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Beta Rev 3 Rear Shock Bolt


gazzaecowarrior
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Quick fix is to buy a second hand swinger on ebay until you get it out and then sell your old one to re coup your costs. Don't risk knackering your current arm as it will be worthless if damaged.

A pukka engineering workshop will have it out one way or another just don't use a meat head or cowboy as your swingarm will be toast!

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I have fixed one of these at home. bought a Dremel and used it in the drill at home. got enough bolt head metal out until finally the bolt turned. the thread was not seized at all, just the bolt head fused to the alloy swingarm....pretty easy, just be patient, remove a little at a time being careful not to go too far into the alloy....

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  • 2 years later...

I've got the same problem, but worse!  I just picked up a 2002 rev 3, (shock was never off) and I was sending the suspension out to be serviced and found the bolt was seized, I tried heat to no avail, tried shocking it with a hammer and then tried an impact wrench with a 8mm hex bit and sure enough the bit snapped off in the bolt inside the swingarm...gonna be a PIA to get that out...any suggestions?

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update, I got the hex bit out of the bolt, but I'm back to the same problem....how to get that damn bolt out of the swingarm.

 

it's stuck like nothing I've ever seen before, got a good snap-on 8mm hex bit and 2' breaker bar and it wouldn't budge...I was scared of snapping another bit off and stopped, it even twisted the snap-on bit... tried soaking it in Pb BLASTER, heating around the head of the bolt, back of the nut.. shocking it with hammer...impact wrench......nothings working...

 

looking for any suggestions to get that sucker out

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so if I understand post #17, he bought a dremel bit and used it in a drill to grind away ~ 1/2 of the bolt head, but still left enough material to use a 8mm hex driver in the bot to remove it.  if the bolt head is the same as the top bolt, it's probably ~ 15mm in height so there would be enough material to do this.... I just worry about not having enough left for a good bite with the hex bit and "rounding" out the hex hole.... but I guess it worked for him.....

 

wondering what kind of bit he used?

Edited by katoom400
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I used a cylinder shape dremel at low speed....had to drill into the bolt first to the depth of the shank/head of the seized bolt (use new bolt to measure) then the dremel is inserted to do its work (slowly). Grind it out until it's almost a thin layer of cylindrical steel left so it collapses upon itself. can't recall what I did after that but the remaining threaded bolt wasn't seized, it just spun out. No need for engineering shop. if you've got a vice with some soft jaws, a quality sharp drill set, dremel, lubricant, and of course a variable speed power drill, the only other things required are patience and steady hands. oh and compressed air is kind of important to keep clearing the swarf out...

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Thanks for the replies.  I've been busy with some other stuff this week and haven't had time to dig into this yet.  some searching found that the best penetrant for seized bolts is a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone.  I saw a chart from a magazine article that it was 4 X as effective as liquid wrench.  So I'm going to try soaking it for a week in this mixture first.

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