml of putoline light gear oil in my 2005 pro. spot on. I was worried about the infamous clutch rattle too - worry not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sting32 Posted April 9, 2013 Report Share Posted April 9, 2013 Problem is Shipdamite and others are saying (ML????) milli-liters. I'm quoting cc's I dont have any cross reference knowlege. PRO's Book says 400cc, most are aware, that have talked to anyone (for trials use) using a tiny bit less makes the clutch (maybe) drag less. I can't swear to you 400cc's makes THE CLUTCH DRAG ANY MORE than 375, since I have NEVER used 400cc's since I got the first PRO model in 2004... 370-375cc's, will put the oil at least right up close to the sight glass, you start the bike, or lean the bike over to the flywheel side, to help distribute oil to both halves of the engine (transmission and clutch area). you cannot hurry this process IMHO. Then, You check the sight glass, when bike is NOT on a center stand NOR on kickstand, but being held perfectly upright, (perpendicular to the level ground you are on) wheels on the ground! if you have half or more sightglass full of oil, you should be DONE. Heck, do it your way, if that ML, ml, or FLoz equals the same amount of cc's then your golden. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zippy Posted April 9, 2013 Report Share Posted April 9, 2013 (edited) According to http://www.onlinecon....com/volume.htm 1 ml (milliliter) = 1 cc (cubiccentimeter) Edited April 9, 2013 by zippy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sting32 Posted April 10, 2013 Report Share Posted April 10, 2013 Thanks Zippy, like I said, if they're equal (too hurried to google) then they should be ok... more oil might be better for some, surely? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zippy Posted April 10, 2013 Report Share Posted April 10, 2013 Thanks Zippy, like I said, if they're equal (too hurried to google) then they should be ok... more oil might be better for some, surely? I google because I have no life..................... You're welcome. just figured others could use the info on the conversion. I do like that conversion website a bit, has many different useful conversions. Although there is not one for converting lead into gold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jse Posted April 11, 2013 Report Share Posted April 11, 2013 I google because I have no life..................... You're welcome. just figured others could use the info on the conversion. I do like that conversion website a bit, has many different useful conversions. Although there is not one for converting lead into gold. My favorite free, easy to use conversion app is "Convert": http://joshmadison.com/convert-for-windows/ . I use it constantly. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sting32 Posted April 11, 2013 Report Share Posted April 11, 2013 Jon! We have a link to a neat sheet for the "pre pro" Gasgas trials bikes, seems it is on tech page or something... It is that PDF document, that folds up and you keep it in the toolbox, or ahem, we did). We need to make a new one for 02-13 pro. Get on that will you? (LOL!!!! joking) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shipdamite Posted April 12, 2013 Report Share Posted April 12, 2013 Problem is Shipdamite and others are saying (ML????) milli-liters. I'm quoting cc's I dont have any cross reference knowlege. PRO's Book says 400cc, most are aware, that have talked to anyone (for trials use) using a tiny bit less makes the clutch (maybe) drag less. I can't swear to you 400cc's makes THE CLUTCH DRAG ANY MORE than 375, since I have NEVER used 400cc's since I got the first PRO model in 2004... 370-375cc's, will put the oil at least right up close to the sight glass, you start the bike, or lean the bike over to the flywheel side, to help distribute oil to both halves of the engine (transmission and clutch area). you cannot hurry this process IMHO. Then, You check the sight glass, when bike is NOT on a center stand NOR on kickstand, but being held perfectly upright, (perpendicular to the level ground you are on) wheels on the ground! if you have half or more sightglass full of oil, you should be DONE. Heck, do it your way, if that ML, ml, or FLoz equals the same amount of cc's then your golden. Hi Sting I say 400 ml because my manual has that written in it in previous owner pencil next to a crossed out printed 550 ml .............. 400 ml brings it up to the middle of the sight glass. I take HUGE care checking oil levels as my 2009 ktm exc has split oil (engine + gearbox) and the oil levels are fussy to get right - I do do the whole level plumb cold and warm oil check thing because of wallet paranoia. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jse Posted April 14, 2013 Report Share Posted April 14, 2013 Jon! We have a link to a neat sheet for the "pre pro" Gasgas trials bikes, seems it is on tech page or something... It is that PDF document, that folds up and you keep it in the toolbox, or ahem, we did). We need to make a new one for 02-13 pro. Get on that will you? (LOL!!!! joking) You must mean that neat little paper my buddy, Billy DeGaris made up some time ago for the early bikes: http://mypage.direct.ca/b/billyd/ggman.html . I've got it in my files and refer to it often, very handy. I think Billy is younger than me, I'll have to con him into doing an updated one.... Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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