Gg 300 Pro Compression Reduction Or Flywheel Weight

[scottie_b205]

I am getting a 2010 300 Pro next week and would like to get either the low compresion head insert or the head spacer kit. Is there a differance between the two? Which one am I better off with?

Would I be better off with a flywheel weight instead of going the compression reducer route?

Thanks

[lee99780]

Hi.

Your easiest and cheapest option is the head spacer. I did it to mine and it was a doddle. It all depends what youre looking for.

[laser1]

With the two piece head on your bike, you can go either way. I would argue the insert is slightly easier to install and a bit more flexible, but not a big deal. Many folks LOVE the FWW on the 300 - but its a personal preference type of thing.

[sting32]

My 77 year old dad is using flywheel and low head insert, on his 12 raga 300. If you are intermediate (usa I guess) or below, flywheel weight IMHO is a great thing, but I know some master riders that like the weight too, so it is up to you and your wallet. I have taken the weight from the 2010 all the way up to the 2011 I have now. I got on the 2010, there is not much difference, but you can hear the bike sounds different, and IMHO it gives me .05 more seconds to get my clutch pulled, in trouble, and momentum, that I seem to need more of lately.

Oh I would definitely go insert! That spacer kit means you have 4 orings to try to hold in place to seal head to cylinder, where as insert has the normal 2... There is a oring inside where insert fits into head, but it stays there once you get the insert in place you know...

Once you go "weighted" you, you won't go back, IMHO. lol.

Edited April 9, 2013 by sting32

[thats_a_five]

Why do you feel you need to modify the bike when you don't even have it yet? What are you hoping to accomplish with these mods?

I hear people saying the lower compression insert or spacer are a big help for kick starting the 300, and also calms down it's aggreesiveness on throttle input

The flywheel weight will not help with the starting but will slow down the spin up and slow down of the motor and make it less likely to stall when riding at tick over.

Throttle response can also be lowered by going to the slow throttle tube if it has the fast tube.

[mr neutron]

I have the "low compression" insert in the head of my 2010 280 PRO, along with a Hebo flywheel weight. I like both of them on my bike.

I guess this falls within the relam of "personal philosophy", but I felt in the long run, the S3 low compression insert in the head would possibly be more reliable, or rather, less prone to leak past the o-rings. I can't really prove that it's more reliable than a head spacer, but it just seems that the way it's engineered, it would work more reliably. But I'm betting most folks with the spacers have little to no problems at all. It is the more expensive of the two compression lowering options (head spacer versus the S3 insert), so that may factor in a decision.......

I did this to make my bike easier to kick over, and maybe a little smoother acceleration & such. The 2 mods did this reasonably well, and now, I can run 92 octane (US) non-ethanol pump gas, without having to mix in some very expensive race gas.....

Jimmie

[huski]

Maybe a 250 would suit your needs,rather than making the 300 less powerful/aggressive.My 2011 250 has more than enough power/torque to deal with anything I've come across,and its less tiring to ride and easier to kick over than a 300.The 300 is a great bike,but more suited to top riders who can use the power to their advantage

[mung]

The 300 is a great motor for big people and/or high altitude.My skill level is about even with a TY 80 but being 250 pounds and riding from 5000 to 10000 feet I cannot imagine a better motor.

[sting32]

There is nothing wrong with lowering the compression. My father did that (as explained above) in KS, 1000ft Elevation or less, I'd have to guess 5% or less on power reduction, yeah I can feel it, my dad swears that he nor I can feel it (powdered butt syndrome there: if you dont know what that is, google it). It is easier to kick than my 2011 that he rode for a year before he got the 12 (talking 1 years worth of wear on engine for example).

Flywheel weight probably doesn't soften the power delivery hardly at all, nor ease the kick-starting, or anything IMHO, but when it is idling (without ANY OTHER CHANGES) you can hear it seems quieter per "combustion" or as I say, less drastic 'pop' ring sounding per combustion, than without. It seems to smooth the bike out slightly. Especially because I "slip the clutch" all the time, I can't say it slows the "attack" except for maybe "slightly," Hard for me to really tell, since attacks are done with clutch 98.7% of the time by me... maybe a PRO can tell us, but us humans, I dunno. If you dont use the clutch, maybe you could tell more....

It would help those that haven't figured out, to ride the clutch/slipping the clutch all the time, IMHO smooths the bike a little bit.

I can't argue strongly enough, I have had a 125cc 06 pro (my son's) that thing was hard to lift front wheels with my on it (220-250 lb riders), we put a 225 kit, that short stroke SOB would wind to the moon soo quick, I felt almost scared of it. I have always thought that the 280's (according to my Master Friends) rev quicker than 300's when both are STOCK. The 300 seems to have the nicest setup, with lots of bottom end torque, and taking some of the compression away seems to mellow the RAGA dad has, to just right. We're a little old school in the reguard, that everything we ever competed on, had 325cc's (sherpa-t) and I ABSOLUTELY hate it when a bike "stalls" because I was too out of shape to pull clutch or something, like the little pissy sized cc bikes always do.

I have watched yet again, a guy get really hurt, riding along a hill in a section, because he thought the 200 (170cc) bike was the way to go... and it plunked and died instead of kept going when rear wheel hit a less than fist sized rock in the line he was riding... Nothing beats low end torque, IMHO.

[scottie_b205]

I got what I think is a good deal on a basically brand new used bike. The stock tires still have the wiskers on them. I have read the replys, older post, and got some thoughts from a local GG dealer. I am going to go with the flywheel weight and slow throttle for now. If I do go the lower compression route I will go with the insert. I didn't consider the extra set of o-rings when I made the post.

Thanks for the replys.

[sting32]

Scottie,

Keep in touch man. You been riding trials before this, I assume? too bad you are so far east, lol.

[squid_on_a_300]

In my opinion...

Buy it and ride it...Don’t make any changes until you ride it for a while. I read all the same things about the 300 before I bought mine and was concerned about having too much power.. So even before I got on the bike I was thinking slow throttle, head spacer, flywheel weight....I found I like the bike just the way it is without any mods. Tons of torque, power delivery is smooth. You’ll figure out how to kick it over (pretty fustrating at first) and once you get that technique down you may be happy with the bike just the way it is.

[sting32]

Good post Squid. Every bike takes a few seconds for experienced riders to get used to, so give yourself time to just get used to the bike...

[nigel dabster]

What standard do you ride to?

I had a 300 and as the experts all ride with the flywheel weight i think its your first step.

i would avoid the slow throttle if you need that you probably have the wrong bike in my opinion.

I put the boysens in for smoothness on the bottom and the low comp head which was all helpful.

You also need someone who can set up a kehin as the can be a bit "finicky" and with your funny gas it might need a jet or slide or a clip moving about?

[mung]

If you want a motor with more torque you need to add compression.It will be snappier but you will have more torque.When you lower compression you reduce power making it feel smoother. Another way to smooth the bottom end power is to run slightly rich jetting on the pilot jet.This works very well at altitude because there is less air pressure to pull fuel through pilot jet so you actually need a bigger jet to compensate. On my 95 JT 350 stock pilot jet was 36. At my altitude [5-10 thousand feet] a 42 worked perfect.