eddie1 Posted April 6, 2013 Report Share Posted April 6, 2013 I am rebuilding a 200 that I bought as a none runner. All is going well apart from the clutch pushrods and bearing do not seem long enough for the clutch to operate. Now I could make a new push rod that is slightly longer but first off I would like to check that the bits I have are the correct ones. Adding 2 additional bearings nearly makes it right but 3 is too much. Possible suspect is the very short rod that fits in the casing near the chain sprocket that the actuating arm pushes against Has any one a good drawing of the parts. I have the Bill pye exploded view of the engine but that is not really clear enough to establish that the parts I have are the correct length. Any help appreciated. thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbo Posted April 6, 2013 Report Share Posted April 6, 2013 (edited) there is also a small plunger with an o ring on it that goes in last , about 12mm long I guess. So to re cap there are 3 items ...... 1 the ball 2 the long rod 3 the small plunger with oring . Hope this helps. If you need dimensions let me know and I will measure mine. Edited April 6, 2013 by turbo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eddie1 Posted April 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2013 Thanks for replying. I have all the bits then. The plunger that I have is a bit shorter than 12mm so that might be the problem. Does the plunger stick out of the casing. That is does the adjuster screw on the actuating arm have to enter the casing to push against the plunger or is the plunger slightly proud of the casing. Also have you extended the actuating arm on yours to make the clutch lighter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
totalshell Posted April 6, 2013 Report Share Posted April 6, 2013 (edited) i was looking at mine today and although the clutch seems light enough the arm did seem to be asking to be lengthend..it looks like the chain link might do the trick? my real issue is the front brake cable is the one that goes via the mudguard stay and it has gone walkabout.. the cable can be sorted easy the stop might take some work though Edited April 6, 2013 by totalshell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbo Posted April 7, 2013 Report Share Posted April 7, 2013 my short plunger is flush with the casing , the movement needed to disengage is less than you think.Making the arm longer will increase the leverage therefore giving lighter feel at the lever on the bars. OR fit a hebo hydraulic kit to make it superb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eddie1 Posted April 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2013 Short plunger measured 7mm Rod measured 101mm Rod with the hat on 51.5mm Bearing 5mm. I'll make up a rod that puts the plunger level with the casing. Thanks Once the arm is extended does the cable holder screwed into the top of the engine need to be raised to suit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbo Posted April 8, 2013 Report Share Posted April 8, 2013 my short plunger (with an o ring on it) measures 17.8mm ,the long rod is same as yours 101mm , problem seems to be your short plunger if you say it is only 7 mm. Also would be best to raise the cable anchor on the engine a bit in order to keep things in line ,but not essential. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eddie1 Posted April 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2013 Great Info thanks for that. Makes sense to get a new plunger if I can. Wont even start to try and figure out why on a 30 year old none runner Just had frame.hubsand forks back from powder coating so plenty to go at for a while. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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